[MrDan]

I was reading Jims 300V thread the other day and it was mentioned that 300V is for track use and therefore has a shorter lifespan. I goggled and tried to find a definitive answer but I saw the same discussion on various forums going back to about 2010. Since my 600 mile service was coming up I decided to buy 300V and a fresh filter and use it. I will run it for 3000 miles and send it out to Blackstone labs for an analysis and see just how much it has degraded.

Brief history of this specific bike, I got the bike at 0 miles in 2/2018. I did a hard break in, it saw the rev limiter while it still had 0 miles on the odometer and was ran through all 6 gears, shifting when the shift light came on within the first 2-3 miles. Ridden hard almost every ride since I have to use the freeway to go almost anywhere. I did an oil change with hi flo (HF204 RC) filter and Yama lube 10/40 conventional oil at exactly 100 and 300 miles. At 698 miles on 4/21/2018 the oil was changed to Motul 300V and a fresh hi flo (HF204 RC) filter. I also did the rest of the 600 mile service at this time.


I'm really interested to see the lab results after 3000 miles. if they determine minimal breakdown I will run it for 5000 miles the next time and have the analysis done again.

 

[Chris12]

I’m interested to see the results as I’d like to switch to 300v too.

Thanks for doing this

 

[JimGnitecki]

Yes, please do keep us posted!

Jim G

 

[catfish]

ran 300v in the bike for 2000km, the bike sounds cool seen to rev faster i like it but will be ruining Motul 5100 Ester on streets.

 

[zdaman]

I run it up to 4k miles on my R1. Blackstone said i could run it longer but i feel there is no need.

 

[JimGnitecki]

I run it up to 4k miles on my R1. Blackstone said i could run it longer but i feel there is no need.

Well that sounds fine, as my total annual mileage is unlikely to get to 4000 miles. If your annual miles are below the recommended oil change interval on your vehicle, you are supposed to change the oil at least annually.

Jim G

 

[MrDan]

I run it up to 4k miles on my R1. Blackstone said i could run it longer but i feel there is no need.

I usually run Rotella T6 in all my bikes, I had Blackstone do an analysis after 5k in my R1 a few years ago and was told it still had more life in it. To be fair those were 100 mile a day commuting miles, aside from an occasional speed burst while getting on the freeway and random clutch up to keep from getting bored it stayed in lower RPMs. Since then I changed jobs and my commute is about half that now.


I was curious when I heard people saying that the 300V isn't good for the street. I couldn't wrap my head around an advanced, high end oil that everyone thinks is amazing yet somehow after a weekend or two on a track it turns to garbage. I'm pretty sure with just 3000 miles they are going to tell me there was nearly no degradation and its **** near as good as when I poured it out of the bottle.


Since the R3 only takes 2 liters and I got it brand new I may continue to use 300v but my R1 (4 liters) will get the same Rotella T6 that's kept her healthy for the last 30K miles of my abuse.

 

[marshdrummer]

I was curious when I heard people saying that the 300V isn't good for the street. I couldn't wrap my head around an advanced, high end oil that everyone thinks is amazing yet somehow after a weekend or two on a track it turns to garbage. I'm pretty sure with just 3000 miles they are going to tell me there was nearly no degradation and its **** near as good as when I poured it out of the bottle.

I don't think it's the fact that it turns to garbage after a weekend...It's more of a cheap(er) insurance policy of a blown motor. Racing/trackdays, your motor is pushed to redline and ran in the upper RPM ranges longer....


That being said, I've run 300V in my track/street R1 since the day I got it. Couple of trackdays and 1,000ish miles of street, I change it out.

 

[Chris12]

I did a bit more research into the topic of “300v for street use” today.

For those who don’t know, Motul makes two 100% Synthetic Ester based lubricants (oils), 300v Power, and 7100 4T. The first is recommended for race use and the latter is made for street use. But why?

