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Discussion Starter #1
Recently picked up a used Akrapovic full exhaust for a good price, however discovered that the bracket on the pipe where the O2 sensor is located is broken.

A friend suggested that i just run it with the can attached at the hanger mount as the pipe is really light, however I'm worried about the stress at the header mounts. Is this something that any (good) welder should be able to do? Can anyone in NYC suggest a good place that does this work?

Thanks much in advance!
 

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Hi, my bike came with the full Akro exhaust too but to be honest I am not a fan of it...it is just too loud. But as for mounting the exhaust I do not recomend leaving that exhaust hanging on the headers. There is too much stress on the headers if you were to mount it like that, especially if you hit a bump. Weld it in place, in the big apple there are many shops that'll do that for dirt cheap. Bring it to any shop and they'll probably be more than happy to weld those 2 pieces together at a fairly low price.
 

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I am a professional Pipefitter/welder with 30+ years experience. (I'm a Pipefitter/welder in the heating/cooling world, not motorcycles) If you can get the material type from Akropovic, an experienced TIG welder should be able to help you. My guess is that even if you have the "Titanium" system, the headers are probably stainless steel. That's the way my Akrapovic Titanium system is on my FZ-07. If it is a grade 304 stainless, it gets welded with 308, or 308L filler rod. If it's grade 316 stainless, it gets welded with 316, or 316L filler rod. My advise, is don't look for the cheapest shop. Ask to see some of their work on stainless steel. If it doesn't look as good as the OEM welds, walk away. Exhaust headers are thin (to save weight), an inexperienced welder can make your exhaust system worse if the blow holes in it from welding it too hot. If you pull the exhaust system off for the repair (which any "good" shop would ask you to) ask them to secure it to a workbench for all the welding, AND cooling down. Stainless steel warps during welding, and especially during the cooling down!!! The best way to control that warping, is to secure it so it so it doesn't have a chance to warp in the first place. Hope that helps, good luck-
 

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Thanks for the replies to the both of you, I agree regarding the stress on the headers and have already decided to get it repaired. I'll take the pro advice @cornerslider and be on the lookout for a good welder. Happy Thanksgiving to you both and the rest of the community!
 

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One other critical thing I totally forgot to mention (it's second nature to me)...... Make sure they "purge" the header with Argon!!!! Argon is the same shielding gas they will be using to weld it. If you don't purge the inside during welding, there is a 100% chance it will "sugar" on the inside of the header. When stainless is heated, and exposed to the oxygen that is in the atmosphere, it crystalizes on the inside of the header into lumps that look like "sugar". These lumps will be the weak point in the repair, cause a slight exhaust restriction/turbulance inside header, and "may" cause another failure at that weld. Good luck, and let us know how it tuns out-
 

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Ha, it’s actually been pretty difficult to find someone in my town that will weld on stainless steel. I’ll need to branch out a bit and keep this thread posted
 

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@cornerslider, sorry I meant to PM you but apparently i'm a few posts short of being allowed to do so. I was wondering, you just seem to know your stuff, if I shipped the exhaust out to you would you do this work? If not, would you have any ballpark amount this work would cost (realize it's MN vs NY)? You can PM back

Thanks for all the advice so far, it's much appreciated!

-Phil
 

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I don't have access to the equipment right now (I'm between contractors at the moment). As for cost, I would think $50-$75 would be fair. The time consuming part is the set up- securing it to the table, setting up the purge, etc. The actual welding is a five minute job. Maybe try to find a fabricator that does high-end sports car exhaust in your area? I know two of them in Minnesota if you can't find any locally. Good luck-
 

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Just thought I'd give a quick update out of courtesy. I have a hookup that will be taking a look and will stop by a machine shop to see what they quote me. Thanks everyone for the advice! This forum seems a bit barren and it was refreshing to hear from people.
 

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Just thought I'd give a quick update out of courtesy. I have a hookup that will be taking a look and will stop by a machine shop to see what they quote me. Thanks everyone for the advice! This forum seems a bit barren and it was refreshing to hear from people.
Good to hear!!! Take pictures, and let us know how the end product turned out-
 

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Good to hear!!! Take pictures, and let us know how the end product turned out-
Exhaust repair complete! Ended up $50 at a welding shop. It looks like a good job, hope those following will agree. He commented that the original welds looked a bit thin. As for purging the pipes he mentioned he couldn’t do that (wasn’t equipped) but I’ll deal. Thanks much to @cornerslider and @yamahar34life for the responses!
 

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I hope it lasts.... It looks like he got it too hot to me. Towards the end of the weld, you can see how the color changed. It got darker, and the surface looks crystallized (second pic). That's the "sugar" I was telling you about. If you can see it on the outside of the pipe, the inside has it worse. There is also a defect at the end if the weld that looks like tiny "witches hat"- that's called a "crater crack". That happens when it gets really hot, and cools too rapidly. It might be totally fine, and last you for many years- I'm a little OCD.... I also have experience as a AWS certified welding inspector. I worked in an oil refinery, where if a weld failed, stuff blows-up-
 

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I hope it lasts.... It looks like he got it too hot to me. Towards the end of the weld, you can see how the color changed. It got darker, and the surface looks crystallized (second pic). That's the "sugar" I was telling you about. If you can see it on the outside of the pipe, the inside has it worse. There is also a defect at the end if the weld that looks like tiny "witches hat"- that's called a "crater crack". That happens when it gets really hot, and cools too rapidly. It might be totally fine, and last you for many years- I'm a little OCD.... I also have experience as a AWS certified welding inspector. I worked in an oil refinery, where if a weld failed, stuff blows-up-
Duly noted and totally appreciate the honest opinions. I'm all for OCD, esp with your line of work where you don't want things to blow up ha. I didn't get a chance to look on the inside (don't know if i can but i'll try) but in the end, I didn't have too many choices (the hookup, who was an actual welder for auto headers, crapped out on me so this shop was the next best thing) and it was more important that I get the exhaust on properly so I can run the bike a bit before things get too cold (though I guess "too cold" is objective.. NY vs Minnesota, ha).

Thanks again cornerslider :)
 

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Duly noted and totally appreciate the honest opinions. I'm all for OCD, esp with your line of work where you don't want things to blow up ha. I didn't get a chance to look on the inside (don't know if i can but i'll try) but in the end, I didn't have too many choices (the hookup, who was an actual welder for auto headers, crapped out on me so this shop was the next best thing) and it was more important that I get the exhaust on properly so I can run the bike a bit before things get too cold (though I guess "too cold" is objective.. NY vs Minnesota, ha).

Thanks again cornerslider :)
Glad you got it sorted out, but this is an exhaust on a light bike, rest assured it will not blow up haha.
And cold? Pfft, I am in upstate NY just 3 hours from you and I'm STILL riding in 35 degree weather. Call me crazy, but sorry I just cannot give up riding for 3 months haha.
 

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it was more important that I get the exhaust on properly so I can run the bike a bit before things get too cold (though I guess "too cold" is objective.. NY vs Minnesota, ha).
Thanks again cornerslider :)
Thanks for the follow-up, disappointing when some forget to post the end result of an online conversation/recommendation. Pics of the exhaust on the bike?
 

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Thanks for the follow-up, disappointing when some forget to post the end result of an online conversation/recommendation. Pics of the exhaust on the bike?
Sure, here’s a pic from a few months ago... been working on it more on the maintenance side (cleaned calipers, chain, wheels, etc) and installed clipons and a Ktech Razor lite shock so it hasn’t changed much, though now I’m up to the point of getting the race plastics prepped.
 

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