Yamaha R3 Forums banner

Do you guys always clean/lube after every single rain?

13480 Views 17 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Decon blue
I wonder what's the take on everyone's dealing with the rain? Do you guys lube or even clean it every time it rains? It is not too bad here in the bay area but it does rain often here during winter time(one last week, possible one tomorrow and then Saturday)
Compared to rainy city like Seattle it's nothing, but I wonder do you guys lube the chain every time with minor rain or even clean it as well? Or you'd still just do it for every 2weeks or so regardless(That's what I do for 2weeks being every 600miles anyway)
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
I just stick to my 600mi clean and lube.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I try and clean/lube it everytime after it rains or I'm dealing with a lot of moisture.
Some guys will wipe down everything every time it rains - or better yet if they are really anal about it, they don't ride in the rain at all, and keep it garaged (the garage queen).
Some guys beat the crap out of their bikes and never wash or lube it.
I imagine most of us are somewhere between.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
lol goodness no, i use my bike as an everyday bike doesn't matter how bad its raining cause its how i get to work, so i couldn't even imagine doing the chain everytime i barely even wash it now cause it gets dirty right away
  • Like
Reactions: 1
lol goodness no, i use my bike as an everyday bike doesn't matter how bad its raining cause its how i get to work, so i couldn't even imagine doing the chain everytime i barely even wash it now cause it gets dirty right away
That's exactly I'm at(commute to work daily with the R3) and it's been second time having minor rain this week already(a few minutes during the ride or while I'm at work that it parked in rain).
I did noticed the chain dried up a little after rain so I wondered how's everyone maintaining it. Replacing a chain is not a big job but losing power in middle of commute(broken chain)/ getting it towed/ stuck in middle of no where would suck
Why would you even need to clean/lube it after rain? Not trying to sound rude, i just don't understand why that would be a thing.

Most people seem to do it every 600mi or so. I know people who clean and lube it like once a year and have zero issues. I like to do it once every 3-4 weeks but that is just personal preference. I wouldn't worry about it after the rain, i have ridden in and left my bike out in rain plenty of times and have never touched the chain after and have not had the slightest issue.
Why would you even need to clean/lube it after rain? Not trying to sound rude, i just don't understand why that would be a thing.

Most people seem to do it every 600mi or so. I know people who clean and lube it like once a year and have zero issues. I like to do it once every 3-4 weeks but that is just personal preference. I wouldn't worry about it after the rain, i have ridden in and left my bike out in rain plenty of times and have never touched the chain after and have not had the slightest issue.
Once a year is stretching it don't you think? I guess it depends on mileage as well. I do 9000+ years so once a year for me would wreck my chains. I did manage to completely stretch out my N650 chain due to neglect. Less than 14k miles on that poor chain.
Once a year is stretching it don't you think? I guess it depends on mileage as well. I do 9000+ years so once a year for me would wreck my chains. I did manage to completely stretch out my N650 chain due to neglect. Less than 14k miles on that poor chain.
Oh I totally agree, I would never let it go an entire year without cleaning, lubing and tightening. I'm just not crazy about lubing/cleaning super frequently, i.e. after every time it rains. It just seems like a waste of time and materials to me,

However, you definitely should not go a year without tightening the chain unless you want to risk serious injury to yourself and damage to the bike, lol. It really should be tightened at least every 1-2k miles. I usually check the chain a couple times a month to be safe. I'm not anal about cleaning it but I am anal about it not being super loose and accidentally getting into trouble because of it, lol.
I try to clean and lube the chain If I had to ride in rain for considerable amount of time and if it is filled with mud etc.
Every 500 miles is fine. Dupont chain lube is cheap. Also, use some CorrosionX on an old tooth brush once/ year to further prevent rust. The chain on my CBR250R commuter lasted 14,000 including more than a few trips through salty slush in Syracuse. 14,000 more miles now on the replacement DID chain and it hasn't even needed an adjustment after the initial break in. I never "clean" the chain. Just lube. Wax/ teflon lubes shed dirt.
.
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
.
http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html
.
PS. Glad to hear you guys are riding your bikes to work. Represent for a sustainable future.
3
Yeah, I agree with what the consensus seems to be. No need to lube the chain every time. It's a waste. It doesn't hurt to wipe it down and keep it clean. I detailed cars as my job for 5 years after taking a year off after high school and during my time in community college and the period before I went into the Army after I got my Associate's degree.