Motul is vague on the subject and I believe intentionally so to keep debates like this alive this sparking interest in their product.

To me, the information that I obtained from Motuls website and posted below basically shows that both are excellent lubricants/ oils that will thoroughly resist breakdown - even over extended use (which I believe will be supported by the OP’s lab results).

The 7100 just contains more gearbox detergents which Motul must feel is necessary for street use, which usually entails extended time periods between oil changes.

If I switch to Motul, I’ll get the 7100 due to the fact that I typically only chance my oil every year (One year of riding for me is less than 2,000 miles).


1. 300v Power, which Motul describes as:

100% synthetic racing motor oil based on ESTER Core®️ technology. Through technical partnerships with most prestigious Teams of car racing, MOTUL has developed a wide range of lubricants for Racing and Sport cars. The 300V motorsport line improves performance of the latest generation engines along with high protection against wear, oil pressure drop and oxidation due to high temperature. Power and Reliability. Medium engine dilution.
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-power-5w40--2

Technical Data Sheet:

FLS isn’t cited in this TDS, but at the bottom of this 300v Page:
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/product_landing_pages/300v-factory-line-racing
The FZG (Forschungsstelle für Zahnrader und Getriebebau) test evaluates fluid lubricating and wear protection properties at the interface of a loaded set of gears. The gears are operated at 1450 rpm through 12 progressive load stages (max load of 534.5 Nm) at 15 minute intervals with a fluid temperature stabilized at 90°C (194°F).

For additional performance, two extended stages have been checked to go up to stage 14 with a torque of 714.2 Nm. Gear teeth are inspected after each load stage for scu ing, to visually detect scratches on the pinions. Lubricants are then graded based on their “Failure Load Stage” or FLS rating from FLS 1 (very poor result) up to FLS 14 (outstanding result).

This test checks if adequate lubrication film thickness has been built between the gears for gearbox reliability.

2. 7100 4T, which Motul describes as:

100% Synthetic Ester based motorcycle lubricant for high performance bikes, sports bikes, street & road bikes, trails, off road bikes, enduro, trial fitted with 4 stroke engines, integrated or non-integrated gearbox, wet or dry clutch, engines meeting Euro 2 or Euro 3 emission regulation, fitted with exhaust gas after treatment systems: catalytic converters, air injection into exhaust pipe. Recommended for specific BMW, APRILLA, GUZZI gas engines requiring SAE 5W-40 viscosity grade oil.

Technical Data Sheet (please note FLS greater than 14):

 

[MrDan]

That's great info Chris. I was having a hard time believing 300V would stand up to track use but degrade on the street, I hadn't considered that it doesn't degrade but additives in 7100 make it more appropriate for street use. I am still looking forward to the results, I may run Rotella T6 next and have that analyzed (last Rotella analysis was years ago and I cant find it) and compare the two side by side as the for/against Rotella argument is pretty common.

 

[JimGnitecki]

Thank-you Chris 12. Did you guys catch the statement in the Motul 7100 writeup that says it can be mixed with synthetic or mineral lubricants, whereas the 300V statement says do not mix it? That makes me think 2 things:

- The base chemistry for the 2 oils is notably different

- For someone whose vehicle consumes oil between oil changes, and who tours, the ability to top up oil enroute with oil bought at a gas stop, versus being carried on the bike, would be helpful. Of course neither of these really applies to an R3, which does not appear to consume oil, and which is not exactly a touring bike!

Note also that the torque forces for the transmission gear test are VERY high! 714.2 newton meters = 527 foot pounds of torque! Cars or diesels with very large displacement engines hit those kinds of numbers in the gearbox (remember the torque in the gearbox is HIGHER than at the crankshaft - that's why gearboxes are used!).

But our puny R3 engines produce a claimed maximum of about 22 ft lb of torque at the crank! Inside the gearbox, the internal primary and first gear ratios say that it is multiplied by 3.04 x 2.50 to a maximum of 167 ft lb at the "worst" point and peak loading. So, respectfully, EITHER of the 2 oils is going to be overkill in terms of gearbox protection!

