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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys, the shock absorber is adjustable from 1 - 7. based on what is best in choosing which number is best?
 

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I am 5'8", 165 Lbs., and I am about to go to 6 of 7.
5 isn't firm enough for my riding style. Trying to build it for the track, but haven't had it at the track yet...
The preload is ALL ABOUT your personal riding preference.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i had once a 'slip' feeling with the current preload when turning. what is best for confident in cornering?

I am 172 cm, 77 kg, pretty similar with you.
 

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I'm 6'1" 190lbs and I'm currently on setting #5 . I've been using that for a month and I'm fine with it. I came from a 600 sport bike and at first the r3 seemed squirrelly to me in the corners. What I finally came to realize is that I was fighting the bike because I was used to more weight and fatter tires. My bar input was too harsh for the nimble and light r3 causing the bike to dip, dive and shimmy. Loosen your grip, relax your elbows and shoulders in order to refine your counter steering input.

The r3 suspension does leave the bike more sensitive to road condition in the corners, so I've found myself scanning for even minor rough patches when I approach a corner. Certainly more than on my last bike.
 

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i had once a 'slip' feeling with the current preload when turning. what is best for confident in cornering?

I am 172 cm, 77 kg, pretty similar with you.
I believe a proper "sag" setting is 10-12 mm (3/8-1/2"). There's another thread on "race sag" with all the technical data. Think it's in the technical forum.
 

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If you're racing, you would want to set it to the firmest setting.

If you're commuting, you'd probably prefer a softer setting.


For commuting, the softest setting, without bottoming out is recommended.
I presume if you're 130LBS, setting 1 would suit you.
I also presume for commuting setting 5-7 is for riding with a passenger, or one heavier rider; or for lots of cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
why does racing want the firmest?

where and how do i count the position indicator?
 

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On the chrome ring underneath the spring there are little "ramped" notches. Notice if you turn the ring one direction it will compress the spring. This raises your "preload", whereby making your spring firmer. And vice-versa when you turn the ring the opposite direction.
You have a spanner wrench in your tool kit strapped underneath your rear seat. It's a crescent-shaped with a handle. You'll need that along with the little tube extension handle supplied in the kit. The tooth at the end of the crescent shape fits into little notches on the bottom of the adjustment ring. I found the adjustment ring easiest to access from the right side of the bike, from behind the rear brake master cylinder.
Your bike should have come from the factory set on 3 out of 7. 1 is soft, 7 is firm.
 

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Count the detent notches on the underside of the adjustment ring. Like I said, the factory default setting should be on 3 of 7.
 

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why does racing want the firmest?

where and how do i count the position indicator?
Sorry, I meant to say 'more on the firm side of the spectrum', not the firmest.
Because soft suspension feels wobbly at high speeds cornering.


The firmer the suspension, the firmer the bike will stay glued to the ground in a corner.
Also, racing on the track, the road supposed to be more smooth than on the streets, so you can afford firming up the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok, i set mine to 6. the further it goes the harder it is to turn it. 6 is hard, it stopped mid way, anyway anyone can check that my preload is sit correctly, not in between?

i like 6. i tested the spring by riding on a hump in my car park
 

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You are at six but I think you want it at the right side edge of six right after it clicked and not in the middle. I could be wrong
 

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Nah, it's fine. If it's not perfectly centered, it'll self-adjust after you hit enough bumps. You're ok. You'll never notice the difference. Promise.
 

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Position 1 is least preload - collar rotated fully clockwise as viewed from above. Generally, you set initial sag (with rider on bike) at about 1/3 of rear suspension travel. Measure length of shock (eye to eye) for bike alone. Measure eye to eye with rider on the bike (on a stand is helpful) - total shock travel is about 45 mm, so you're shooting for about 15 mm less length than for bike alone - more than 20? may want to add some preload (counter clockwise) - around 10? might want to reduce preload.

Opinions may vary, no warranties expressed or implied, use interweb advice at our own risk.
 

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I'm 5'10" at 160lbs, and I find that position 6 works well enough for my sporty rides. 7 is reserved for when I take wifey on rides. Even at 6, the suspension feels a bit too plush, though. On my GSXR, I took a lot of time measuring sag and adjusting preload, compression damping, and rebound, but the R3 doesn't have the advanced settings, so just go with 5 or 6. I think 1-4 would be far too mushy, even for a rider in the 110-130lb range.
 
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