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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im on mobile so sorry for bad formatting

Went out Sunday for a long ride 3+ hours total on the bike and we were doing 90+ the whole ride, bike ran great the whole time until I stopped for gas about 10 minutes from home. Fueled up and went to start it and it just wouldn't start, just clicked/buzzed and gave a code 46 on the display. The first thought was to check the battery, was getting 13v with the bike running. Talked to a few of my friends and they said to replace the battery. Got a brand new OEM battery popped it and got the same reading, took it for a ride and rode for about 20 minutes and it seemed to have fixed my issue. Went to go home that night (was working in my parents barn at the time) and as soon as I hit the freeway the check engine light came on briefly then I lost all my display. Turned around and went back to the barn, shut it off and let it sit for a bit and tried to start it again and it started fine, looked online and was told to check all the fuses, all checked out even the charging fuse. I had to get to work early so I drove my car back home late last night after fiddling with it for a while. Now im trying to research some more and not finding the next place to check for issues.

Any ideas/input would be great. Thanks so much in advance.
 

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Get it running and then measure the DC voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running in neutral at about 5000 rpm. Tell us what that voltage is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Error code aside. Doing 90+ mph for more than three hours straight will be wrecking your bike's internals.
It wasnt 3 hours straight. We had it pinned for the 45 minutes we were on the freeway then we got into some twists and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Get it running and then measure the DC voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running in neutral at about 5000 rpm. Tell us what that voltage is.
13.9v across the terminals at neutral. No change when revving to 5k
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's a simple question - how did your battery terminals look? Any corrosion? If not, are they tight? Might not be anything wrong, just bad connection.

If that checks out, follow the above post and replace the rectifier
no corrosion on the battery or anything around the battery. Did find this though on the connector to the rectifier :( apparently, it came loose during the ride and caused it to burn up... replacing the rectifier and connector as soon as I get the parts in.
68153
 

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Yep, except the pin connected to the stator is what burnt. Yours seems to have burnt the pin going to your battery's positive lead if I am not mistaken.

When re-crimping a new connector, it might be a good idea to solder the wire to the pin as well. and ensure a tight fit.

These connectors honestly aren't great. They are pretty close to the output limit of the rectifier.
 

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no corrosion on the battery or anything around the battery. Did find this though on the connector to the rectifier :( apparently, it came loose during the ride and caused it to burn up... replacing the rectifier and connector as soon as I get the parts in.
View attachment 68153
Wow! I wonder if it would be worth pulling that whole wire and attaching it outside of the harness with a thicker gauge wire?
 

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Wow! I wonder if it would be worth pulling that whole wire and attaching it outside of the harness with a thicker gauge wire?
This is a complete pain to do and iIdo not recommend doing this. My suggestion would be to is a multimeter to check the voltage drop from that pin to the battery and ensuring that it is not shorting to ground. Also, do you have any accessories that are spliced into your harness? I would strongly suggest running these devices directly off the battery with a relay circuit to prevent excessive stress to the stock harness. Also, my main suspect is the connector and rectifier as this style of connectors are known for this QC issue where the pin has poor contact with the rectifier, generating excessive heat which can melt the plug. Its why most bigger bikes no longer use this style of connector. Change your rectifier and replace the socket housing. Replace the burnt pin as well and solder the wire to the crimped pin to improve conductivity. You may want to consider adding some dielectric grease as well to prevent corrosion in the pin.
 
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