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Wow, I had no idea this was such a popular topic...

I like the Lust Racing method the best. It's the right approach but packaging probably limits options to a smallish range of values. When you change the linkage you change the wheel rate aka leverage ratio and that has knock on effects on spring rate selection and also damping.

I scanned thru the Ohlins catalog I have handy and these are some short shocks.

TL1000R 253mm
Honda APE50/100 261mm only 38mm travel
'13+ Honda CB500F 150mm <<< no way that's not a mis-print. I would believe 250.

One could take a commercial shock and if the factory were unwilling to machine the rod, pay someone to do it. You would need a custom rebound needle length. It's not that they "can't" it's that they don't want to create one-off parts for a market that is too small.

If someone wanted to put up money (gofundme?) to buy a JRI for example for the express purpose of trying to alter it to size I'd be willing to help out with a donation of money and the machining side. Any candidates within reasonable proximity to NoVA?
 

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Wow, I had no idea this was such a popular topic...

I like the Lust Racing method the best. It's the right approach but packaging probably limits options to a smallish range of values. When you change the linkage you change the wheel rate aka leverage ratio and that has knock on effects on spring rate selection and also damping.

I scanned thru the Ohlins catalog I have handy and these are some short shocks.

TL1000R 253mm
Honda APE50/100 261mm only 38mm travel
'13+ Honda CB500F 150mm <<< no way that's not a mis-print. I would believe 250.

One could take a commercial shock and if the factory were unwilling to machine the rod, pay someone to do it. You would need a custom rebound needle length. It's not that they "can't" it's that they don't want to create one-off parts for a market that is too small.

If someone wanted to put up money (gofundme?) to buy a JRI for example for the express purpose of trying to alter it to size I'd be willing to help out with a donation of money and the machining side. Any candidates within reasonable proximity to NoVA?
I had contacted Lust Racing - unfortunately the R125 links won't work for the R3 but they asked about how much I'd want my bike lowered. For me it would be at least an inch.

But the ideal would be something like the adjustable links I've seen for the CBR 250. Surely something like that can be made for the R3? Why does this have to be so expensive?
 

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Found another option!

http://www.whaccessories.com/images/LoweringKitER.jpg

Apparently this replaces the spring plate (the pic is not 100% like the one on the R3 but apparently they are similar). After replacement, it lowers the bike 30mm. $185 US.

There are instructions on their site but they aren't very good. Does anyone know how to disassemble the stock shock? Do you need a spring compressor?

This company is based in Glendale, AZ in the US so that is also a good thing. If it lowered the bike by 30 mm, not sure I'd even necessarily need to cut the kickstand.

Waiting to hear back from the company about how this works exactly.
 

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28" inseam, my experience with my new R3

I've read through this whole fantastic thread, thanks for all this great information! Once I knew I could lower the R3 one way or another, I bought one on Wednesday. This is my third bike: I learned on my beloved Ninja 250 (Donatella) with lowering links, a custom Corbin seat, lower profile tires, and Daytona Lady Star boots. I bought a Bonneville, with a custom shock sprung for my weight (110 lbs) and bar risers, different bar and levers, replaced exhaust with carbon fiber to lose weight...in other words, I've had to modify every bike - even my scooter.

My hubbie suggested I hold off ordering the T Rex link until I had the R3 in the garage. I didn't want to wait to ride, but I did it to humor him since we were spending the cash on the bike....I was positively certain I would need to lower the bike at least an inch. Hopefully just an inch.

I can not believe it, but I can ride the R3 totally stock. Very very happily!!! I don't even want to change to a lower profile tire right now. I don't completely flat foot the bike, but I have more than the ball of my foot down on both sides. I'm not sure, but I think the seat and tank are beautifully narrow. I use my Daytona Lady Stars for an extra 1" or so, and yes - they are an expensive boot. But I have worn them for several years and they are in great shape.

