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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SO I just almost burnt my entire airbox just to get the **** airfilter out. That is how frustrated I got.

I initially put in the correct size screwdriver it was brand new. nice and sharp heads. first turn ruined the screw. no joke. 2nd screw, same, 3rd screw same.

bet thing to do. remove the airbox completely. remove all left fairings, coolant reservoir
Disconnect fuel line and fuel pump plug. at the airbox end. remove the 3 hoses hooked up to airbox , also the vent tubes that are attached to the bottom of fuel tank, are heated on and shrunk, so dont try to remove it. follow the small one down the left to near the coolant reservoir. it joins with another hose there. it is much easier to remove it there. the bigger one that goes to the right side. also is joined near the airbox with another hose. remove that one there as well. Then remove tank,
next loosen the 2 clamps on the Individual throttle bodies. on THE AIRBOX SIDE dont take it off engine side. they have fragile Orings so DONT . loosen those clamps with small allan key. now there are 2 10mm bolts that hold the airbox in place near the rear shock one on left the other on the right easy to find.
once all that is done. its wedged in good. so figure out the angles , and lift the airbox out.

here is why I suggest this. once the air box is out. sit it on the ground, apply your screw driver into the screws DOWNWARD. that way you get better seat with the screw driver. doing it on a stand horizontally wont give you enough, and it will only frustrate you

for me I had to remove the airbox as I needed to dremmel the screws. to get a big Flat head in there. and even then they were cracked on so tight. it took A LOT

I did all of this so you dont have to!
In the end . K&N installed, and crappy paper, wet, old and little moldy airfilter IS GONE

also did anyone notice the little airfilter check hose. mine had some oil in it. is that normal?
 

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Wow you totally went on a different route their buddy, actually you just made a whole new step on taking the air filter out. (kidding) Seriously the screws on the air box are really soft, had to use a screw extractor just to get mine out and replace them with an SS hex bolt.


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Mine came out really easy. In fact out of all bikes I've had so far, this is by far the easiest one to take the air filter out. Just 3 screws on the left side and you're in.
 

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Mine came out really easy. In fact out of all bikes I've had so far, this is by far the easiest one to take the air filter out. Just 3 screws on the left side and you're in.


I guess i got lucky too, It was very simple. The three screws backed right out. None if the screws on my bike were very tight from the factory. My dads cbr650f sucks to pull the filter. Need to pull a few side cowls and lift the tank up. The r3 is extremely easy to do


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I guess i got lucky too, It was very simple. The three screws backed right out. None if the screws on my bike were very tight from the factory. My dads cbr650f sucks to pull the filter. Need to pull a few side cowls and lift the tank up. The r3 is extremely easy to do


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Yep, same with my CBR500. PITA on that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Holy crap.... what a nightmare. It sounds like you took the entire bike apart working around the air filter from the outside in until there was nothing left but the filter. ROFL
those screws were so stiff. I could have thrown them into Mordor and they would have survived. PITA

in the end K&N installed, much more responsive (probably just from new airfilter in general. the old one was pretty gross
 

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So, I just tried to install my BMC air filter... and the first two screws backed off easily, third screw on bottom left stripped on first turn! These must be screws made with clay! Tried using torx head, several philips of varying sizes and no luck. Dealership wants $65 to remove screw, but for that much I cn go buy a cheap drill and extracting bit with money left over.

Ugghhhh!!
 

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also did anyone notice the little airfilter check hose. mine had some oil in it. is that normal?
I can't concretely answer that, but don't most bikes have an oil fume recirc into the airbox (to burn oil vapor). Many bikes have collected excess oil in the airbox due to this, not sure about the R3 setup though, I've been in there but didn't take note.
 

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You all have me curious now... I'll have to look at mine.
I'm wondering if these are cheap screws or if they're JIS screws.

That's my guess and if that's the case, people are just using the wrong tool for the job. People have been mistaking them for US Phillips head screws all along.
You just need the correct drivers....

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megad...TF8&qid=1490931801&sr=8-2&keywords=JIS+driver
I don't know, I find it a bit odd. I took mine off with a regular philips screw driver. All 3 came out just fine. Then I put them back on with the same screw driver, twisted the crap out of it and didn't round off either of them. Worked just fine.
 

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You all have me curious now... I'll have to look at mine.
I'm wondering if these are cheap screws or if they're JIS screws.

That's my guess and if that's the case, people are just using the wrong tool for the job. People have been mistaking them for US Phillips head screws all along.
You just need the correct drivers....

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megad...TF8&qid=1490931801&sr=8-2&keywords=JIS+driver
You may be right, but I'm telling you the first two came off with no effort, the third stripped so quick it was scary. I put the first two back in with the same driver...???
 

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From what I can tell, unfortunately the 300 class bikes in general are known to have lighter weight soft metal bolts and screws that can demolish from time to time. Having said that, so far I haven't done so on either my past Ninja 250 or current R3.
 

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A tip I got from a vintage Japanese motorcycle website -
If you blunt the tip of a Phillips screwdriver with a file it will work better on a JIS screw. Not as good as the proper tool, but better.


My guess would be that any screw from a Japanese factory in Asia would be JIS rather than Phillips.


My approach to both is the same. Get them out with an air impact gun and replace them with Allen head bolts. I have done that on 1960's Japanese bikes and a '67 Triumph to the horror of vintage purists. Function before form, always.
 
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