Doc-Ram 2016 R3 race build - Page 13 - Yamaha R3 Forum
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post #121 of 158 Old 02-12-2017, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VULGR View Post
Lifted the rear with the use of aftermarket rear suspension
Correct. I have an Ohlins rear shock that has adjustable ride height in 10mm range.

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post #122 of 158 Old 02-12-2017, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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wheels swapped





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post #123 of 158 Old 02-20-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Got bike ready over this weekend. Also mounted some new LED shop lights.


Woodcraft axle sliders installed. Now I have to drill holes in the slider spindle for my safety wiring to be completely legal







Couple new sponsor decals



All ready for next track outing (except brake bleeding)



Shop lights


Pic of garage with current steed

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post #124 of 158 Old 02-27-2017, 02:20 PM
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looking forward to seeing how you end up drilling those axle slider splindles

sounds like we have the same safety wire requirements, club requires the axle nut bolts to be drilled and wired

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post #125 of 158 Old 02-27-2017, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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looking forward to seeing how you end up drilling those axle slider splindles

sounds like we have the same safety wire requirements, club requires the axle nut bolts to be drilled and wired
Will call Woodcraft to hear their opinion on this, after all, they make these for racers, lol

Maybe they can make predrilled race versions...
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post #126 of 158 Old 02-27-2017, 07:09 PM
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looking forward to seeing how you end up drilling those axle slider splindles

sounds like we have the same safety wire requirements, club requires the axle nut bolts to be drilled and wired
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Will call Woodcraft to hear their opinion on this, after all, they make these for racers, lol

Maybe they can make predrilled race versions...
I hate some of those rules. MRA has some of the strictest rules I've seen so far. I get the ones that deal with fluids and some of the braking components perhaps, but the rest are just ridiculous. Axles?? When's the last time you saw someone's axle coming off?? Pretty much all the bikes I've seen already have methods of safety built-in. First you torque the axle in, that's the most important thing. Then there are the pinch bolts which squeeze it hard enough to where the axle can't move. The chance for all of that to come loose is very small. Maybe if you tighten everything by hand. But even then, simply safety-wiring the pinch bolts should be enough. It would make it impossible for the axle to come loose.

On my old 1198, which has 2 pinch bolts on either side, one time I apparently didn't tighten them correctly and after some time I found 2 of them were loose that you could spin them off by hand and 1 bolt was completely gone. Yet the axle was still perfectly intact, tight, and in the correct spot. No problems. Whoever made some of those rules are very paranoid people who don't understand how fasteners and mechanical things work. I've also seen some who don't allow those clips, like the one seen in Doc's picture on the rear. Why?? They do the same job as a piece of wire! Often times they're ever stronger depending on the gage you use.

I've also had an oil filter work its way loose once which WAS safety-wired. So just because you see some twisted wires on someone's bike is definitely not a means to an end and should assume that all is well.

Sorry, rant over! I like CCS. They only require oil drain plug, oil filter, oil fill plug, and possibly the coolant/water pump drain plug. Can't remember for sure on that last one, but I did it anyway just cuz. Anything on top of that is optional.

2007 ZZR600 (street bike)
2010 1198 (race bike, parted out across the country)
2006 CBR600 (street/track, sold)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
2015 R3 (project bike, future race bike hopefully)

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post #127 of 158 Old 03-07-2017, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Last weekend I was at Buttonwillow on Friday and also yesterday/Monday 3/6.

Friday: Lets Ride Trackdays
Got back to my practice pace from last AFM round of 2016....2:14s consistent, that felt pretty darn good. In the afternoon, I hit an electrical glitch and lost all power. Not wanting to troubleshoot at the track, I decided to pack it and call it a day.

Later that weekend, I figured out it was the connector coming from the motion pro kill switch and the #Woodcrafttechnologies key eliminator. Fixed that and now no issues.

Monday: Yamaha Champions Riding school - Champday (totally worth the $$)
Worked with Ken Hill on improving my brake pressure and eyes/vision. Helped a ton. By mid afternoon, I was actually past my race best times.....without even trying to go fast. Everything seemed a bit slower and I had more time on the bike, even at faster pace than my races.

I broke into low 2:09's, thats ~5s faster than Friday and ~1s faster than my race PR

I ran into another problem....the chain came off the sprocket going into cotton corners. I ordered a new chain and a 55teeth rear sprocket from Gregg #SpearsRacing . I was running out of revs going into the bus stop in 5th, so figured one less teeth in rear would help. I just changed from 57 to 56 teeth to get more revs between turns 1 and 2, now this change near bus stop. As I keep getting faster, I'm having to play with gearing a bit more to keep my revs up high.

Now its time to get back to work (which pays for all this) and training to lose ~2-3 lbs before March 18th AFM Rd1
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post #128 of 158 Old 03-07-2017, 08:36 PM
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Hold on here...elaborate more on those issues you had since I'll be pretty much running the same parts (aside from the motion pro). What was the issue and solution to the electrical problem? Was the connector simply not plugged in all the way so it was a bad contact, or something else?

What about the chain coming off?? I've never seen a chain come off a sprocket except when the chain actually broke. Was it just that loose or was the sprocket that worn out or how did that happen?

Just trying to learn from others so I don't repeat the same mistakes as much as possible

2007 ZZR600 (street bike)
2010 1198 (race bike, parted out across the country)
2006 CBR600 (street/track, sold)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
2015 R3 (project bike, future race bike hopefully)

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post #129 of 158 Old 03-07-2017, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Just trying to learn from others so I don't repeat the same mistakes as much as possible
I'd like to do the same always

Electrical problem: I used the standard 8-pin connector from kill switch to the Woodcraft key eliminator. Issue was on of the pins for red/black wire was a bit loose, so on vibration, would cut out. So I switched the connector to a 6-pin (coz thats how many wires go into it), with new pins/plugs and then securely zip tied all wires to prevent any vibration issues. Will see if I can find pics I took of the connector.

Chain: I thought the chain was a tad on the looser side before I started the day. These chains have a short lifetime at high stress/race environments. I have 2 race weekends, 3x 3-lap sprints and ~8-10 trackdays on them (same as my Pirelli Supercorsa SC1 tires). Both the tires and the chain end of life is near and needs replacement. The chain stretched a bit throughout the day, and when it was loose enough, it popped out from the rear sprocket. Thats all there's to it. I tightened the slack in chain up again, and now its been running okay (only got 5 laps after this). However, I think I will replace the chain anyway before my race for safety/peace of mind.

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post #130 of 158 Old 03-07-2017, 10:56 PM
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Chain: I thought the chain was a tad on the looser side before I started the day. These chains have a short lifetime at high stress/race environments. I have 2 race weekends, 3x 3-lap sprints and ~8-10 trackdays on them (same as my Pirelli Supercorsa SC1 tires). Both the tires and the chain end of life is near and needs replacement. The chain stretched a bit throughout the day, and when it was loose enough, it popped out from the rear sprocket. Thats all there's to it. I tightened the slack in chain up again, and now its been running okay (only got 5 laps after this). However, I think I will replace the chain anyway before my race for safety/peace of mind.
Ahh I have heard these 415 o-ringless chains don't last long but wasn't sure how long that is. So it sounds like for me it'll probably be 1 chain per year...and need to keep a closer eye to the tension.

2007 ZZR600 (street bike)
2010 1198 (race bike, parted out across the country)
2006 CBR600 (street/track, sold)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
2015 R3 (project bike, future race bike hopefully)

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