Front brakes - lever pull before hard/full brake - Yamaha R3 Forum
User Tag List

 3Likes
  • 1 Post By s102000
  • 1 Post By matrix22
  • 1 Post By Kojiiro
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 Old 10-11-2017, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Front brakes - lever pull before hard/full brake

I did some brake work last night, switched to steel lines. Not sure if i've done the bleeding procedure correctly, as the mityvac i was using seemed like a POS.

I've forgotten how the brakes should feel, so can anyone tell me how much lever pull you have until its stiff? Also looking for a reference on how far the lever is from the handlebars at full brake pressure.

Any help appreciated. Thanks!
Jabs83 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 10-11-2017, 03:25 PM
Member
 
s102000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Ga.
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
It should be pretty close to a 1/4" pull with the braided lines maybe stiffer. The mini vac works good for me pulling the fluid down. You may need to open the line at the master cylinder slightly to get some air out. Hope this helps.
Kojiiro likes this.
s102000 is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 10-11-2017, 06:41 PM
Senior Member
 
matrix22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Do the squeeze, bleed out, tighten, pump pump pump, squeeze, bleed out, tighten... Until all the air bubbles are out. Your brake lever should have a reduced travel and be solid. Sometimes bleed vacuums suck air through the threads of the bleed screw.
Kojiiro likes this.
matrix22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 10-11-2017, 09:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Kojiiro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,448
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 957 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by matrix22 View Post
Sometimes bleed vacuums suck air through the threads of the bleed screw.
If you put some fluid on the bleed screw, you can actually see this. On the threads too. Had me stumped for like half an hour once why I couldn’t get the **** brakes to be as stiff as I normally want them lol.
matrix22 likes this.
Kojiiro is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 10-23-2017, 06:27 AM
Senior Member
 
MotoVirg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
So I need some help

I upgraded to the brake lines from jesse norton

I saw a previous post about leaning the bike to the left to get the last bubble?

If I am not using a vacuum, whats the best way to do a proper bleed and have the brake lines nice n tight?

do I need to put some fluid on the bleed screw?
MotoVirg is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 10-23-2017, 07:30 AM
Member
 
BruceV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: WMASS
Posts: 87
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoVirg View Post
So I need some help

I upgraded to the brake lines from jesse norton

I saw a previous post about leaning the bike to the left to get the last bubble?

If I am not using a vacuum, whats the best way to do a proper bleed and have the brake lines nice n tight?

do I need to put some fluid on the bleed screw?
You can do it by holding the lever in - opening the bleed screw - lever will go to handlebar - keep holding it - close bleed screw. Repeat until you have a good lever and don't see air bubbles.


You can also wire tie the brake lever overnight to help get any residual air out of the line.


Be patient - sometimes takes a little more time and brake fluid than you expected.
BruceV is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 10-23-2017, 09:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Kojiiro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,448
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 957 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceV View Post
You can do it by holding the lever in - opening the bleed screw - lever will go to handlebar - keep holding it - close bleed screw. Repeat until you have a good lever and don't see air bubbles.


You can also wire tie the brake lever overnight to help get any residual air out of the line.


Be patient - sometimes takes a little more time and brake fluid than you expected.
Wire tying/zip tying is something you want to do after you actually have good brake pressure. The steps mentioned here are correct, and they aren't pleasant to do, at leas not for me. I did this on my very first bike and disliked it so much after doing the same thing over and over for about 20 minutesthat I got in my car and bought a mityvac. Money well spent.
Kojiiro is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 10-28-2017, 11:02 PM
Senior Member
 
Matt-J2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
I have the problem that I replaced the lines/pads and everything was great for a while, then it got...mushy. To much travel on the lever. I went to pull everything apart, re-install and re-flush but one of the screw heads on the reservoir stripped so now I'm stuck finding a set of screws, or maybe just replacing the whole thing altogether with an upgraded unit.

This is my signature. Woo.
Hit me up on Instagram, look at my terrible pics: motomatt_r3
Matt-J2 is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 10-28-2017, 11:59 PM
Senior Member
 
Kojiiro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,448
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 957 Post(s)
Which screw stripped? Just one of the 4 that holds the reservoir cap on? If so, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you aren't careful with the bleed nipples though you may strip that and then you will have problems getting good pressure.
Kojiiro is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 10-29-2017, 10:45 AM
Senior Member
 
Matt-J2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Reservoir cap, though mine only has 2 screws.
I 'm not super worried, except in the case I wind up needing to add fluid back in, since I can't get the cover off. But it's late October here in NE Wisconsin so at this point I have time to work on it!

This is my signature. Woo.
Hit me up on Instagram, look at my terrible pics: motomatt_r3
Matt-J2 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha R3 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cheap Front suspension, Brakes and wheel upgrade - maybe rear shock too Oaklandish Suspension 36 07-30-2019 02:11 AM
The "Shifting Issues" Thread - problems with your shifts? axif86 Drivetrain 205 10-23-2016 11:32 PM
How to install a SS front brake line and bleed the brakes Norton-Motorsports.com Yamaha R3 How To & DIY 14 03-26-2016 01:48 AM
Anyone put on a braided hose for the front brake? Sam Brakes 17 09-02-2015 06:25 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome