Problem with giving gas - Yamaha R3 Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-31-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Problem with giving gas

Hey guys,

So I recently discovered some issues with my Yamaha R3. I don't know if it's supposed to act like this but I have a feeling it's bad.

Ever since I took it on service which was in march of this year, my motorcycle has been acting weird. They installed and changed a few things for my R3 including new grips, brake pads front & rear, new front tire and rear suspension.

Whenever I give my motorcycle gas, it tends to drop in RPM and vibrate hard. Even when I am driving, I can feel the vibration like a lot and I have a bad feeling it is not supposed to vibrate that much. I know it's common for the R3 to vibrate since its a 2 cylinder motorcycle but this feels like its vibrating way more than usual.

Milage: approx 9320 miles

This especially happens when the engine is hot. You can see that the engine drops to about 1000 rpm and then up again within the same second.

At some points, the bike has even stalled when giving gas and I am not sure what it could be. I have a theory of what it could possibly be but I am not sure which is why I would appreciate help from the community.

Things that might cause the issue of the engine vibration or gas input:

- Iridium spark plugs
- New battery Yuasa
- New grips
- K&N air filter (Running lean on air?)
- Oil? I am using Motul 10w40 Full syntethic and K&N oil filter.

I would love some help with this.

Here is a video when I show how the rpm tends to drop when flickering the gas handle:

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-01-2019, 10:16 AM
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Do A ignition test, and verify you have spark on both cylinders. Then since you are in that area do A compression test on both cylinders. Verify everything is firing on both cylinders.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-01-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jas power View Post
Do A ignition test, and verify you have spark on both cylinders. Then since you are in that area do A compression test on both cylinders. Verify everything is firing on both cylinders.
I am going to buy a kit and try that. Do you know what the compression value should be between to verify if the cylinders are healthy?

I am also gonna have a look at the spark plugs.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-02-2019, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Marwix View Post
I am going to buy a kit and try that. Do you know what the compression value should be between to verify if the cylinders are healthy?

I am also gonna have a look at the spark plugs.

I unfortunately do NOT have the exact values for the compression. You just want to see that they are very close to each other. What I mean is you want to see both about 120 psi or within a couple psi of each other. What you don't want to see is 120 psi on one and 50 psi on the other cylinder.

Don't just check the spark plugs, actually plug a ignition tester inline with the plugs and check the ignition system. That way you can also run the engine and watch for the ignition cutting out (if it has a intermittent problem).

Also go over your service invoice that was done at the shop you were mentioning. If you study what they did, you may find something they might have screw up, or didn't connect something correctly. As they say crap happens, things can get screwed up / overlooked, even from a seasoned technician.

Since these problems happened after they had serviced the bike why not talk to the shop that did the service?

Last edited by jas power; 06-02-2019 at 10:40 AM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-02-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas power View Post
Since these problems happened after they had serviced the bike why not talk to the shop that did the service?

That is exactly what I would recommend and always do: I deliver a good bike to a service and expect a perfect bike back. If not the guys at the dealership have to work twice for my money, it's not my job to look for their mistakes.

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post #6 of 14 Old 06-02-2019, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SofaCruiser View Post
That is exactly what I would recommend and always do: I deliver a good bike to a service and expect a perfect bike back. If not the guys at the dealership have to work twice for my money, it's not my job to look for their mistakes.
I'd normally agree with this approach, but unless there's more to the dealer's service than was listed, I can't for the life of me see any correlation. I guess it's always possible some wiring harness was pinched/chaffed, but that sounds a long shot. Either way, unless the problem's solved with these first basic tests, it's as well to beg off on the dealer, and hope the best.

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post #7 of 14 Old 06-03-2019, 12:58 AM
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It's sad to hear. While I hardly add any value to this topic with my reply but from my experience I stopped trusting in 3rd party service long time ago after they screwed up if not one thing then the other every once in a while. They would never care about your bike and most of them will do "she'll be alright" service. There is only one service to be trusted, it's yourself. Instead of paying someone, that money could be used to purchase tools. At least that was the choice I made for myself. One would also notice any anomalities like the one with the throttle and would be able to trace them back to what have been done and diagnose.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-03-2019, 02:23 PM
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IMHO, there is no issue. Its simply the fuel cut-off on decel. This has been known since 2015 and I think honestly you've already mentioned this in a thread a couple years back.

Why are you bothering to Rev it so little in the first place?

I can make mine stall all day long by just lightly blipping, the cure is pretty simple... just dont lightly blip.

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post #9 of 14 Old 06-04-2019, 03:07 PM
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I think Maverick is on the right page here, but if you think it has become worse, you might just be needing a valve adjustment. If the bike has 10k miles on it and never had one, you probably have valves out of adjustment which can change the idle and make the bike harder to start.



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Originally Posted by Maverick View Post
IMHO, there is no issue. Its simply the fuel cut-off on decel. This has been known since 2015 and I think honestly you've already mentioned this in a thread a couple years back.

Why are you bothering to Rev it so little in the first place?

I can make mine stall all day long by just lightly blipping, the cure is pretty simple... just dont lightly blip.

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post #10 of 14 Old 06-04-2019, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jbluetooth View Post
I think Maverick is on the right page here, but if you think it has become worse, you might just be needing a valve adjustment. If the bike has 10k miles on it and never had one, you probably have valves out of adjustment which can change the idle and make the bike harder to start.
I guess Ill try and be helpful instead of critiquing...

First things first is to check the plugs, 1 cylinder runs hotter than other, if you see any fouling on 1 or both plugs it gives an idea on where to look next.
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