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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the consensus on this? Is it worth doing the 415 chain conversion vs sticking to the oem size? Anyone heard of any issues with those chains snapping off?
 
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I currently run the 415 chain setup from Spears, but have yet to test it out much. I'll try to report back mid-year with my findings. To my understanding, you definitely can't go wrong with less rotating mass. Spears claims a little over 0.5 rwhp gain from their Dyno runs, if I recall correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I currently run the 415 chain setup from Spears, but have yet to test it out much. I'll try to report back mid-year with my findings. To my understanding, you definitely can't go wrong with less rotating mass. Spears claims a little over 0.5 rwhp gain from their Dyno runs, if I recall correctly.
That I believe, but not at the risk of having a chain pop off. I remember hearing of people with liter bikes converting to 520 chains (from 525 stock) and every now and then I'd hear about a case when one broke because it was over stressed and caused way more damage. Usually when a chain breaks it takes a chunk out of the engine case and other things in that area. I also haven't checked CCS's rules on chains. Not sure if they allow it in all classes.
 

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I currently run the 415 chain setup from Spears, but have yet to test it out much. I'll try to report back mid-year with my findings. To my understanding, you definitely can't go wrong with less rotating mass. Spears claims a little over 0.5 rwhp gain from their Dyno runs, if I recall correctly.
That I believe, but not at the risk of having a chain pop off. I remember hearing of people with liter bikes converting to 520 chains (from 525 stock) and every now and then I'd hear about a case when one broke because it was over stressed and caused way more damage. Usually when a chain breaks it takes a chunk out of the engine case and other things in that area. I also haven't checked CCS's rules on chains. Not sure if they allow it in all classes.
I know a guy that ran an R3 through WERA last year with the 415 kit and he never had an issue. I think tension and wear needs to be checked regularly, but outside of that I haven't heard of large issues yet. I completely understand your concern though.

Regarding CCS rules, I have no idea what their thoughts are on chain conversions. May not hurt to verify before making a decision though.
 

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I was considering the conversion till I found out that the 415s are not o-ring chains. If you do a 520 conversion on a liter bike, you get an o-ring chain.

My bike does do occasional track days, but is mostly a street bike. I need an o-ring chain

CJ
 

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That I believe, but not at the risk of having a chain pop off. I remember hearing of people with liter bikes converting to 520 chains (from 525 stock) and every now and then I'd hear about a case when one broke because it was over stressed and caused way more damage. Usually when a chain breaks it takes a chunk out of the engine case and other things in that area. I also haven't checked CCS's rules on chains. Not sure if they allow it in all classes.
I did the 520 chain conversion on a GSXR 600, along with a -1 front sprocket and lightweight rear. Was by far the best bang for the buck I ever spent.
 

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What's the consensus on this? Is it worth doing the 415 chain conversion vs sticking to the oem size? Anyone heard of any issues with those chains snapping off?
If you are racing the bike I would recommend it, our newest rear sprocket it the lightest one on the market and is being used by several teams across the country and also now at the WSS300.

The key to anything lasting is the proper maintenance, chain adjustment and lube.
Our newest set up is just a few grams short of 3LBS. off the bike.

If all of the little bikes make the same RWHP , the difference will be in the lightest parts, frictional HP and unsprung weight
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you are racing the bike I would recommend it, our newest rear sprocket it the lightest one on the market and is being used by several teams across the country and also now at the WSS300.

The key to anything lasting is the proper maintenance, chain adjustment and lube.
Our newest set up is just a few grams short of 3LBS. off the bike.

If all of the little bikes make the same RWHP , the difference will be in the lightest parts, frictional HP and unsprung weight
So the WSS300 guys will be running 415 chain and sprockets?

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think I may be required to use Vortex sprockets, per their sponsorship contract, and they don't have any 415 sprockets or chain at the moment and not sure if they are even going to make any. I'll have to check on that. If I'm not required to use their sprockets, I may do the 415 conversion.
 
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So the WSS300 guys will be running 415 chain and sprockets?

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think I may be required to use Vortex sprockets, per their sponsorship contract, and they don't have any 415 sprockets or chain at the moment and not sure if they are even going to make any. I'll have to check on that. If I'm not required to use their sprockets, I may do the 415 conversion.
If Vortex don't make the product you need, you can use another mfr. products I believe....iirc

I'm also running the Spears 415 kit, however, never did a back to back test at the track to compare with anything else. I just need to get the gearing correct for all the tracks (it changes as my pace is getting faster).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If Vortex don't make the product you need, you can use another mfr. products I believe....iirc

I'm also running the Spears 415 kit, however, never did a back to back test at the track to compare with anything else. I just need to get the gearing correct for all the tracks (it changes as my pace is getting faster).
I'll ask Vortex for a copy of the contract to make sure. Don't want to piss anyone off.

I'm pretty sold on the 415 conversion, although I would like to ride the bike first without all the upgrades on it so I can see the different. I'm sure the stock suspensions are garbage, like most bikes in this class, so maybe I won't try it quite stock, but close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If Vortex don't make the product you need, you can use another mfr. products I believe....iirc

I'm also running the Spears 415 kit, however, never did a back to back test at the track to compare with anything else. I just need to get the gearing correct for all the tracks (it changes as my pace is getting faster).
You were right. They said since they don't make them for that size I can run whatever I want. Funny thing, the guy I talked to from Vortex even recommended Spears Racing for the 415 chain/sprocket kit, so I'll be doing that at some point this year. There are other stuff that are actually needed right now which will take priority.
 