Just thought I'd share that I'm 5'2", 110 pounds, have a 28" inseam, don't like to wrestle with my bikes and I'm not averse to trying whatever it takes to make my bike fit ME...and the R3 is perfect for me without any mods. It's great to know that it can be lowered, but you might be pleasantly surprised!

I am in total love with this R3. Her name is Yoko. I am so so very glad I didn't buy another Ninja. I had my heart set on the KTM 390 but I couldn't swing my leg over it. At all. I have adjustable levers coming to fit my small hands, but I can ride without them.
 

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Hello everyone! I'm a newbie to the forum but I bought my r3 about 3 weeks ago. I'm glad I found this forum because like some I also need my bike lowered since I'm a little shorty ?.

I bought the lowering links from t-Rex racing, I have yet to receive them since I ordered it on Saturday. I was just wondering if anyone else on this forum has ordered the lowering links as well and if anyone out there maybe has instructions on how to install them. Thanks so much!
 

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Hello everyone! I'm a newbie to the forum but I bought my r3 about 3 weeks ago. I'm glad I found this forum because like some I also need my bike lowered since I'm a little shorty

I bought the lowering links from t-Rex racing, I have yet to receive them since I ordered it on Saturday. I was just wondering if anyone else on this forum has ordered the lowering links as well and if anyone out there maybe has instructions on how to install them. Thanks so much!
 

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Hello everyone! I'm a newbie to the forum but I bought my r3 about 3 weeks ago. I'm glad I found this forum because like some I also need my bike lowered since I'm a little shorty :)

I bought the lowering links from t-Rex racing, I have yet to receive them since I ordered it on Saturday. I was just wondering if anyone else on this forum has ordered the lowering links as well and if anyone out there maybe has instructions on how to install them. Thanks so much!
 

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Hey for everyone interested in lowering their bike (and maybe you haven't decided what to do yet), if you can wait, you can send an email to the folks at Lust Racing. They are going to develop one for the R3 but want to know how much we would want to lower the bike. For me, 1" would be perfect. See my email below:

Dear Chris,

Thank you for contacting LUST Racing.
The T-Rex part appear to move the shock mount in order to lower the bike.
We have the intent to develop a lowering kit for the R3, but it is very busy right now with several
new kits for 2016 models. But yes, we can confirm we have the intent to develop a lowering kit for
also for the R3. Normal suspension links will not work as the bike does not have any suspension links.
In such cases we often make modification kits to the shock. Which solution we go for
will be determined by our product development.

Those interested in a kit, can send us email and also mention by how much they ideally would like to lower their bike. We can notify when we have a kit available.

Best Regards,

Frank
Customer Service



Lust Racing Ltd / Admin
81 Tennison road
London
United Kingdom

+44(0)208 7681 746
+44(0)208 7681 746


[email protected]
www.lustracing.co.uk
 

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So I attempted install of the T-Rex lowering kit last night on our 2016. On the right side of the shock mount, the gap between the shock mounting tab and the swaybar is physically too small to fit the right side link bracket through. Also tried fitting the left side bracket over the left mount and it was really tight and I couldnt get it to seat. if I jammed it by sucking the bolt down, maybe. Anyone else have issues like this? Wondering if I have to grind the opening of the right bracket just a little to fit through that gap.
 

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So I attempted install of the T-Rex lowering kit last night on our 2016. On the right side of the shock mount, the gap between the shock mounting tab and the swaybar is physically too small to fit the right side link bracket through. Also tried fitting the left side bracket over the left mount and it was really tight and I couldnt get it to seat. if I jammed it by sucking the bolt down, maybe. Anyone else have issues like this? Wondering if I have to grind the opening of the right bracket just a little to fit through that gap.
I can't advise you on the R3 as I'm running stock height, but I can tell you that the lowering link that I got for the Yamaha FZ6R required that I grind the link about 0.5 mm ... it was supposed to be a drop-in fit, but it just wouldn't.
 

