thoughts on sprocket changes to rev lower at speed - Yamaha R3 Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 11-20-2016, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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thoughts on sprocket changes to rev lower at speed

Hi everyone.
at the moment I am doing a bit of highway riding. at 110km Im doing like 7,000 rpm. which is about 75% of max revs. this is too high for fuel economy and possible harsh on the engine.

I worked out a gearing chart. that if I got a 15T (+1 over stock) front and a 41T rear (-3 from stock) I will get an 11% drop in RPM at the same speed
has anyone done that setup wise. and what did they think about the acceleration. did it still feel good. or does it become a marshmellow at the lights?
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post #2 of 21 Old 11-20-2016, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jbk View Post
Hi everyone.
at the moment I am doing a bit of highway riding. at 110km Im doing like 7,000 rpm. which is about 75% of max revs. this is too high for fuel economy and possible harsh on the engine.

I worked out a gearing chart. that if I got a 15T (+1 over stock) front and a 41T rear (-3 from stock) I will get an 11% drop in RPM at the same speed
has anyone done that setup wise. and what did they think about the acceleration. did it still feel good. or does it become a marshmellow at the lights?

I've been thinking about doing the same thing since 1st gear is so low. Ideally, IF you added +1 to the front and -1 to the rear, chain length (112 links) stays the same. Check out: http://sprocketcalculator.com/ to see what I mean. R3 stock is: F: 14T/R: 43T. Yesterday, I just so happened to have talked with the parts counter people at my local Yamaha dealership about the same thing and he said he would NOT exceed more than one tooth in the front BUT it would be BETTER to go down in the rear because of the speedometer 'reading' change due to the changing of sprocket size. Of course, MOST of your rpm/speed change would result from the FRONT sprocket change. Keep me posted IF you do go that route.

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post #3 of 21 Old 11-21-2016, 04:39 AM
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I bought a -2 rear sprocket, but never put it on. I fear the bike would be a real dog, so I just left the stock gearing alone.
1st gear is too low, but they do that to bikes with small engines to help them take-off quicker. If you try it, let me know how it feels. I'll bet it will be noticeably more sluggish in terms of acceleration. The R3 is really slow as it is. The little engine doesn't mind buzzing along at 7k-8k on the freeway. It's made to do that.
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post #4 of 21 Old 11-21-2016, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CBRpilot View Post
I bought a -2 rear sprocket, but never put it on. I fear the bike would be a real dog, so I just left the stock gearing alone.
1st gear is too low, but they do that to bikes with small engines to help them take-off quicker. If you try it, let me know how it feels. I'll bet it will be noticeably more sluggish in terms of acceleration. The R3 is really slow as it is. The little engine doesn't mind buzzing along at 7k-8k on the freeway. It's made to do that.

i DO agree with you there, the R3 is a dog with dealing with horsepower compared to your CBR. I don't see much of an effect with going -2 in the rear, getting only about 4.5 mileage improvement. I'm a real mpg 'freak', the more the better. IF the performance suffers TOO MUCH, back to the original setup! I may be tempted to just change the drive sprocket (+1) and then go from there because it is the easier to change. (Besides it's only about $30-40 to purchase the gear)

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post #5 of 21 Old 11-21-2016, 10:43 PM
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I only paid $35 for the rear sprocket. I don't think the front is easier to change. They are both about the same for me.
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post #6 of 21 Old 11-22-2016, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CBRpilot View Post
I only paid $35 for the rear sprocket. I don't think the front is easier to change. They are both about the same for me.

Thanks for the input ... changing the front WOULD mess up the speedo MORE!

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post #7 of 21 Old 11-22-2016, 01:41 PM
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Maybe I don't understand how you guys ride but on the R3 I'm almost always between 10k and redline while I commute. I'm also in any gear between 4th and 6th on the interstate. I also only get 35MPG's but it's significantly more than my truck that gets 26.
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post #8 of 21 Old 11-22-2016, 02:37 PM
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Maybe I don't understand how you guys ride but on the R3 I'm almost always between 10k and redline while I commute. I'm also in any gear between 4th and 6th on the interstate. I also only get 35MPG's but it's significantly more than my truck that gets 26.

Sounds like a problem to me! Ha Ha Ha
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post #9 of 21 Old 11-23-2016, 04:31 AM
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I do most of my commuting at 5-7K Rpm depending on what speed I need to be doing. Highway speeds in Australia are typically 110 km/h which is about 7000rpm in 6th gear.

The stock gearing is fine for commuting to be honest, my fuel efficiency averages at about 3.7 or 3.8 L/100km and I ride like a retard half the time. You can probably easily get 3.5 or under.
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post #10 of 21 Old 11-23-2016, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HarisonH View Post
I do most of my commuting at 5-7K Rpm depending on what speed I need to be doing. Highway speeds in Australia are typically 110 km/h which is about 7000rpm in 6th gear.

The stock gearing is fine for commuting to be honest, my fuel efficiency averages at about 3.7 or 3.8 L/100km and I ride like a retard half the time. You can probably easily get 3.5 or under.
I think the stock gearing is fine in general as well. Most of the suburban autoroutes I ride also 110-120km/h, occasionally 130 to overtake and the 7-8k range is fine. And at the top end, it's just right for the straightaway at the track so I can max out the top speed without needing a ton of space to do so.

As you can see from my signature, I usually hover 3,1-3,5 l/100km, although the change in seasons and fuel has increased consumption slightly.
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