Yamaha R3 Forums banner

Chain Lube and Tire Pressure PSA

9263 Views 20 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  matrix22
Rode the bike to work the other day, noticed that it felt really off. Turn in was sluggish, there was a strange squeaking noise coming from the gearbox that was related to engine speed, and I had crappy front end feel. "What's going on with my bike?" I thought. Paranoia sunk in and I was worried I'd have to take it to the dealership. But, like most things in motorcycling, I reminded myself it's probably either rider error or basic maintenance, so I decided to lube my chain and check my air pressure (the tire pressure specifically, since I had been neglecting checking that as often as I should).

After lubing the chain and adjusting the tire pressure, every issue went away. The bike felt like a goddamn samurai sword and I could flick it way harder and have so much more fun. So, in summary, if the bike feels like crap do these two things! When those ancient grizzled riders that you meet at gas stations tell you to do them, they really mean it.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
!!!!!
Tire PSI [Tyre KPA] is key! ALWAYS check your pressure, and regulate accordingly...
good call.
I ride a lot. Lube my chain every week. Check the air every week. More with a new tire. Only takes a few minutes and it could save your life. I check the tires if the bike has been sitting for a week too. Maybe the nitrogen fill the dealers are pushing is the way to go. Supposed to hold the air better, and not change pressure as the tire gets hot.
Tire pressure is one of the 'quirks' of owning a bike - you have to be almost religious about keeping on top of it - good diagnosis!
What do you recommend to lube the chain & best way to do that?
Man, I don't get it.

My bike, I check the tire pressure almost every week. It is always the same. Only reason I need to top it off is because everytime I check the pressure, a little air escapes, but for the most part, nearly a year and the tire pressure was always solid. No drops, nothing.

This gave me a false sense of security apparently.

I noticed my wife's R3 felt odd so I check the front tire and it is 20 psi after 1 month of last checking it! WTF. Looks like I have to regularly check the R3's tires...
Man, I don't get it.

My bike, I check the tire pressure almost every week. It is always the same. Only reason I need to top it off is because everytime I check the pressure, a little air escapes, but for the most part, nearly a year and the tire pressure was always solid. No drops, nothing.

This gave me a false sense of security apparently.

I noticed my wife's R3 felt odd so I check the front tire and it is 20 psi after 1 month of last checking it! WTF. Looks like I have to regularly check the R3's tires...
Could be an issue with the Indonesian-made tires, the cast wheels (porous castings), or maybe just a loose or defective valve in the stem
At the end of my post I did type out "difference between Indonesian (R3) and Japanese (FZ07) manufacturing?" but I deleted it, I would've thought it would be the actual tire themselves that may have issues and they are both Michelins. But I could see the chance that small inconsistencies in the rim manufacturing may also cause a problem.
Man, I don't get it.

My bike, I check the tire pressure almost every week. It is always the same. Only reason I need to top it off is because everytime I check the pressure, a little air escapes, but for the most part, nearly a year and the tire pressure was always solid. No drops, nothing.

This gave me a false sense of security apparently.

I noticed my wife's R3 felt odd so I check the front tire and it is 20 psi after 1 month of last checking it! WTF. Looks like I have to regularly check the R3's tires...

I think this is typical across any bike - I've had tires that held pressure forever, then one day, low - then good again for 6 months - go figure.
The R3 is begging for a 90° valve stem. It's a bit of a pain to check and add air.
The R3 is begging for a 90° valve stem. It's a bit of a pain to check and add air.
YES. That reminds me:

http://www.motodracing.com/angled-valve-stems

(or the like)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Has anyone tried these out (or something similar)? If they work, i'm ordering them yesterday.
Has anyone tried these out (or something similar)? If they work, i'm ordering them yesterday.
i bought ones that just attatch to the valve ebay special lol
they work fine
What do you recommend to lube the chain & best way to do that?
Honestly, this stuff made by Dupont. It's cheap, and works as a lube and cleaner in one. You go to a cycle store and you get half the product for 4 times the price.

Best part? You can get it at Wal Mart! 7 bucks a can! Can't beat it with a stick. The local cycle gear wanted 10 dollars for a can of cleaner and 15 dollars for a tiny little can of lube. WTF!! :eek:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/16672659?...3659408&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=104601404928&veh=sem
  • Like
Reactions: 1
HI

i would use bel ray chain cleaner first, not WD40.

Their is also motul chain cleaner.

I would then put maxima chain wax, or bel ray superclean chain lube.

Do it when chain is warm. I would do it after every wash, but i use water less cleaner as i dont want to fully wash bike with water every time. if it rains you should lube chain. Or after a wash.
i use s100 to clean my chain whenever its black and looking pretty dirty.
Then, dry it with a towel and maybe a 5 min ride around the street to warm the chain up before lubing it with muc off ceramic chain lube.

worked well for my previous bike
You can get a small air compressor for under $100, and then you can air your tires before every ride.

It's been my experience that some tire/wheel combinations hold air WAY better than others, and I've never noticed any particular reason for it. Maybe the rim got a tiny nick during mounting - maybe the sidewalls of one tire allow a little more seepage than another's - those are just guesses. I've had tires that would hold air for months, and tires that would drop five pounds or more in a week without a slow leak.


As far as chain lube - you might as well ask people how they plan to vote in the next election. :cool: There are as many opinions as there are riders. Just basically: any cleaning and lubing is better than no cleaning and lubing; it will be so much easier if you get a rear stand; and don't use any chemicals that can damage the O-rings (contact the chain manufacturer if you have questions - my R3 came with a DID chain but I don't know if they all do - but if you don't have information specific to your chain, err on the side of caution and don't use anything, including engine oil, that might damage the seals).
See less See more
After 1600 miles I've had to fill my tires once, they were both only a few psi to low. Guess I have a good set of wheels/tires.
Honestly, this stuff made by Dupont. It's cheap, and works as a lube and cleaner in one. You go to a cycle store and you get half the product for 4 times the price.

Best part? You can get it at Wal Mart! 7 bucks a can! Can't beat it with a stick. The local cycle gear wanted 10 dollars for a can of cleaner and 15 dollars for a tiny little can of lube. WTF!! :eek:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/16672659?...3659408&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=104601404928&veh=sem
Here's a review on this product:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-saver/
I clean my chain with kerosene first, dry it, then lube it.
Plus 1 on the DuPont Chainsaver. Used it on my GSXR, R1, FZ09, now on my R3. Best thing since Orgy Butter.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top