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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

First, I hope I am posting in the correct section. I've been following the Forum for a little while (registered a few weeks ago) and first want to thank everyone for the wealth of information that can be found on here.

As the title states what is the best time to buy an R3? I've been thinking about this for a while I will be getting ready to buy soon (hopefully). Spoke with a coworker of mine who also rides and he noted that best time to buy is March/April due to other riders wanting to "upgrade" and thus giving me a better shot on getting a deal. Is this true? I'm looking dealer because not many R3s in my area.

Thanks for any info!
 

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As soon as the 2016's hit the floor you can likely scoop up a 2015 for cheap if you can find a dealer that has one (mine does). The other good time to buy is in the fall, when bike sales take a dive. Spring is the worst time to buy because everyone else is too. If you are looking for a used one, then spring is better for trade-in availability, but not necessarily lower prices.
 

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:crying: salvage title.

Just go buy at the end of any month. Go in a few days early and touch base if need be and be ready to walk away. If the weekend falls a few days before months end that is the time to buy. They will want the unit sold more than the profit. They pay for the bike on the floor month to month so they will take into account they wont have to pay yamaha to stock it.
 

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Spring and early summer is the worst time to buy from a dealership. Demand starts to peak for the season so prices skyrocket and dealers are much less likely to drop fees and stuff since they know if you don't buy the bike someone else will.

I wouldn't bank on the 2015 R3s dropping much in price at the dealership. If the Ninja 300 is any benchmark you can expect last year's model to drop maybe $500 while the 2016 bikes go for MSRP. Dealers might be willing to work on price and fees for a 2015 model but since the 2015/16 bike are pretty much exactly the same you won't see much of a price drop.

If I were you I would keep my eyes peeled for a used 2015 on your local craigslist, or even at your local dealership. You can save a ton of money buying used over new and still get a bike in fantastic condition. Same as with the dealerships, spring/summer will have higher prices but there will likely be more bikes available on the used market as people bring them out of storage or attempt to finance a new bike for the season.

I guess as far as best time to buy, it depends what you want. You should decide between a 2015 or 2016. If you want a 2015, see if you can buy one now used. Otherwise talk to your dealership and see where price you can get them to for a new 2015 compared to a new 2016, then go from there. At this point you can still benefit from low winter demand so I think buying now would be best if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I definitely know I want a 2015 model. I started off wanting brand spanking new but not so much anymore as I would rather use the money saved for quality gear. The dealership near has a Red/White with 270 on the odometer going for $4699 and another Red/White with 1212 on the odometer for $4599. I will go tomorrow to simply "inquire" about these.
 

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I definitely know I want a 2015 model. I started off wanting brand spanking new but not so much anymore as I would rather use the money saved for quality gear. The dealership near has a Red/White with 270 on the odometer going for $4699 and another Red/White with 1212 on the odometer for $4599. I will go tomorrow to simply "inquire" about these.
Only difference between those two is that the first bike is not broken in and the second one is past the first break in, approaching the second (or past the second, too?). While those mileages are essentially identical, you have no way of knowing if the second bike was broken in properly. Paying $100 more to do your own break in might give you some peace of mind and allow you to do it right, but you also have to suffer thought the break in period. Or you could pay $100 less and ride it hard right away and hope the other owner broke it in right. You definitely should ask for service records if you go for the second bike. The dealer has likely inspected it since its arrived but you'll want to know about the first 1200 miles too.

I would definitely push back on those prices, too. Those are a good deal for a used R3 if no fees are attached, but I paid just over $5k for my brand new one. you might be able to work the price lower when the 2016s hit the floor. Also check out craigslist for local used options. That salvage title one is a no-go for sure but you might find other good deals that can save you a few hundred bucks.
 

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Only difference between those two is that the first bike is not broken in and the second one is past the first break in, approaching the second (or past the second, too?). While those mileages are essentially identical, you have no way of knowing if the second bike was broken in properly. Paying $100 more to do your own break in might give you some peace of mind and allow you to do it right, but you also have to suffer thought the break in period. Or you could pay $100 less and ride it hard right away and hope the other owner broke it in right. You definitely should ask for service records if you go for the second bike. The dealer has likely inspected it since its arrived but you'll want to know about the first 1200 miles too.

I would definitely push back on those prices, too. Those are a good deal for a used R3 if no fees are attached, but I paid just over $5k for my brand new one. you might be able to work the price lower when the 2016s hit the floor. Also check out craigslist for local used options. That salvage title one is a no-go for sure but you might find other good deals that can save you a few hundred bucks.
That said, there is no way to tell if the lower mileage one wasn't abused before the "break in mileage". In other words, just because it hasn't hit break in mileage yet doesn't mean it can't be broken. Doesn't mean anything is wrong, I myself bought 94 mile used bike, it just means not guarantees.