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I've actually taken the time to read through this entire thread, and just want to say thank you for everyone who has contributed. I am looking at getting a 2016 R3 for my wife as she is 5'2" with a 26" inseam. She can tiptoe on both sides, but is not comfortable enough for us to buy it for her yet. It will need to be lowered if it is to work for her. Found a great Yamaha dealership with certified Yamaha techs near me that will do the lowering if I provide the parts. They ball parked it at around 4-6 hours, so around $400-$600 for labor. Would rather have them do it then do it myself for convenience more than anything.

My question is to all those who have lowered their R3. How much lower did the seat drop compared to stock? For wife to be able to feel safe, confident, and comfortable she probably needs it lowered 4-6 inches. Am also looking to see if anyone knows the back tire can be stretched to bring seat down some. The goal is to lower the seat without losing too much ground height. If it means finding someone to do custom work so be it. She needs to feel comfortable on it and ride safe as well. She is a first time rider.

On a side note, I'm 6'5", 250, 36" inseam, with a size 14 boot. I was surprised how comfortable it felt sitting on the R3. Not my preference and I look a bit odd on it, but compared to the Nighthawk 250s and Buell 450s I had to use in safety training classes....not bad. I could ride it without too much issue when needed or wanted.
 

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I've actually taken the time to read through this entire thread, and just want to say thank you for everyone who has contributed. I am looking at getting a 2016 R3 for my wife as she is 5'2" with a 26" inseam. She can tiptoe on both sides, but is not comfortable enough for us to buy it for her yet. It will need to be lowered if it is to work for her. Found a great Yamaha dealership with certified Yamaha techs near me that will do the lowering if I provide the parts. They ball parked it at around 4-6 hours, so around $400-$600 for labor. Would rather have them do it then do it myself for convenience more than anything.

My question is to all those who have lowered their R3. How much lower did the seat drop compared to stock? For wife to be able to feel safe, confident, and comfortable she probably needs it lowered 4-6 inches. Am also looking to see if anyone knows the back tire can be stretched to bring seat down some. The goal is to lower the seat without losing too much ground height. If it means finding someone to do custom work so be it. She needs to feel comfortable on it and ride safe as well. She is a first time rider.
Holy cannoli I had a bike shop lower mine with the T-Rex links for only $100! Dropped the bike 1.5". I am 5'2" as well with a 27-28" inseam. I am not flat-footed on the bike but the balls of my feet are firmly planted in my old combat boots (which need to be re-soled), with heels maybe an inch or 1.5" off the ground. I can completely flat foot on one side and still touch toes on the other. I'm looking into getting boots with a thicker platform and bigger heel, but I'm very comfortable with this height, even as a new rider. There was another 5'2" lady rider here who mentioned she was able to avoid lowering the bike altogether by wearing Daytona Lady Stars.

As an aside I was taking a 25mph zoned highway exit at ~45mph and I scraped the footpeg coming out of the turn. I don't know if this is the natural limit of the bike or the lowering has significantly reduced the clearance, so just a thought if you are thinking about taking the bike any lower.
 

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Lowering does reduce lean clearance (also requires kickstand adjustment usually). I could barely flatfoot the R3 when I bought it, but now I can flatfoot no problem, seems to have settled somewhat, more than I expected. My FZ6R didn't settle like that, though it was very stiff imo.
 

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Lowering does reduce lean clearance (also requires kickstand adjustment usually). I could barely flatfoot the R3 when I bought it, but now I can flatfoot no problem, seems to have settled somewhat, more than I expected. My FZ6R didn't settle like that, though it was very stiff imo.
Yeah when I demoed the R3 I had no problem riding it...it was a bit tall but I felt in control of the bike. When I got it new it felt much taller than the demo, and I ended up dropping it a couple times so made the decision to lower. Maybe when I have a couple thousand miles on it I will invest in those Lady Stars and get the suspension reversed; wanna be able to take it to the track.
 
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