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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
So today i did the usual. I woke up, rode my sexy r3 to work, parked, and went about my day. 9 hours later I come out to find when I turn my ignition key, nothing happens. No display, no sound, nothing.

First I just quickly checked for loos cables
Then I assumed just a dead battery. 1.5 hours later of roll starting pushing up and down a parking garage and no luck.
Yes the killswitch is off, yes it has gas. The bike has been backfiring lately. But gets better when it’s warmed up. Originally thought maybe due to aftermarket exhaust, but now that it’s not starting I think I have a bad stator. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks kindly
 

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Your R3 has fuel injection and requires 12V to operate the fuel pump.
Push, roll, and pop the clutch won't start the bike if the battery voltage is too low to prime and operate the fuel pump.
Almost all starting problems are Battery related. Get the battery fully charged and tested by someone who has the proper equipment to 'load test' the battery. A static reading across the battery of 12V is useless if the battery is not capable of holding that voltage when a load is present.
After you verify the battery is good, if the bike still has no display or lights, it could be a blown fuse or connection.
Hook up a charger to the battery and see if you get lights or display. That should eliminate a blown fuse or point you in that direction.
 

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2016 Yamaha YZF-R3
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Hello,
So today i did the usual. I woke up, rode my sexy r3 to work, parked, and went about my day. 9 hours later I come out to find when I turn my ignition key, nothing happens. No display, no sound, nothing.

First I just quickly checked for loos cables
Then I assumed just a dead battery. 1.5 hours later of roll starting pushing up and down a parking garage and no luck.
Yes the killswitch is off, yes it has gas. The bike has been backfiring lately. But gets better when it’s warmed up. Originally thought maybe due to aftermarket exhaust, but now that it’s not starting I think I have a bad stator. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks kindly
Killswitch off? Don't you mean on? 99.999999999999% likely it's a dead battery. Get a multimeter, check it, and then replace the battery because it's going to be a dead battery. You can then check the bike's charging with a multimeter. Should show 12.6-12.8 or higher for a fully charged battery off, when running at 3-5krpms 13.4-13.6 for a good charging system.

As for backfiring, what have you done to the bike? How many miles are on it? What maintenance have you done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you guys for quick responses. Didn’t realize a fuel injected bike needs power to roll start. Will try and check the battery. Just have to figure out how to get her home first. Had to leave in parking garage over night.
-will check list
•Battery
•Fusebox
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Start with fuses and battery lug tightness. Hopefully nobody cut a wire hoping that you would abandon the bike overnight at your work's parking lot.
That’s what my fear is too…
I checked the battery with a multimeter, showing 12.6. I checked fuse box as well as 2 other fuses. The one across from fuse box, (not sure what it’s called) as well as the one that is in the little plastic casing by the battery. All fuses were fine, unless I missed one. Maybe an ignition switch problem? Just seems weird cause was fine when I shut the bike off and went to work.
 

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Can I just hook it too a car, no where to plug a charger in
Yes, but your battery isn't the issue. 12.6V might not be enough to turn over the bike, but it's definitely more than enough to turn on the dash. Your kill switch might not be working, or your ignition isn't working are my guesses (assuming all fuses are good).
 

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I'm almost positive you can unbolt the wire harness from the ignition and just replace the harness. It'll be more expensive than soldering the wires, but it'll be a perfect repair. Replacing the ignition barrel is also a possibility, but drilling out the shear bolts is a pain, and then you're stuck with a different key for the ignition and fuel tank/storage. Try looking for a used ignition and swap the wires is my recommendation.
 

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You can splice the wires back together.
I would recommend you track down a product called "posi-lock": Posi-Lock(R) - The Best Connectors You'll Ever Use!. They are small/compact product for splicing wires together. They make a few different connectors. Be sure to get the one for splicing two wires back together- I believe it's called the "Posi-Lock"... They are not cheapest connectors around, but they are reusable if you ever need to take them apart. I discovered the connectors a few years ago. It's all I ever use on any of my bikes. You could most likely wrap the outer casing with electrical tape, and forget it ever happened :cool:...
 
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