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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Every 500mi, I go through the process.
If you have friends (who also ride), make a day of it.

Set up
  • Set bike on rear stand
  • Remove chain guard & drive sprocket cover
  • Put bike in neutral (free wheel movement)
Scrub it
  • Rinse thoroughly with water hose
  • Spray with Maxima Clean Up and let soak for 1 minute
  • Using a chain grunge brush:
    • Scrub chain outside & inside chain
    • Scrub both sprockets & teeth
    • Scrub each tooth (take your time)
    • Scrub the sprocket sides near the teeth
    • Scrub around both sprockets (do it gently near the engine; there is wiring strewn throughout the area)
    • Scrub the swing arm protector top & bottom (the rubber sheaths that prevent the chain from rubbing the swing arm)
Rinse it
  • Wash & rinse thoroughly
    • If there's more residue, spray Clean Up again and let soak, then scrub again, wash & rinse thoroughly
  • Completely dry using terry cloth
Measure & adjust it
  • Check chain slack (must be within 35mm to 45mm). If not within spec:
    • Loosen rear axle nut
    • Apply chain tension using the axle's left adjustment rod
    • Lightly bump tire forward and left to ensure slack adjustment rod adjustment plate is fully embedded with swing arm slot
    • Check chain slack (ensure it's within 35mm to 45mm)
Align it
  • Use Motion Pro Chain Alignment Tool
  • Screw tool onto sprocket, aim the metal rod up the chain toward the drive sprocket (the small sprocket)
    • Align chain sprocket-to-sprocket using the axle's right adjustment rod
    • Lightly bump tire forward to ensure adjustment plates are fully embedded with swing arm slots
    • Recheck chain slack (ensure it's within 35mm to 45mm)
    • If you bump the motorcycle, it's possible you'll dislodge the adjustment caps; lightly bump the tire forward (toward the front wheel) to ensure the plates on the swingarm are fully seated, then continue to the last step
  • Torque axle nut to 41 ft-lbs (using a Torque Wrench)
    • I always measure chain slack after torquing rear axle; this is peace of mind to ensure I didn't **** it up from my last measurement
Get it ready
  • Put bike in neutral
  • Place a towel between the lower chain and the frame cross member to prevent over spray affecting other parts of the bike (especially the exhaust pipe)
Wax it
  • Attach the narrow spray straw to a can of Maxima Chain Wax
  • Aim to the inside of the chain to the right of swing arm pivot, behind left peg rear set, on underside of the swing arm, tilt the can downward toward the ground
  • You may also wax the outer side of the chain, to prevent rust
    • Lube the outside of the chain even less than the inside; this serves merely as a protective layer to prevent settled water causing surface rust
  • Pull or push the wheel (with the bike in neutral on a rear stand) and spray to lube chain
    • Only while the wheel is turning (and the chain is moving)
    • Lubricate the entire chain this way
    • Do not spray until the chain is dripping with lubricant
    • Do not concentrate the spray to one spot on the chain
    • Do not wipe chain after lubricating
    • Do not **** this up (Funny, right? I thought so.)
      • Too much chain wax will cause a big mess and will not keep to the places its needed (the O-rings which connect the chain links; the moving parts)
      • Not enough chain wax will not lubricate the moving parts, thereby causing friction and subsequently premature wear
Tidy up
Put your tools away, clean your hands, drink an ice cold glass of clean water, and give someone a hug.
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