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You were right. They said since they don't make them for that size I can run whatever I want. Funny thing, the guy I talked to from Vortex even recommended Spears Racing for the 415 chain/sprocket kit, so I'll be doing that at some point this year. There are other stuff that are actually needed right now which will take priority.
Dont forget to mention you race @SpearsRacing.....to get teh racer discount (may need to show racer id or something)
 

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Hands down a great mod! I have then on sale. 15-16-17-18 fronts and whatever rear. DID chain. Best bang for the buck. We had a ccs guy run our first kits several years ago on a 250 ninja. No chain problems. And several CMRA endurance teams with the r3 have run them with zero problems. You do need to be on top of proper chain maintenance as the SUPER awesome spears guy mentioned!

http://www.speedmotoco.com/415-chain-kit-sprocket-s/125.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I've asked this before in a different thread but can't find it now...for those of you that are using 415 chains, how often should you replace them? I've been told they stretch quicker and that's no joke apparently. I only put about 25 laps on my bike at most and there was a noticeable change in slack in the chain after that. It was brand new, and I already have to adjust it a bit. How many times do you adjust the tension before you throw it away and replace it?
 

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I think I've asked this before in a different thread but can't find it now...for those of you that are using 415 chains, how often should you replace them? I've been told they stretch quicker and that's no joke apparently. I only put about 25 laps on my bike at most and there was a noticeable change in slack in the chain after that. It was brand new, and I already have to adjust it a bit. How many times do you adjust the tension before you throw it away and replace it?
A good judge to see if the chain stretched a lot is try to pull it off the rear sprocket. If you see daylight, then its about time to toss it.

Here's my review link for the 415 Spears chain kit....I highlighted that I'm cleaning/lubing every 2-3 session at the track, after every race also. I check slack every half day and tighten as needed. One thing I noticed is that I use a screwdriver between the chain and rear sprocket when I tighten the axle. Once I'm done with this, the chain feels a bit loose, but I think that works the best for me. Slack is def ~1.5-2" play after I tighten the chain. When I go tighter, the rear suspension binds a lot and bike moves around a lot as a result on heavy acceleration.

http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/329-yamaha-r3-reviews/132097-spears-415-chain-kit-review.html
 

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I love the nimbleness you feel as you reduce driveline and rear wheel moment of inertia on a motorcycle. But, being a street rider and NOT a racer, I naturally want to keep my chain adjustment, cleaning and lubrication, and replacement cycles to practical levels.

Depending on weather (I live on rainy Vancouver Island) and personal schedule commitments, I do anywhere from 2400 kilometers (1500 miles) to 4800 kilometers (3000 miles) per year on my motorcycle. I ride pretty conservatively in terms of throttle use. Because of the windy and hilly nature of Vancouver Island, all the roads except Hwy 19 are 40 to 50 mph roads, and even on Hwy 19, which is posted at 120 kph (72 mph), I ride at about 100 kph (62 mph). I just like the nimbleness of a small displacement bike that has been optimized for quick versus sluggish driveline response, via lightweight tires, lightweight driveline, lightweight brake rotor, etc.

If I went with the 415 Spears kit on my R3, roughly how often am I likely to need to do chain adjustments, and roughly how many kilometers or miles am I likely to get before I need to replace the chain and sprockets?

Jim G
 

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Had 1 chain pop off the sprockets this past weekend at chuckwalla. Luckily not mine and no damage to the riders engine case :)

Like everyone else said, they just need to be more vigorously maintained. The rider mentioned it was a little on the looser side before it popped off.

Also, the 250 Ninja guys have been running a 415 for a while now and I never really heard anything negative about them.

EDIT:: just realized how old this thread was haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Had 1 chain pop off the sprockets this past weekend at chuckwalla. Luckily not mine and no damage to the riders engine case :)

Like everyone else said, they just need to be more vigorously maintained. The rider mentioned it was a little on the looser side before it popped off.

Also, the 250 Ninja guys have been running a 415 for a while now and I never really heard anything negative about them.

EDIT:: just realized how old this thread was haha.
Yeah I just replaced mine the other day. Honestly it still looked OK, but based on a few stories I've heard, I decided to replace it. I figured I'll just do 1 season for every chain. This year I only had to adjust it once I believe, early on, after that it was fine. I'm sure it would've lasted a while, but a chain is much cheaper than an engine case :)

I had a friend pop one on his ninja 300, and that was a 520 chain!! It pretty much destroyed the left engine case...thankfully the belly pan collected all the oil as it's supposed to. Reason for the failure was actually an issue with the master link. Not sure if the clip came off or what happened.

While we're on this topic, do you know what that really sticky grease is that the DID chains come with? It's annoying AF! Are you supposed to go with that or clean it off as much as possible? I can't remember what I did last year with my first 415 chain.
 

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If I went with the 415 Spears kit on my R3, roughly how often am I likely to need to do chain adjustments, and roughly how many kilometers or miles am I likely to get before I need to replace the chain and sprockets?

Jim G
http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/329-yamaha-r3-reviews/132097-spears-415-chain-kit-review.html

My review above shows mileage and condition of chain, maintenance I did to keep it in good shape.

I have used one set of chain/rear sprocket size (one chain for 57 teeth, one for 56 and one for 55 teeth). I used them all last season with 4 rounds of racing, 5 races in each round, multiple practice days and trackdays (>20). I'm sure I can use them another half-full year, as long as I check slack every 2 sessions, lube and clean every 2 sessions. But it takes work to keep them that long. If you try to pull them off rear sprocket and you see daylight, its stretched and probably needs replacement soon.
 
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