Lets talk engine oil....! - Yamaha R3 Forum
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post #1 of 140 Old 04-05-2015, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Lets talk engine oil....!

Just wondering what some of you guys around here run of engine oil in your motorcycles. Lets break it down into different types from brand name to cost effectiveness Mobile 1 vs Castrol ect cost per pint and what you prefer as far as personal preference.

5w-40
10w-40
20w-40
20w-50

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post #2 of 140 Old 04-06-2015, 01:07 AM
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Yamalube SAE 10w40 for me. I'm sure it's overpriced. I don't know enough about oil to discuss it, so I follow the owners manual.
If I found some Honda SAE 10w40 on sale, I'd probably throw it in there.


I'm the same with 2-stroke oil in my dirtbike. I stay away from the autozone lawnmower/outboard motorboat 2 stroke oil and pay the big bucks at the dealerships for the motocross racing 2-stroke claiming to protect your powervalves. I own a 1990 KDX200 and havnt had a chewed up powervalve yet!
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post #3 of 140 Old 04-06-2015, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by John View Post
Yamalube SAE 10w40 for me. I'm sure it's overpriced. I don't know enough about oil to discuss it, so I follow the owners manual.
If I found some Honda SAE 10w40 on sale, I'd probably throw it in there.


I'm the same with 2-stroke oil in my dirtbike. I stay away from the autozone lawnmower/outboard motorboat 2 stroke oil and pay the big bucks at the dealerships for the motocross racing 2-stroke claiming to protect your powervalves. I own a 1990 KDX200 and havnt had a chewed up powervalve yet!
Well when it comes to engine oil all oil is the same in terms of it coming from the same base stock. Oil companys like Mobile Castrol and AMS Oil all buy their oil form the same company. Oil is classified by weight first which is identified by the W after 10w-40. 10w is a oils rate of flow in weather conditions close to freezing 32 degress so a 5w-40 oil will flow faster in freezing conditions better then a 10w-40 oil. The number at the end such as 40 in 10w-40 is a oils resistance to heat and thermal break down for example a 10w-30 oil is weaker and will break down burn off alot faaster in hot weather conditions easyier then a 10w-40 which will handle the same hot conditions with ease. If you have any other questions about oil just ask I can suggest somethings to help you save money and even better improve mpg and protection of your engine depending on how and where you ride

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post #4 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 01:35 AM
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Ignore the recommended brand. They always want you to use theirs... Chart is for people who needs it since we all live in different tropical. People like to use these brand Royal Purple, Shell, and Mobil for mototcycle oil (I personally love redline oil product as I used to drag race.):

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post #5 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 07:31 AM
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1- The R3 is water cooled, so temperature wise there's no reason to go with W40. W30 is more than enough.

If the engine oil also lubricates the clutch, you'll have to go with W40. No other way around, unless it's motorcycle W30.

The first letter really depends on ambient temperature.
If you're in FL, where the weather doesn't drop below 75F, 10W40 is good enough.
If you are living in an area where the temps are just above freezing point, 10W40 may make the bike harder to start, or idle when cold.
You should get 5W40, or 5W30 if it has a dry clutch.

There's no clear guide whether it's better to use thinner oil during engine break in, or not.
But one thing is pretty common, around 25-35k miles you should think of getting heavier oils, like 10W40, and 15w40 around 50k miles, not when it's new.


Lower numbers don't necessarily mean lower oil life, or worse lubrication.
It just means for engines running lower operating temperatures.
It also means better suited for lower free play/ tighter tolerances (Aka newer engines).
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post #6 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 10:04 AM
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I used Motul full synthetic E-100 10w40 in my GSX-R750 at $16.00 a quart, then saw a deal at Cycle Gear on Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w40 at $10.00 per quart. No noticable difference in performance (street only). I think for street use, there wouldn't be any advantage for the higher priced oil.

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post #7 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 12:52 PM
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Whats a forum without an oil thread? haha


Owners manual tells you what to use.
New oil is best, changed often.
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post #8 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EcoRider View Post
1- The R3 is water cooled, so temperature wise there's no reason to go with W40. W30 is more than enough.

If the engine oil also lubricates the clutch, you'll have to go with W40. No other way around, unless it's motorcycle W30.

The first letter really depends on ambient temperature.
If you're in FL, where the weather doesn't drop below 75F, 10W40 is good enough.
If you are living in an area where the temps are just above freezing point, 10W40 may make the bike harder to start, or idle when cold.
You should get 5W40, or 5W30 if it has a dry clutch.

There's no clear guide whether it's better to use thinner oil during engine break in, or not.
But one thing is pretty common, around 25-35k miles you should think of getting heavier oils, like 10W40, and 15w40 around 50k miles, not when it's new.


Lower numbers don't necessarily mean lower oil life, or worse lubrication.
It just means for engines running lower operating temperatures.
It also means better suited for lower free play/ tighter tolerances (Aka newer engines).
good point you hit the nail right on the head
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post #9 of 140 Old 04-22-2015, 11:56 PM
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My .02 .... Oil is Oil.

Whose bottle it comes in is your choice, the high end brands you're paying for marketing and additives that will likely have zero benefit to your engine if you follow the manufactures recommendations for types and duration.

If you stick with the recommended viscosity and API Standard rating for the oil in your engine, unless you're in abnormal operating temperatures (>40 or <-10) thats all the matters.

If you're lazy/cant change it at recommended intervals, use synthetic (longer life before it begins breaking down). Change it and your filter at ALL manufacturer recommended intervals (or sooner if you wish) as well as after being stored for long periods of time and you'll maximize the potential life of your engine.

If your engine has leaks you'll have to change your oil MORE often. Leaks mean your oil is not only escaping the engine but is being contaminated (water, etc getting in) at the same time

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post #10 of 140 Old 04-23-2015, 12:22 AM
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I'll use Rotella T6 full synthetic starting with my first oil change. I use it in all my bikes. It has the JASO MA rating and while it doesn't have a picture of a motorcycle on the jug, it's the right stuff. $21 a gallon at Walmart, less with rebates and sales. The oil filter looks like the same filter that fits a bunch of different bikes. I have some for my FZ07...Denso 5GH-13440-50 which cross references with the Fram PH6017A and a bunch of other oil filters. The oil plug takes a 12 mm socket so I don't know if my FZ07washers will fit the plug yet since that oil plug takes a 17 mm socket. I've been all through the owner's manual looking for the part no. for the oil filter, but if it's there, I can't find it.
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