Also to clarify, the bolt that the nut is attatched to is NOT spinning
Clutch lever nut spins forever?
I'm trying to replace it with some aftermarket stuff but I can't get the dang thing off. It just spins like a spinny spinner. What the ****?
Am I missing anything? Happen to anyone else?
Am I missing anything? Happen to anyone else?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Put pressure on the top part of the bolt. It's slotted and once it aligns, it will stop spinning. When you loosen the bottom but you need to keep pressure on the bolt head.
See also this thread: http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/713-yamaha-r3-how-diy/57042-how-turn-clutch-lever-locknut.html
The Search function is your friend.
The Search function is your friend.
Wrong locknut. He's trying to remove the lever, not the cable. Parts 12 and 15 on the fiche. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...asp?Type=18&make=yamahamc&a=829&b=42&Action=O
Hmmmmm though. If the nut is spinning independently of the bolt, but it won't come off, that says to me that the threads are stripped on one or the other, but the plastic sleeve of the locknut is still holding it all together. I'd try getting a pair of pliers on the nut so you can pull at the same time you're turning - and yeah, if the bolt wants to turn too, a little pressure on the head should be enough to hold it.
Taking the switch-gear off will give you better access to the lever perch, otherwise you'd need to be reaching in with needlenose pliers to get the tips on the locknut, not the best leverage.
And get the new parts ordered now to replace whatever's stripped.
Hmmmmm though. If the nut is spinning independently of the bolt, but it won't come off, that says to me that the threads are stripped on one or the other, but the plastic sleeve of the locknut is still holding it all together. I'd try getting a pair of pliers on the nut so you can pull at the same time you're turning - and yeah, if the bolt wants to turn too, a little pressure on the head should be enough to hold it.
Taking the switch-gear off will give you better access to the lever perch, otherwise you'd need to be reaching in with needlenose pliers to get the tips on the locknut, not the best leverage.
And get the new parts ordered now to replace whatever's stripped.
I have the same problem on mine, I'm so glad to find this post, I even thought something is wrong with the socket or rachet...
Would you mind sharing how did it go in the end? I have ordered the parts so hope to have it sorted then. Many thanks!
Would you mind sharing how did it go in the end? I have ordered the parts so hope to have it sorted then. Many thanks!
I just today changed my levers, so encountered that nut on the clutch pivot pin. Several factors combined things make that nut/pin combo easy to strip ("perfect storm"):
- You cannot actually see the nut while trying to engage it and get it started to PROPERLY thread, so it is very easy to crossthread
- You have to use your FINGERS, NOT a socket to get the nut properly started. A socket, unless PERFECTLY aligned, can easily start it "crossthreaded"
- The nut is very small and hard to hold
- The nut's "locknut" feature adds to the festivities by making it harder to engage the threads to start
- Because the nut is "recessed", you are forced to use a socket to tighten it, which lessens the degree of "feel" that you have on the nut
- The fairing gets in the way while trying to ratchet the nut with a ratchet unless it's a miniature ratchet
- The nut's small size and thinness means that even a LITTLE too much torquing will strip it very quickly
Be very careful. Use a socket with a very small ratchet so that you have as much feel as possible. And remember that this nut is VERY easy to strip, so use Loctite instead of too much torque, to secure it.
Jim G
- You cannot actually see the nut while trying to engage it and get it started to PROPERLY thread, so it is very easy to crossthread
- You have to use your FINGERS, NOT a socket to get the nut properly started. A socket, unless PERFECTLY aligned, can easily start it "crossthreaded"
- The nut is very small and hard to hold
- The nut's "locknut" feature adds to the festivities by making it harder to engage the threads to start
- Because the nut is "recessed", you are forced to use a socket to tighten it, which lessens the degree of "feel" that you have on the nut
- The fairing gets in the way while trying to ratchet the nut with a ratchet unless it's a miniature ratchet
- The nut's small size and thinness means that even a LITTLE too much torquing will strip it very quickly
Be very careful. Use a socket with a very small ratchet so that you have as much feel as possible. And remember that this nut is VERY easy to strip, so use Loctite instead of too much torque, to secure it.
Jim G
This happened to me last night as well. Brake lever went on fine, though I did realize over tightening that bolt causes the brake lever to stick.
The clutch lever has too much play compared to the brake. The nut looks like it can be tightened a little more but it spins no matter which way I try and move it. Hopefully I didn't strip it. Kinda t a loss right now. Going to a buddy's house to get a 2nd set of eyes hands on it.
The clutch lever has too much play compared to the brake. The nut looks like it can be tightened a little more but it spins no matter which way I try and move it. Hopefully I didn't strip it. Kinda t a loss right now. Going to a buddy's house to get a 2nd set of eyes hands on it.
This happened to me last night as well. Brake lever went on fine, though I did realize over tightening that bolt causes the brake lever to stick.
The clutch lever has too much play compared to the brake. The nut looks like it can be tightened a little more but it spins no matter which way I try and move it. Hopefully I didn't strip it. Kinda t a loss right now. Going to a buddy's house to get a 2nd set of eyes hands on it.
hmm, seems like a quite common bug on the bike. I just ordered new bolts for the clutch lever, hopefully I can get the ones off, or not at all.
Ya its stuck in a Position on mine that still works. I plan on trying to get the bolt off and switching the bolt with one like the brake has. Much better Imo.
I have the same problem. Any insight on the best way to get the nut and bolt off?
To those who are stuck on this as well, I loosen the handle bar bolt so I can access the nut, then use a jaw locking pilers to pull on the nut while turning it. Eventually, you will strip the nut enough to get enough space to put a flat screw driver in the space. Afterward, I strip the rest of the bolt and pull the nut out.
There should be a more effective way of doing this, but that's how I got the nut off.
There should be a more effective way of doing this, but that's how I got the nut off.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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