Engine cut out - Page 7 - Yamaha R3 Forum
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post #61 of 71 Old 02-12-2017, 07:50 AM
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That's just really weird. Good luck and post back what you find out!


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post #62 of 71 Old 02-12-2017, 01:54 PM
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Engine cut out

Ok, I take back what I posted a few months ago the problem is actually the ignition itself dealer will replace it along with the fuel tank lock and the one for storage.


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Last edited by T3GGR; 02-13-2017 at 01:46 PM.
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post #63 of 71 Old 02-15-2017, 02:36 PM
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That's just really weird. Good luck and post back what you find out!
I dropped by and described the issue to a tech. He seemed confident he could resolve the issue. Brought the bike in yesterday, and he starts heehawing that I'm blipping the throttle 3-500 rpms, and I'm trying to explain to him that it's just one of the manifestations of whatever the root cause is. Anyway, he said he'd have a look and contact Yamaha, but if they couldn't resolve it, then I'm on the hook for $90 diagnostic fee.

Oh yeah, we discovered a small amount of coolant has blown out the top of the radiator cap.

If they can't fix it, here's my planned diy list: plugs, wires, injectors, thermostat, water temp sensor, tps, maf, idle air adjustment, throttle body sync. I don't really want to invest more $$$/time into pcv + dyno shop tuning just to get the bike to not die at a stop light.

I wish I knew if this problem started before or after the recall work was done.

Last edited by xorbe; 02-15-2017 at 02:51 PM. Reason: typo
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post #64 of 71 Old 03-01-2017, 05:36 PM
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The tech "adjusted the throttle cable" to "remove intake air bubbles" ... he off-the-record hinted at getting a full system + pcv + tune, to actually fix the issue ("too lean and idle too low"). Or perhaps the start-up auto-choke feature is malfunctioning. He said the throttle body sync was good.

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post #65 of 71 Old 03-03-2017, 05:36 PM
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Okay, everything in the service manual related to fuel/air seems like a dead end without the Yamaha diagnostic tool. So, I took the air filter out, let it idle until the cooling fan cycled a couple times, jiggled the throttle while listening right there by the air intake. Every time it dies, there's a distinct loud PSHHT sound from the intake. That's an intake backfire, isn't it?

My google-fu found another off-idle stumble/die thread for a different Yamaha motorcycle, and the solution sounds like the two prohibited air bypass screws: "Airscrew adjustment to fix the off-idle stumble that some have complained about, especially in the California model."

So, I adjusted the throttle stop to keep the throttle open slightly more, then adjusted the 2 air bypass screws about 1/4 turn clockwise each. This seems to have greatly reduced the off-idle cough, but it still died once. =/ Will try the procedure once more, as I only adjusted by 1/3 of the poster's recommendation.

edit: I think it's actually two problems. The off-idle cough seems cured. But the instant 0 rpm / loud intake event remains. Maybe switching to premium gas would help fight the hot'n'lean condition. [Premium didn't help anything.]

Last edited by xorbe; 03-04-2017 at 03:33 PM.
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post #66 of 71 Old 03-04-2017, 03:03 PM
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It actually sounds like you have a vacuum leak and a throttle body sync problem. There is a thread somewhere on the R6 forums about how to sync the throttle bodies yourself. If you can fix that, you might fix your stall issue but to me the PSHHT sound could be a vacuum line issue.


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post #67 of 71 Old 03-06-2017, 10:26 PM
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It actually sounds like you have a vacuum leak and a throttle body sync problem. There is a thread somewhere on the R6 forums about how to sync the throttle bodies yourself. If you can fix that, you might fix your stall issue but to me the PSHHT sound could be a vacuum line issue.
Well, the stall is somewhat intermittent. I will try some carb cleaner to look for a leak, but not expecting anything from that. The problem is clearly worse the warmer the bike gets, and when the cooling fan kicks on and starts pumping hot air around my legs and bike's intake, then it is at its worst. That's why I think it's afr. Maybe unique to California model ecu.

I did a tb sync on my Ninja 250 before, so I'll try to do that next weekend + inspect/replace spark plugs. Do you know if the R3 has a thermowax setup for cold starts, or is it all electronic via isc? If thermowax unit fails, then the throttle body will be stuck in cold mode all the time. Tech claimed it could be that, I forgot about that one. I don't think that's it, b/c if I start the bike and immediately ride off, it also coughs while cold, bucking me hard.

Last edited by xorbe; 03-06-2017 at 10:32 PM.
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post #68 of 71 Old 03-07-2017, 06:15 AM
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To be honest, I don't know much about the bike at all - I'm just drawing theory from basic engine knowledge. If we think about it logically - engine stalling while warm, and if you bump the idle, it doesn't do it. So that leads to the conclusion that there is something about the fuelling.

Maybe your ECU needs to be reflashed? What if its as simple as the ECU not handling the idle correctly? Grasping at straws here.


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post #69 of 71 Old 03-13-2017, 12:11 AM
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To be honest, I don't know much about the bike at all - I'm just drawing theory from basic engine knowledge. If we think about it logically - engine stalling while warm, and if you bump the idle, it doesn't do it. So that leads to the conclusion that there is something about the fuelling.

Maybe your ECU needs to be reflashed? What if its as simple as the ECU not handling the idle correctly? Grasping at straws here.
Today I entirely closed the idle air bypass screws (for the record, that was approx 1.35 turns clockwise), and set the idle to 1500 with just the throttle stop adjustment. Rode the bike 2 hours without any issues, and tried like crazy to get it to stumble at every stop light. Now, it's not 100F in summer yet, but this is clearly a tremendous improvement. I need to check cold start tomorrow (though "cold" is relative at 50F overnight lol).

If I want to play with a PCV, then I have to get someone outside of CA to buy and send to me indirectly, they are illegal here technically.

Last edited by xorbe; 03-13-2017 at 02:10 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #70 of 71 Old 03-13-2017, 06:54 AM
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So what's the idle air bypass for anyways? I'm guessing it's an emissions thing? It sounds like you've licked the problem with a workaround but clearly that isn't the way the bike is supposed to be setup. Will be interesting to see what happens though.


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