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600 Mile Oil Change

5697 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  YamahaR3
R3 is going in today for a 600 mile oil change and a new set Pirelli Diablo Rosso II tires. Then it's 500 more miles of keeping it under 8400 RPM.
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Nice! Keep us posted on those tires, and how 8400 RPMs feel >=] I'm at 400 miles, still need a little bit >.<
Why keep it under 8400? Are you just being extra conservative? The manual states avoid prolonged operation above.
Am I the only one here who did a hard break in and have been riding it at all rpm ranges? I just try to avoid sitting at a constant rpm and minimize high rpm time.. but I have been having a lot of fun giving it some gas. Currently right under 300 miles..
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I also am in a hard break in.. and I am at 600kms Keeping it below 10k but keeping the rpms all over the place. under 6 gear loads and 1 gear loads etc (full throttle)
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Am I the only one here who did a hard break in and have been riding it at all rpm ranges? I just try to avoid sitting at a constant rpm and minimize high rpm time.. but I have been having a lot of fun giving it some gas. Currently right under 300 miles..
Same here, been riding it like I stole it, but minus a couple notches.
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Am I the only one here who did a hard break in and have been riding it at all rpm ranges? I just try to avoid sitting at a constant rpm and minimize high rpm time.. but I have been having a lot of fun giving it some gas. Currently right under 300 miles..
Nope, did my hard break-in during my first week of ownership lol. At 1200+ miles now.
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I feel that the first 600 miles are crucial because of the contamination of the oil from steel dust that winds up in the oil and filter. But I guess I am old fashioned when it comes to dealer recommended break-in periods.
It's pretty common to see engines go straight from the build bench to the dyno....

There was a time when strictly following recommended break-in was critical - with better materials, tolerances, lubricants and manufacturing processes that's not so much the case now. As long as you vary the rpms and not pin it right out of the box, you'll probably be fine. $0.02
I feel that the first 600 miles are crucial because of the contamination of the oil from steel dust that winds up in the oil and filter. But I guess I am old fashioned when it comes to dealer recommended break-in periods.
I'm the same way. I've been taking it easy on my new R3. Keeping the RPM's under 8k for the first 600 miles. After I do the 600-mile oil change, then it's time to let her RIP!

:laugh:
I feel that the first 600 miles are crucial because of the contamination of the oil from steel dust that winds up in the oil and filter. But I guess I am old fashioned when it comes to dealer recommended break-in periods.
I read into this a while back and it made sense to me.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

On top of that, there are plenty of videos of factories running the engines.
I read into this a while back and it made sense to me.
I agree with some of the points mentioned in the article.
It's true, modern engines don't really "wear-in" like older engines used to. The article seemed to focus on "rings" mostly, but there are other parts of the engine that also break-in. ( Cam lobes, bearing surfaces, etc. ) How you choose to break-in your new engine is not that critical, as long as you don't make the obvious mistakes. It's easier to list what NOT to do, so here it is:
1. Do not romp on a COLD engine. Warm it up before you take off.
2. Do not LUG the engine. Let it smoothly rev up. Keep it in the right gear.
3. Make sure it doesn't overheat. It cools when it is moving, so keep it moving.
4. Keep it away from the rev-limiter. Don't rev-bomb it at stoplights!
5. Keep a close eye on the oil level. Don't run it low on oil.

That's about it. Treat it right, it should last a long time.
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I think Stirz and CBR pretty have it nailed. Breaking in is not as critical as it used to be. In fact 90% of break in occurs in the first 10 miles you drive it. I remember on my Majesty 400 I changed the oil and filter at 20 miles. I kid you not. It has a canister type filter that you can see what's in it. Full of iron filings. Changed it again at 200 miles or so. Nothing. And nothing after that. It now has 25,000 miles on it so that proves that after the first few miles, the engine is broken in.
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