[Norton-Motorsports.com]

I'm tearing the bike down this week as much as necessary to document everything with photos and directions before the bike goes to Bazzaz for fuel management and dyno testing/tuning. I'm about half way done, if there's any special questions anyone has or photos you want, let me know. Unfortunately, there's no quick and easy way to switch to GP shift with the stock equipment, but coming up with something is high on my priority list as soon as I get the bike back and after I move this weekend...

 

[Lollingthunder]

Do you know if the tri connector (3 wires) under the passenger seat tray (as soon as you remove the 2 retainer clips and remove the plastic tray) is the tail/brake light? I noticed a gray box just passed it. The r3 definitely is not like the FZ07 under the storage seat...

If it isn't, is it possible to take a pic of what the brake light connector looks like?

I have a spare brake light modulator chip from my FZ07, was wondering if it will fit in the R3 since the tail light initially appears to be identical.

Thanks.

 

[Lollingthunder]

Er crap, nevermind. I just realized I have my FZ07 stock taillight off, I might as well look at that. Turns out the connector is white and the one under the tray is black/black. So its definitely not that.

Wonder why they made it a pain to access the signal/brake/license light on the r3.

edit

Alright, I see what's going on, it goes down to the main seat. Bleh.

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

It's actually very easy to access all the wiring for the fender and tail light, I'll post specific pics tomorrow. Pull the passenger seat, unscrew the 2 screws covering the main seat bolts, and remove the main seat, then all the wiring is right there.

 

[Lollingthunder]

Yeah, I just went down and did it after I posted. When I looked at it a day ago, I was in a rush and didn't take a close look.

Having to use both allen and hex removal to gain access, although technically easy, relative to my own bike its a pain. :laugh:

I'm 95% sure my old FZ07 supabrake II brake light modulator will work on the R3. I won't be doing it for another hour though, still kind of busy atm.

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

Turn Signal Connectors:

Brake Light Connector:

 

[bradmeister]

Jbluetooth,


Dude, that is so righteous and considerate of you! Mucho Gracias mi amigo!


Anyway, would really be interested in the Dyno Numbers, before and after your mods, if Possible!


Speaking of Mods, as I see your going after engine performance, have you figured out the Spring rates of Stock, and what your looking to replace the rear shock with yet?


Im working with Sonic Springs in the states to hopefully establish a baseline for This machine.


If you have the time, I would appreciate the info! Additionally, I salute you for uncorking her, and getting her onto the track for one of the greatest Sports in the World!! Woot Woot!


Cheers!

 

[sean931]

Good stuff, Jesse. We tore down my R3 this past Saturday as well. Race prep is already well underway:

- I shipped my bodywork off to Hotbodies, so bodywork should be available before too long.
- The stock clip-ons can be very easily moved under the top triple clamp...takes all of 5 minutes and gets the bars much lower...could be even lower with aftermarket throttle.
- Aftermarket chain and sprocket kits are already available for this bike!
- My fork cartridge kit is on the way, and we're working with a shock company for the rear.
- Power Commander V installed, and exhaust is on the way. It'll be interesting to see how this bike pulls compared to it's initial dyno run (posted by SearsRacing in another thread).
- Sato rearsets on the way.

As far as rearsets go, it actually looks like the Ninja 250 rearsets from Woodcraft might fit. The mounting bolt spacing is the same. The only thing I can't confirm is whether the rear brake master will mount up. The Ninja 250 Woodcrafts would not change peg position very much from stock, though, so probably not worth it...I'd recommend waiting for R3 specific parts.

 

[Ho11ywood195]

Good stuff, Jesse. We tore down my R3 this past Saturday as well. Race prep is already well underway:

- I shipped my bodywork off to Hotbodies, so bodywork should be available before too long.
- The stock clip-ons can be very easily moved under the top triple clamp...takes all of 5 minutes and gets the bars much lower...could be even lower with aftermarket throttle.
- Aftermarket chain and sprocket kits are already available for this bike!
- My fork cartridge kit is on the way, and we're working with a shock company for the rear.
- Power Commander V installed, and exhaust is on the way. It'll be interesting to see how this bike pulls compared to it's initial dyno run (posted by SearsRacing in another thread).
- Sato rearsets on the way.

As far as rearsets go, it actually looks like the Ninja 250 rearsets from Woodcraft might fit. The mounting bolt spacing is the same. The only thing I can't confirm is whether the rear brake master will mount up. The Ninja 250 Woodcrafts would not change peg position very much from stock, though, so probably not worth it...I'd recommend waiting for R3 specific parts.

The R3 puts down around 37hp you can youtube R3 dyno test to see. Even when modified you would be lucky if you saw 45 hp to the wheels but adding a extra 8hp to these bikes is really hard better to take weight off the bike rather then trying to bulid hp.

