Join Date: Oct 2019
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And if you are going to build an actual race bike, get the rulebook for the organisation that you plan to race it in.
I have about C$10k in my R3 which is strictly a race bike. But I spent money where it needed to be spent: Suspension (#1 thing by far - and which you didn't mention), rider ergonomics, crash damage mitigation, weight reduction where it made logical sense, tuning. I did not spend money on things where the rulebook imposes constraints - the class has a horsepower limit, which was achievable with a stock engine ... so I haven't even had the valve cover off. I did not spend money on silly cosmetic stuff. It looks like a proper little race bike. And it works well. The main problem is the olde phat overweight washed up rider.
Race bikes do not have really fancy modified bodywork unless it serves a purpose. Endurance-racing bikes may have modified fuel tanks to increase capacity IF the rulebook allows it. They may have altered rear bodywork in the interest of properly displaying the rulebook-required number plate (and because they no longer need the passenger seat). Sometimes bodywork mods are done to accommodate the ergonomics and aerodynamics of a particular rider. There's a purpose to it. Stuff that costs money and serves no purpose ... doesn't get done.
On a similar note ... Race bikes do not have fancy paint jobs unless it serves a sponsor's marketing agenda.
If this is a street bike, it is a fool's errand to do serious engine work. Rolling down the road, no one will know you have it. Generally, the most reliable configuration of any Japanese vehicle built in the last couple of decades is ... bone stock. They are engineered to the Nth degree to work and last a long time in stock form. As soon as you deviate, you open up a can of worms. The cylinder walls will be thinner if you bore the cylinders (and you will need to get the cylinder walls re-plated ... and is the aftermarket place that re-plates them going to do as good a job as Yamaha did?). The head gasket will now have less sealing surface. If you raise the compression, now you're putting more stress into those thinner cylinders causing more deflection and you have less gasket sealing surface to deal with it. YES you can safely bore these by (I think) 1mm and aftermarket pistons are available. Is 45 hp (from a few percent overbore, the max that can safely be achieved, and a little more compression) instead of 42 hp (achievable with a stock unopened engine) really going to make a night and day difference to how the bike works on the street? No. You're still going to get walked by an R6. And it will probably not last as long.
Another thing ... Resale value. Most people in the market for a bike in this class will be looking for a stock or near-stock bike, and certainly not what they perceive as a grenade with the pin pulled.
I will never dissuade someone from installing better suspension parts, even on a street bike. I have the Ohlins NIX22 cartridge kit and an Ohlins shock on mine, both valved and spring for my weight. It costs money and it makes a BIG difference to how the bike rides and handles once it is properly set up. And if push came to shove ... I could take it all out and put it back to stock and no one would ever know.
I also won't dissuade someone from installing different handlebars or foot controls if it makes them more comfortable on the bike. Do that.
Forget about all the other stuff. Serious riders will see that Ohlins shock and know what it means. All the fancy paint and bodywork mods is just lipstick.