I used to be totally anal after the Army but I have chilled out. It's partly a function of being so busy-work, grad school, IT certification exam training, personal life, riding, etc. Keeping everything clean and organize is time consuming. I am neat but not freakishly anal retentive.

So the moral of the story is that I am totally burnt out from detailing which is physically taxing and exhausting work. However, as much as I am sick of it, I detail my Mom's car, my car, and my girlfriends car regularly! I especially love cleaning my bike though. There is nothing like having a shiny and sexy bike!

While it was unsolicited, I'd like to share I a few pointers and recommendations. I could go off on methods and specific, but I will try to keep it simple and concise.

Have a mild car washing soap that wont eat into lubes and will not harm some of the lightly painted or surface parts of the bike. Sometimes, unless there is a lot of gunk, tar, bugs, oil, etc, you only need water to clean.

Get some quality terry cloths and do not use cheap rags that can scratch. Get some foam or cloth applicator pads and a vinyl bristled detailing brush for hard to reach crevices. There are several versions of quick spray detailing/paint clay lubricants chemicals. You use it for wipe downs to give it a shine but it is not wax. It is also used for lubricating clay bars which you use to remove impurities, overspray and gunk from pained surfaces. I recommend getting some detailing clay. Meguiar's or Mother's is good stuff for the price-it can be pricey. You can use tire shine/vinyl shiners, etc but be careful not to get it on your tire's surface of course. It's good for those plastic and vinyl non-painted surfaces to get them back to a shiny black and such. Degreaser is obviously good for leaked oil residue and tar and gunk from riding. Get a decent polish for buffing out scratches and a good wax to shine it up! I love Zymol ($$$) and Pinnacle wax but most carnauba based waxes from Meguiar's, Griot's, Mother's, etc is fine. Do not use a sealant.

So here is a basic list of chemicals and equipment:

-wax and protectant applicators (keep separated and labeled if possible-do not mix)
-detailing brush
-terry cloths
-chamois
-degreaser
-non-harsh and environmentally safe car wash detergent. Using something like Dawn diluted in water is cool.
-all-purpose like simple-green
-WD-40: great to wipe down a light coating on engine parts after cleaning which can look corroded after cleaning-be careful)
-vinyl and rubber protectant and shiner
-quick detailer
-clay bar
-light-medium polish (compound usually unecessary-if you get a gritty compound get a hand glaze to buff out compounding marks)
-carnauba wax
-glass cleaner
-metal polish

_R0b0tN1nja_BKNY Basic "DETAILING STEPS & GUIDE"

->PRE-WASH PREP (DEGREASE & DESCUM STAGE)
-degrease: areas below tire axle line where greasy substances will collect and gunk up
-de-scum: high dirt and scum area beneath seat line where majority of gunk will be
-check over serious areas of grease, oil, dirt buildpup. Now is a good time to check for leaks, etc.

_>BIKE BATH & WASH STAGE
-bike wash: wasH carefully with a good wash mitt, tire brush, and small brush for tight areas
Note: Chamois dry quickly as hard water can leave spots
-clay bar: warm clay in hand, and form it into a squarish "rag" for easy handling. "Clay" painted bike panels
one section/panel section at a time to focus on a specific area to adress & continue to work in sections. BReak
down large panels into smaller ones. Spray entire panel with quick detailer (name differs by brand) with even
and uniform misting of clay lube, clay entire perimeter & area of panel with even up/down + side to side
strokes using moderate pressure, wipe down with a terry cloth. Use harder pressure in areas with overspray
concetrated areas. NOTE: DO NOT DROP & GET SAND, ROCKS, ETC STUCK IN IT. You might be able to clean
it, but not likely. Likely a $20 piece of goo now. Feel paint. Should feel silky compared to previous unclayed
surface.
-polish each panel 1 at a time. Use a polishing panel with a quarter to dime drops worth of polish in rag & buff
excess with 2nd towel.
-wax on!: wax entire bike. If you use Zymol, do not let dry. Do a second coat for large exposed areas.
-vinyl/rubber seal and detail carefully-do not get on tire surface or painted areas!
-polish metal areas
-wax off! start removing wax starting on first panel waxed.
-clean up mirrors, windscreen
-Final checks: review bike, wipe of missed areas, 2nd coat of wax, etc
-Optional step: cold water "seal"-mist bike with cold water (put a spray bottle with water in fridge) which seals and carefully wipe off

I like 3M, Meguiars', Pinnacle, Zymol, and Mother's stuff. Some stuff can be pricey but they usually give a full spectrum of materials with varying performance and pricing matches.