 

[sean931]

The R3 puts down around 37hp you can youtube R3 dyno test to see. Even when modified you would be lucky if you saw 45 hp to the wheels but adding a extra 8hp to these bikes is really hard better to take weight off the bike rather then trying to bulid hp.

Yup, my bike was one of the ones in the youtube videos. 37hp and a nice flat torque curve. We will share post-mod dyno results once we have the exhaust and chain/sprockets in place. I think it will likely take some messing with timing and compression ration to get all the way to 45hp. We shall see...

 

[u3c307]

Awesome thread info guys keep it up! jblue didn't you decide to go with TST instead of Bazzaz?

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

I'll be using the Bazzaz Zfi fuel management and Annitori quickshifter.

 

[3th3r]

Jesse, this is very generous of you, and your blog is quite nice too.

If you have the chance, could you take some pics of the upper and lower shock mounts? If we decide to purchase one of these R3s (for the GF), we will need to analyze lowering options, and if it looks like the ROI will be negatively impacted, we may decide to skip this bike altogether.

BTW does anyone have detailed specs for the shock and shock spring?

Thanks!

 

[Mike-the-Bike]

What was your process for moving the clip-ons under the triple clamp? Did you have to remove the top clamp? Do the hand grips hit the tank or fairing at full lock?

 

[sean931]

What was your process for moving the clip-ons under the triple clamp? Did you have to remove the top clamp? Do the hand grips hit the tank or fairing at full lock?

I did remove the top triple clamp. To do so, loosen the bolts that clamp the clip-ons and top triple to the forks (2 each side) and remove the two screws that secure the clip-ons to the top surface of the top triple (covered with plastic caps). Then remove the steering stem bolt (22mm bolt in the center). Pull the clip-ons off the fork legs, then remove the top triple. There is enough slack in all the cables and wiring to hold the top triple out of the way while slipping the clip-ons back onto the forks. Then replace the top triple, and the steering stem bolt. Place the clip-ons in the desired position being sure to check clearance at full lock (yup, there is plenty of clearance to fairing and tank if placed correctly). Then tighten the 4 clamping bolts.

 

[sean931]

Jesse, this is very generous of you, and your blog is quite nice too.

If you have the chance, could you take some pics of the upper and lower shock mounts? If we decide to purchase one of these R3s (for the GF), we will need to analyze lowering options, and if it looks like the ROI will be negatively impacted, we may decide to skip this bike altogether.

BTW does anyone have detailed specs for the shock and shock spring?

Thanks!

How tall is your GF? My wife is 5' 2" and has no problem comfortably touching both feet.

I don't think it will be possible to lower the rear of this bike without replacing the shock with a shorter unit. It's a linkless set-up, where the shock mounts directly between the frame and swing arm. Adjustable height shocks will become available (there may even be some off-the-shelf units that will fit), but even those will probably be geared towards adding ride height for racing and will have limited range for reducing height.

The stock shock is 11" long from eye to eye. Spring is 80mm in diameter. Top clevis is 35mm wide with a 12mm through hole. Bottom clevis is 60mm wide with 12mm through hole.

 

[3th3r]

How tall is your GF? My wife is 5' 2" and has no problem comfortably touching both feet.

I don't think it will be possible to lower the rear of this bike without replacing the shock with a shorter unit. It's a linkless set-up, where the shock mounts directly between the frame and swing arm. Adjustable height shocks will become available (there may even be some off-the-shelf units that will fit), but even those will probably be geared towards adding ride height for racing and will have limited range for reducing height.

The stock shock is 11" long from eye to eye. Spring is 80mm in diameter. Top clevis is 35mm wide with a 12mm through hole. Bottom clevis is 60mm wide with 12mm through hole.

Whoa, excellent info! Thank so much for this, as it will really help us. The linkless setup seems to go a bit far into Yamaha's cost cutting. I suppose it's OK for street riding, but those looking to race/track the bike may miss the variable rate linkage.

The GF is 5'0" and 110lbs (more like 4' 11 1/2" ), so she's small and refuses to ride anything but a full faired sportbike, so her choices are rather limited.

 

[sean931]

Whoa, excellent info! Thank so much for this, as it will really help us. The linkless setup seems to go a bit far into Yamaha's cost cutting. I suppose it's OK for street riding, but those looking to race/track the bike may miss the variable rate linkage.

The GF is 5'0" and 110lbs (more like 4' 11 1/2" ), so she's small and refuses to ride anything but a full faired sportbike, so her choices are rather limited.

Ok...5'0"-ish may have a hard time touching. The seat is quite narrow at the front which helps, and it should be possible to shave the seat down a bit. Has she sat on one to see how far off she is from touching?

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

Here's some photos of the upper and lower shock mounts.

 

[3th3r]

Thanks, seeing these pics of the shock mount helps. This bike may not work for us after all, unfortunately, as the cost and effort to lower it may be quite high. :crying:
I'll have to do a bit more research.