Those prices are a good deal if it's out the door. If not, just as you said, it's not much lower than brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That said, there is no way to tell if the lower mileage one wasn't abused before the "break in mileage". In other words, just because it hasn't hit break in mileage yet doesn't mean it can't be broken. Doesn't mean anything is wrong, I myself bought 94 mile used bike, it just means not guarantees.

Those prices are a good deal if it's out the door. If not, just as you said, it's not much lower than brand new.
Yeah I highly doubt these are OTD. Will be visiting that dealership later this morning and just get some info. Since this will be my first motorcycle I want as much peace of mind as possible. If something goes awry I'd rather it do so knowing it started with me rather than guessing if it could've began with previous owner. I'll keep you guys posted!!
 

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Yeah I highly doubt these are OTD. Will be visiting that dealership later this morning and just get some info. Since this will be my first motorcycle I want as much peace of mind as possible. If something goes awry I'd rather it do so knowing it started with me rather than guessing if it could've began with previous owner. I'll keep you guys posted!!
Look into the Costco auto buying program if you go new. I used it on two kawasakis. Last I heard Yamaha is now doing it as well. Good savings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Best time to bu...

Now.
It's now.

So fellas I got it. Walked in there and it happened. Ended up brand new Black for $5900. This does include a both a rode side and tire/wheel service contract as well as a 3 year extended warranty. Skipped on the maintenance for now because part of getting this bike is I want to do a lot with my hands. I've seen an oil change/fluid change done and it seems doable. What do you guys think?

P.S. I am beyond excited. I took the MSF course last year and I made it a goal to get this bike and it has been achieved. Look forward to contributing to the community.
 

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Congrats! Did you use Costco? When I used them on both my Ninja 650's I got both bikes at around $200 below MSRP out the door. I also got a $200 (or was it 250?) Costco gift card both times.

Not sure if you got a good deal, since with Costco its pretty cheap. What does your road side and tire/wheel service include? If its tire changes then that might be good, as some people charge quite a bit. I typically do 2 tire changes per year.

Oil/filter/fluid changes are pretty easy, as is alot of other regular maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Congrats! Did you use Costco? When I used them on both my Ninja 650's I got both bikes at around $200 below MSRP out the door. I also got a $200 (or was it 250?) Costco gift card both times.

Not sure if you got a good deal, since with Costco its pretty cheap. What does your road side and tire/wheel service include? If its tire changes then that might be good, as some people charge quite a bit. I typically do 2 tire changes per year.

Oil/filter/fluid changes are pretty easy, as is alot of other regular maintenance.
Thanks :D ! I did not go the Costco way though I did look into it. The road side includes being stranded, no fuel, mechanical issues etc. Free towing was emphasized quite a bit. The tire/wheel service covers free tire replacement if i should get a flat or nail or somehow damage the wheel.
 

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Keep an eye out on craigslist, cycletrader and your local dealers websites, some times its not the time of year as much as how many units a dealer needs to unload. Sometimes large dealers get deals on bikes if they buy in volume and they blow them out with low mark up. My bike was on sale new for $3700, after all the BS set up fees and freight it was $4800 otd. Still a pretty good deal I think. They sold 3 of them in the 2 hours I was there. Fun bike center in San Diego 8 months ago.
 

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Keep an eye out on craigslist, cycletrader and your local dealers websites, some times its not the time of year as much as how many units a dealer needs to unload. Sometimes large dealers get deals on bikes if they buy in volume and they blow them out with low mark up. My bike was on sale new for $3700, after all the BS set up fees and freight it was $4800 otd. Still a pretty good deal I think. They sold 3 of them in the 2 hours I was there. Fun bike center in San Diego 8 months ago.
That is an awesome deal. Fun Bike usually is overpriced for the most part since they are such a large dealership.
 

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Thanks :D ! I did not go the Costco way though I did look into it. The road side includes being stranded, no fuel, mechanical issues etc. Free towing was emphasized quite a bit. The tire/wheel service covers free tire replacement if i should get a flat or nail or somehow damage the wheel.
I also purchased the extra wheel and tire protection but opted out of the roadside. Congrats on the purchase mate!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks
! I did not go the Costco way though I did look into it. The road side includes being stranded, no fuel, mechanical issues etc. Free towing was emphasized quite a bit. The tire/wheel service covers free tire replacement if i should get a flat or nail or somehow damage the wheel.
I also purchased the extra wheel and tire protection but opted out of the roadside. Congrats on the purchase mate!
Thank you! Taking delivery tomorrow!!
 

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That is an awesome deal. Fun Bike usually is overpriced for the most part since they are such a large dealership.
Yeah, normally they are. The original price they gave me OTD in October was $5,900. Was able to knock it down to about $4,500, probably could've gotten better pricing but I really wanted the bike.
 

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The best time to buy is when you have ALL the cash burning a hole in your pocket.


Never finance a Toy.
 
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