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Discussion Starter #1
It’s random, and it don’t happen often. Then sometimes it will happen often. Anyways 90 precent of the time I will be coming to a stop clutch engaged and down shifting and it will cut out. 10 precent of the time after start up it will die in the first couple of feet of moving. I have noticed that when I do come to a complete stop, weather it be a normal or a hard stop the idle seems to be trying to catch up really speratic for a few seconds. I’m stumped. With my multimeter I’ve checked all my voltage and I’ve checked all the resistance in my switches ( clutch, side stand, ignition, ect) they all checked out to be working properly. Fuses are good, replaced my air filter and my spark plugs as well. I’m running out of ideas what more could it need air, fuel, spark.
 

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I had a lot of problems with my 2015 R3 stalling the moment I gave it gas after sitting at a stop light. Seemed like it got worse the longer it sat (hotter air). Pretty sure some of these bikes are running slightly too lean. My new Ninja 650 has a similar problem, it's just unbelievable. My plan is to get a non-California PCV (power commander 5) to adjust idle fueling.
 

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Hmm. It might be possible that your multimeter didn't reveal some intermittent issues with side-stand or clutch/neutral safety switches, such as connectivity faults caused by vibration or motion of the clutch lever or switch-gear [kill switch...] or side stand itself, a pinched wire somewhere along the line, or some dirt or grime or corrosion built up on something [e.g. inside the start/kill switch] etc. (based on your description, those would seem to be likely culprits). You might try disconnecting/bypassing (poss. by CONNECTING the loop...not sure how it works exactly) those switches, and then see if it keeps exhibiting the same issue. Other than that, it could actually be your battery. I've had at least a couple of bikes that had starting and stalling issues caused by bad batteries (even ones with "readings" that looked just fine).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Preciate it man, I’ll check it out once more. Haven’t gotten the chance to get back into it I’ll prolly start with the battery
 

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Cool -- let us know if you figure it out.
So I’m pretty sure it’s the clutch cable/ throttle cable leaning more to the throttle cable. I think it’s all out of spec I been playing with the adjustments now it’s not stalling but max speed has went down
 

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So I’m pretty sure it’s the clutch cable/ throttle cable leaning more to the throttle cable. I think it’s all out of spec I been playing with the adjustments now it’s not stalling but max speed has went down
I could be missing something, but I'm not sure how it could be the throttle cable: adjusting the free play could only increase idle speed if you have essentially negative free play (if it's pulling on the cable slightly without you twisting the throttle) -- technically that might actually "fix" the stalling, but it would be like a patch and wouldn't actually address the root cause of the issue; aside from that, if you have too much free play, you'll just be unable to reach full throttle even with the throttle twisted all the way back. That might explain why your top speed has been reduced.

I'd be willing to bet that the issue is still there and will pop back up soon. Hopefully, I'm wrong haha!
 
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