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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, Wanted to Start my R3 today after winter. when I took it out the garage it started and turned it off to clean some things. Then I tried to turn it on it just wont start. the gauges are there and it just has the clicking noise towards the rear and wont start at all. I changed the batteries to the AutoCraft Power Sport Battery 7L-BS from Advance auto parts but still having that clicking noise.. then all of the sudden the gauges starts to disappear but the lights are still there. I checked all the fuses and all is good. Maybe the starter Relay? if anyone has or had this issue please shed some light. thank you!
 

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Under both front and rear seats, and center plastic panel that separates the two seats....The R3 has a 'main' 30 Amp fuse (separate from the fuse box) that feeds directly to the starter relay. Several folks have reported a loose connection in this area.
Unless you're familiar with an electrical system and intend to use a voltage meter to diagnose the problem... Disconnect the Battery.. there's nothing you need voltage for to visually inspect the system.
Look for signs of a loose or partially melted insulated wire, and possibly corrosion or other signs of a poor connection. Look anywhere from the wire feeding the 30 amp fuse to the wire leading out of starter relay.
This may sound complicated, but it's really straight forward.
The R3's Owner Manual provides both photos and descriptions to walk you through finding both main fuse and starter relay.
Good Luck. Keep us updated. There's always a chance the problem could be elsewhere.
Here's a link for an owner's manual. Pages 6-30
UB02E0E0.book (yamaha-motor.eu)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Under both front and rear seats, and center plastic panel that separates the two seats....The R3 has a 'main' 30 Amp fuse (separate from the fuse box) that feeds directly to the starter relay. Several folks have reported a loose connection in this area.
Unless you're familiar with an electrical system and intend to use a voltage meter to diagnose the problem... Disconnect the Battery.. there's nothing you need voltage for to visually inspect the system.
Look for signs of a loose or partially melted insulated wire, and possibly corrosion or other signs of a poor connection. Look anywhere from the wire feeding the 30 amp fuse to the wire leading out of starter relay.
This may sound complicated, but it's really straight forward.
The R3's Owner Manual provides both photos and descriptions to walk you through finding both main fuse and starter relay.
Good Luck. Keep us updated. There's always a chance the problem could be elsewhere.
Here's a link for an owner's manual. Pages 6-30
UB02E0E0.book (yamaha-motor.eu)
I had checked all these and its all good, but still not starting. Gauges are in and out. @airhead83 may be right to check the starter motor.
 

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I had checked all these and its all good, but still not starting. Gauges are in and out. @airhead83 may be right to check the starter motor.
Hey, man. I think I'm having the same problem as you. Did you happen to figure it out? If so, do you mind telling me what the problem was? My thoughts were leading to the starter, as has been mentioned, but I didn't want to buy a new starter if it may be something else that I possibly overlooked, but I've checked the wires, fuses, changed batteries, bought a new battery... If you can help me out at all I would be greatly appreciative!
 

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I've never heard anyone say they needed to replace the starter, but it could certainly be the problem. At around $100, the starter isn't terribly expensive, but if it's not the culprit, you generally can't return electrical components.
The most frequent problems are with loose wire/connections going to the starter relay from the battery and the separate assembly holding the 'main 30 AMP fuse'. But I'd also check both ends of any grounds at or going to the starter and relay.
I'm sure the starter can be isolated and tested while still installed on the bike, but not by a Klutz like me. I'd probably short out the entire electrical system. So, I'd remove the starter and bench test it.
It'll either work smoothly or show signs of dragging. At the same time, you can check the starter's input drive shaft and have a looky-loo at the drive gear to be sure they're in good working order.
 

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Before tearing into the bike, jump from a car battery (car off!) briefly while attempting to start the bike. People have definitely purchased brand new dud or dead bike batteries before. It happens every season.

You don't want the car running, because the car's powerful alternator can overwhelm the bike's R/R.
 

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I've never heard anyone say ... good working order.
I had read your other post and I believe I have checked almost all of it. I will need to go over it again, possibly just have it looked at, but thank you for the information.

And I hate that part about electronics. I had to buy some parts to replace and I accidentally bought a second light I didn't need and they wouldn't let me return it. Accidental replacement, I guess. Oops.

I will let you know what ends up being the problem. Thanks again.
 

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I had read your other post and I believe I have checked almost all of it. I will need to go over it again, possibly just have it looked at, but thank you for the information.

And I hate that part about electronics. I had to buy some parts to replace and I accidentally bought a second light I didn't need and they wouldn't let me return it. Accidental replacement, I guess. Oops.

I will let you know what ends up being the problem. Thanks again.
The main culprit I'm talking about with the "main" 30A fuse/starter relay requires removal of both front and rear seats, and the center panel between the seats. This fuse is not in the fuse box but is within a separate wire fed off the battery's positive terminal. The main fuse assembly is actually in line with the battery and the starter relay. Take a careful looky-loo at everything here and its attachment point at the starter relay and you've covered what I'm trying to describe. Good Luck. (y)
 

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Hey everyone,

I’m having a similar issue. 2019 Yamaha r3. Error code 12.

About four weeks ago the bike wouldn’t power off while stopping for coffee.. I take it directly back home.

My initial issues before any of this was I needed a replacement start time kill switch. ~ not sure if that’s a contributing factor. I still need it. Just waiting on arrival.

So the same day - same ride home the bike dies out of no where. I get it towed and folks were telling me it could possibly be a bad battery, bad starter motor, bad stator, or a bad fuse.

we came to the conclusion the fuses were okay
the battery was a problem after an idle jump from a car
And possibly the starter relay since we got the clicking sound

The bike would not start unless I do that whole run and start thing which I can not do at work or independently without a nice downhill.

I replaced the battery and starter relay.
I'm still getting the clicking sound and code 12

Any advice?
 

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Relay clicking means too low battery amps. That can mean a bad battery, or a bad charge circuit. There have been a few with bad stators (rarw), making it worth checking.
 
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