Note: Quick detailers/clay lube: Mother's calls their's "Showtime" while Mother's calls theirs "Quick Detailer" and vary in name depending on manufacturer. Look at label which should suggest it uses as a quick detailing spray, clay lubricant, etc. That's what you want.

Was never really a fan of S100 stuff, but bought their motorcycle kit which is awesome for like $50. Got it due to good reviews on Amazon. You get pretty much everything you need in it and just have to find a few other odds and ends to make it complete. I was impressed with the results.

I am not affiliated with any brand in any way nor do I work in the car detailing or chemical industry. I am an IT geek.

S100 12000C Motorcycle Detailing Kit @ Amazon (I am not affiliated with S100 in any way)



I love Zymol but it is pricey. It can run you about $50-70 for their "cheap" stuff. They have stuff that run about $700 for like 20 oz to waxes in the thousand which is RIDICULOUS. They have paint type and country of origin specific type waxes. I love their Carbon for imports, Japon (Japanese vehicles) and Ebony for black paint waxes. The ebony wax is AMAZING for the Raven R3. Even if you spend $60 on a jar, you only use like less than a quarter of a tootsie roll's owrth of the wax on a medium sized car. The jar will last years which you should refrigerate.



HEre is the Zymol site. http://www.zymol.com/ Yeah, look at some of the crazy waxes. Insane, I cannot vouch for them, but I can for their cheap waxes which aren't cheap. This includes their Ebony, Carbon, Japon, Creame, and Rouge waxes. Ha! A jar of Carbon for imports will cost like $50-$60. I looked at Zymol's destiny wax, yeah, $882 for a jar. WTF! Check it out->http://www.zymol.com/destiny.aspx

Zymol actually has a motorcycle kit called "talon." It costs $77 which is reasonable IMHO but I have not tried it. If someone does, please do a review. I just got the S100, so that will keep me good for a while but I will definitely go with the Talon afterward if it stays at $77. Here is the link to the Talon Zymol mototrcycle cleaning and waxing kit->http://www.zymol.com/talon.aspx. Kind of freaking want it now.



Places like AutoZone carry some decent stuff, but you mainly have to order online if you want the good stuff. You bike is your baby so why not pamper it a bit or ask your lady for Zymol Talon, or for that matter, an $882 jar of Zymol Destiny wax for the holidays! I do not work or am affiliated with Auto-Geek, but they are my go to detailing chemical and supply eTailer. Highly recommend the, They are great, have a huge selection, tons of detailing tutorials and information on chemicals, etc. Can't go wrong with them.

If you need any pointers or recommendations, hit me up anytime via PM. I'd be happy to help. So basically, lube your chain as prescribed at the basic maintenance intervals and keep your bike clean and waxed as needed! IF you detail it well quarterly or about every 4 months, all you need to do is basic tidying up or spot cleanings in between the big detailing times.
See less See more
I talked with the manager of the local cycle gear and he said he knew someone who never lubed his chain and it eventually came apart.
I talked with the manager of the local cycle gear and he said he knew someone who never lubed his chain and it eventually came apart.
which camp are you guys in? The chain lube or chain wax camp?
Any. Just lube the **** thing. I use that yellow can from from Wal Mart. Works great. 6 bucks a can. Good enough for me.
Lube every 5 or 6 hundred miles is normally fine bur riding for 20 or more miles in moderate to heavy rain will wash the lube off the chain and it is a good idea to lube afterwards I learned that the hard way on trips to California and Montana. Sucks to have to interrupt a trip to replace chain and sprockets in the middle of nowhere.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Once a year is stretching it don't you think?
Pun intended?

As for me, I visually check my chain as a part of my pre-ride inspection and clean and lube every two to four weeks or so.

One thing I have noticed is that the OEM chain does seem to rust pretty quickly if it's not looked after. I'm looking forward to putting a decent quality chain on during my next chain and sprocket change.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: 1
OEM chain seems to surface rust the inner and outer links if not regularly lubed. The rust on inner links would eat up orings and grease loss will follow. Chain maintence is not rocket science. If money is no problem don't worry, but I clean and lube mine every couple hundred miles and if I get caught in rain I lube ASAP.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top