Jim G

 

[Marwix]

What do you guys prefer, Motul 7100 4T full syntethic 10w40 or the Yamalube 10w40 full synthethic?

 

[Chris12]

Yamalube Racing Full Synthetic has a JASO MA rating - ( If some properties fall within the MA1 subcategory but others in MA2 then the product is simply a JASO MA product.)
https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/...ls&d=30&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=

Motul 7100 4T has a JASO MA2 rating (see tech sheet in my last post).

https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

 

[bbsteinnewyork]

What do you guys prefer, Motul 7100 4T full syntethic 10w40 or the Yamalube 10w40 full synthethic?

Yamalube 15/30 full syntechic or the Yamalube 0/20 full synthecthic race only both have esters

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[JimGnitecki]

Just an update on my using 300V: It's been 717 km = 444 miles since I changed from the as-delivered factory oil to the 300V. The oil in the sight glass is still absolutely clean looking, and I love the engine and transmission smoothness. I really like this oil, and no way am I going to change away from it.

Jim G

 

[zdaman]

Just an update on my using 300V: It's been 717 km = 444 miles since I changed from the as-delivered factory oil to the 300V. The oil in the sight glass is still absolutely clean looking, and I love the engine and transmission smoothness. I really like this oil, and no way am I going to change away from it.

Jim G

The theory and discussion on the R1 forums is that it stays clean becuase of less additives. I'm with you though. I'm sticking to it and my 3 previous lab results keep my mind at peace.

 

[JimGnitecki]

The theory and discussion on the R1 forums is that it stays clean becuase of less additives. I'm with you though. I'm sticking to it and my 3 previous lab results keep my mind at peace.

Yes, and as for the "theory", there are TWO possible reasons I can think of for the 300V staying so clean:

One is that it has less additives that grab less debris and therefor stays cleaner itself.

But the other is that maybe it is such a good oil that there is actually less wear and debris buildup, and therefore less stuff to pollute and darken the oil!

I'm no oil chemist, so I don't know. But I like what I am seeing and feeling with the 300V. And your lab results seem to back us up.

Jim G

 

[KeysorSozer]

Yes, and as for the "theory", there are TWO possible reasons I can think of for the 300V staying so clean:

One is that it has less additives that grab less debris and therefor stays cleaner itself.

But the other is that maybe it is such a good oil that there is actually less wear and debris buildup, and therefore less stuff to pollute and darken the oil!

I'm no oil chemist, so I don't know. But I like what I am seeing and feeling with the 300V. And your lab results seem to back us up.

Jim G

The numbers I get back from the lab are very very good, the amount of wear particulates in my oil is below their threshold for "good" and my oil still gets dark after 5000KM. The darkening of the oil should primarily be combustion by products, not wear particulates.

Unfortunately if the oil doesn't pick it up, the lab won't be able to tell you what is actually going on. The lab can only tell you about the things the oil picks up.

None of this to say that 300V is a bad oil.

 

[JimGnitecki]

Today, when I checked my oil in the sight window, for the first time since I changed the oil to the 300V, the oil looks "golden" versus the bright "green" it has looked up to now.It's been 960 kilometers = 595 miles since my oil change. I'll keep monitoring the colour.

Jim G

 

[KeysorSozer]

Today, when I checked my oil in the sight window, for the first time since I changed the oil to the 300V, the oil looks "golden" versus the bright "green" it has looked up to now.It's been 960 kilometers = 595 miles since my oil change. I'll keep monitoring the colour.

Jim G

Actually, I didn't consider that the 500 or so km you had on the oil isn't actually all that much. I should do the same next time I do an oil change.

Something I also neglected to mention, is that the lab will tell you the change in anti-wear properties, so good results there, even if it isn't cleaning as well is still good news.