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Hi guys,
I took my 2015 R3 out of storage and rode it a couple of times without servicing it and it looked extremely low on oil; so on the way back home from the second ride, I put around 750 mL of regular 10W40 as I couldn't get my hand on motorcycle oil at the time. I rode it home and as I tried to park it got stuck in gear. I managed to put it in neutral and turned off the car. I then did a oil/filter change and put motorcycle oil in. However, now I have a new issue that the clutch is completely loose with zero resistance on the cable. Any thoughts? Could the clutch go after only 30km of riding with bad oil? Is there something simple I may have missed?
Thanks
 

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2016 R3 / 2007 ZX-6R / 2008 Ninja 250
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Using a generic 10w40 oil designed for cars or trucks will ruin your clutch over time because they have friction modifiers that will cause a wet clutch to slip. If you didn't ride it like that for very long, your clutch might still be okay. If you are able, I'd recommend pulling the clutch out and degreasing all of the plates - then doing another oil change. That also gives you a chance to look at the clutch and see if it's fully worn.
 

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Hi guys,
I took my 2015 R3 out of storage and rode it a couple of times without servicing it and it looked extremely low on oil; so on the way back home from the second ride, I put around 750 mL of regular 10W40 as I couldn't get my hand on motorcycle oil at the time. I rode it home and as I tried to park it got stuck in gear. I managed to put it in neutral and turned off the car. I then did a oil/filter change and put motorcycle oil in. However, now I have a new issue that the clutch is completely loose with zero resistance on the cable. Any thoughts? Could the clutch go after only 30km of riding with bad oil? Is there something simple I may have missed?
Thanks
It's likely not an oil issue. More than a few owners are using regular oil with few issues. Motorcycle oil is mostly about adding shear resistance due to the trans tears. Most synthetics do fine with clutches, since modern variable cam timing engines run clutches in the valvetrain.

Does the clutch engage and disengage now, or it is it still stuck? Check the clutch cable and make sure it's adjusted properly. There is a spring that you feel in the lever, independent of the clutch itself. Next is the clutch release mechanism, which includes the lever and gear acted on by the cable, and the release bearing. Early R3s were recalled for bad release bearings, and a few track riders have experienced failures, which results in a stuck clutch and no lever response. Has your bike had the recall repair dine? If not, the release bearing is the likely culprit, and should be repaired by a dealer, since the recall is an official recall.
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A dealer can check if your bike was repaired under the recall. Otherwise, doing the work is fairly straightforward, but requires you have a service manual and some patience. Most likely, the bearing may have failed from sitting dry for a length of time. By the time any oil got to it, it was fried and failing.
 
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