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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent some more time on the dyno this weekend testing exhausts and fuel controllers for a big writeup I’m working on. In the process, I also had a chance to personally test my 415 chain and sprocket kit against the stock 520 chain and sprockets (well, actually the rear sprocket was a lighter Vortex sprocket, but the chain and front sprocket were stock). The results are impressive, and undeniable. The stock 520 chain is a thick, heavy, o-ring style chain designed to last probably 30,000 miles or more on the R3. However, this heavy chain adds a lot of unnecessary weight and resistance to the drive train and robs horsepower before it ever reaches the ground. Changing to a 415 non o-ring chain and sprockets removes about 2.5 lbs from the system, and removes tons of friction, increasing the amount of horsepower and torque that actually reaches the ground at the rear wheel.

Read the full writeup and see the results here:
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/2016/02/dyno-tested-520-chain-and-sprockets-vs-415-chain-and-sprockets-yamaha-r3-2015/




Cheers,
Jesse

Follow my build and racing at YamahaR3Racing.com
The most complete resource for information and race parts for the Yamaha R3.

 

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Another good write up Jesse, thanks again.

I know a few running the 415 (I'm sure Greg knows quite a few more) and am considering it myself. The only downside I can see is much faster chain stretch and replacement as you mention. The reduction in rotating mass is undeniable, which should result in better acceleration. If you or Greg can post any info concerning weight of rider, chain and sprocket replacement intervals, frequency of breakage or chain adjustment - that would give a better feel for what the maintenance trade-off would be. I'm at about 200 geared up and my only real concern is the possibility of throwing (ie; breaking) a chain and it hitting someone or me wadding up. (I make that chain work harder than a 95 lb rider would).

Recommended for street use? Yes/No?
 

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Rider weight should have no effect on the maximum chain stress when racing. The engine puts out the same peak power /torque regardless of rider weight. Under full throttle a heavier rider will just accelerate slower. The only time there is a difference is when under part throttle where a lightweight rider may be at 50% and a heavier one at 75% to get the same acceleration rate, so a heavier street rider will put more stress on the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rider weight should have no effect on the maximum chain stress when racing. The engine puts out the same peak power /torque regardless of rider weight. Under full throttle a heavier rider will just accelerate slower. The only time there is a difference is when under part throttle where a lightweight rider may be at 50% and a heavier one at 75% to get the same acceleration rate, so a heavier street rider will put more stress on the chain.
That was so well said, thank you :)
 

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they make non-oring 520's. Interesting findings but wouldn't that be the obvious thing to test? Or are all the gains the direct result of 2.5lbs of less rotating mass?

How much did you spend to get a best case <1.4% improvement in torque? Whereas 520 stuff is common as anything and chains around $40 and you can buy them in 25ft coils too.
 

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Excuse a noob question, and no offense intended for all you racers out there.

I know every little bit of tweaking helps, but why so much attention on something relatively small like chains, rather than lighter wheels? Seems to me it would make a lot bigger difference not only on sprung weight, but also the compounded benefit if you consider rotational inertia?

Is it more a matter of the cost and relative lack of choices for aftermarket wheels?
Or do you sacrifice handling / momentum / intended gyroscopic effect if you get lighter wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You're absolutely right, wheels have a much bigger effect both on rotational inertia and gyroscopic effect. The reason is because most of the classes that the R3 runs in require stock wheels.
 

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Us big boys are harder on equipment than you pasty waifs -
I agree. To me its like pulling a 20lb weight with 20 lb test line, then using the exact same amount of power, on the same 20 lb test line to pull an 80 lb weight. I am pretty sure the line is going to go through different stress than the lighter weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Us big boys are harder on equipment than you pasty waifs -
lol, awesome comment.

Force on the chain during acceleration will be the same like rviator said, but you big boys will apply more load on the chain when downshifting and engine braking, because in that case, the force applied is not even, bigger boys take more energy to slow down, and if you're engine braking, all that energy goes through the chain.
 

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I have used the 415 chain at 200+ lbs with no problems. Greg said change it about half way through the season. The chain is only about $70 so not a huge investment.

Wheels would be wonderful for a huge weight savings, but, besides not be race legal in super sport classes, they start at $2000!
 

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I have used the 415 chain at 200+ lbs with no problems. Greg said change it about half way through the season. The chain is only about $70 so not a huge investment.

Wheels would be wonderful for a huge weight savings, but, besides not be race legal in super sport classes, they start at $2000!
Exactly the info I was looking for - thanks Cap!
 

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Another good 415 chain (that has become harder to find) is the Tsubaki 415 SHT racing chain. It weighs a little more than the DID and doesn't look as good since its just black/natural instead of gold. But it's tensile strength is greater, it costs less and even though it uses clip style master links the outer plate still has to be pressed on with considerable force. Makes it a pain to change but provides peace of mind if the clip falls off the plate will more than likely stay put.


I've been running the Tsubaki for the past couple seasons with no issues and surprisingly little stretch with my 240# weight. I replace it once per season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Another good 415 chain (that has become harder to find) is the Tsubaki 415 SHT racing chain. It weighs a little more than the DID and doesn't look as good since its just black/natural instead of gold. But it's tensile strength is greater, it costs less and even though it uses clip style master links the outer plate still has to be pressed on with considerable force. Makes it a pain to change but provides peace of mind if the clip falls off the plate will more than likely stay put.


I've been running the Tsubaki for the past couple seasons with no issues and surprisingly little stretch with my 240# weight. I replace it once per season.
I can't find this Tsubaki chain available anywhere, got any tips? It seems like it was discontinued maybe? The links are available everywhere, just don't see the chains...
 

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Good find Fang, that's the one. Also keep in mind the R3 will require more than 120 links so I usually order 3 chains to give me plenty to make 2 longer chains
 

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Good find Fang, that's the one. Also keep in mind the R3 will require more than 120 links so I usually order 3 chains to give me plenty to make 2 longer chains
Looks like the R3 needs a 415 chain with 144 links in order to account for the different 415 sprocket sizing.

Popular sizes for racing seem to be 18T front and 54, 55, 56, 57 or 58 rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The 415 chains that I carry and that Gregg carries come with special 144 link chains that are made for the R3. If you buy a standard 120 link chain, you'll be way short or need 2.
Jesse
 
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