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Does your R3 need a diet?

8609 Views 16 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  R3-D3
As I was putting my track bike build together, I kept track of the weight of stuff that got pulled off and stuff that got bolted back on. During the crash diet phase, we managed to shed almost 80 lbs off the bike. To get back to race-legal and to add the go-fast bits, about 35 lbs were added. Final weight is approximately 45 lb below stock. Provided for your entertainment

Removed
Passenger Seat 1341 Tail Light Assy. 279 Mirrors 660 Mirror Hdwr. 83 Accessory Tray 72 Headlight Assy. 2231 Turn Signal Assy. 920 Horn 168 Rear Signal Assy. 1500 Front Signals 261 Front Upper/Windscreen 798 Side Fairing -Rt. 935 Side Fairing -Lt. 949 Lower Fairing -Rt. 288 Lower Fairing - Lt. 255 Chin Fairing 107 Inner Fairing - Lower 246 Inner Fairing - Upper 289 Fairing Hdwr. 156 Tail Fairing - Rt 308 Tail Fairing - Lt 504 Tail Fairing Hdwr. 28 Tail Trim 28 Seat Trim 101 Fork Reflectors 86 Left Pass Pegs/Hdwr 423 Elect. Harness Wrap 24 Kickstand Assy. 1224 Charcoal Can Assy. 532 Muffler 2568 Header/Cat 5255 Heat Shields 307 Exhaust Hdwr. 255 Rear Brake Switch Assy 36 Rear Brake Line Assy 143 Front Brake Line Assy 314 Banjo Bolts (4) 67 Battery 2734 Rearset/Right 930 Rearset/Left 712 Right Pass Pegs 452 Smog Pump/hose 215 Coolant OF system 268 Handlebars 1620 Shock 2999 Sprocket guard 140 Wire loom, horn brkt. 175 Left Switch Assy. 256 Seat 843 Chain Guard & Hdwr. 163 Rear Sprocket 777 Total 36025 79.35 (lb)

Installed
Upper and Windscreen 1636 Side Fairing - Rt 536 Side Fairing - Lt 516 Belly Pan 834 Tail Fairing - top 377 Tail Fairing - undertray 798 Rear Spools/Sliders 110 Muffler 1855 Headpipe 1136 Midpipe 618 Exhaust Hdwr. 187 Rear Brake Line Assy 73 Front Brake Line Assy 95 Banjo Bolts (4) 26 Battery 428 Rearset/Right 615 Rearset/Left 600 Toe Guard 102 Exhaust Bracket 234 Smog Plate 52 Clip Ons 700 Shock 2791 Seat 1058 Case Covers 198 Rear Sprocket 268 Total 15843 34.90 (lb)

I had an XL spreadsheet and pdf of same, but couldn't upload so you get the eye-blurring option.

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Thanks and nice write up and 45 lbs less in race trim! I know I need a DIET! could loose 25-35 lbs.
:laugh:
When all said and done, I will have lost about 18lbs from mine...
I could lose more, but mine is my street bike and I do NOT race...
When all said and done, I will have lost about 18lbs from mine...
I could lose more, but mine is my street bike and I do NOT race...
Mind putting up your list to help other street riders?
Biggest weight-shedders are exhaust and battery (15 lb).
Smog pump/cali can -1.5
Aluminum sprocket - 1.1
That's 17.6 right there. After that, handlebars and rearsets is another 3 lbs


Refer to OP for break-down (basic math skills required)
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I got my race bike down to 310 lbs with about a gallon of fuel in it. That was without trying to go to extremes to lose weight too, other than the 415 chain. Only reason I did the chain is because someone wanted my OEM chain and sprockets. Otherwise I would still have the OEM drive chain on. I would have changed the rear sprocket though.

Next year I am shooting for under 300 lbs though. Key less gas cap, Spears capture spacers front and rear, @jbluetooth doing my rear rotor, Galfer front rotor, an even smaller battery, aluminum fairing stay, and XT GPX Pro 8 dash/lap timer.
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Ive got all my weights but they are metric.


Removed the side stand and its bracket
*Make sure you fit fat washers on the lower engine mounting bolt to take its place.


Can I just unplug the stand switch or do we have to bridge the wire?
Bike runs fine, but I want to take the entire switch off,
atmo I just cable tied it to a custom fairing bracket I made to take the sidestand plates place.
Ive got all my weights but they are metric.


Removed the side stand and its bracket
*Make sure you fit fat washers on the lower engine mounting bolt to take its place.


Can I just unplug the stand switch or do we have to bridge the wire?
Bike runs fine, but I want to take the entire switch off,
atmo I just cable tied it to a custom fairing bracket I made to take the sidestand plates place.
Yes and Yes.
Normally closed circuit - bridge at plug.
OP in grams so you should have similar values.
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I had issues with the side stand switch. I pulled off the entire switch and just made a jumper. Otherwise the bike would shut off when I put it into gear. I had to do the same thing with the neutral safety switch and not wanting to start when I had the clutch in.

I am using an aftermarket clutch perch though. Hence the need for the clutch jumper.
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Um, it does that because your kick stand is down. It's a safety feature.
Um, it does that because your kick stand is down. It's a safety feature.
Umm, no. I don't have a kickstand or the switch. Hence the jumper. Bike "thinks" the kickstand is down.
Oh hmm. What do you do when you want to get off?
It is a race only bike so it goes on a rear stand. I do still have the kickstand if I need to take it to a shop.
Biggest weight-shedders are exhaust and battery (15 lb).
Smog pump/cali can -1.5
Aluminum sprocket - 1.1
That's 17.6 right there. After that, handlebars and rearsets is another 3 lbs


Refer to OP for break-down (basic math skills required)
How was it running after the the Smog pump/cali can removal? Any change?
Wow that is incredible! Although mine will stay a steet bike for now, new battery and exhaust will be the diet plan
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