Yamaha R3 Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is a little time consuming as simple as it is. But it's free and does not require fancy tools. I would say a solid 1-2 hours.

1.jpg

I AM NOT HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT YOU EXPERIENCE. PLEASE, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!



Now let's begin. The tools that we'll need are listed below.

-Power Drill
- 1/4 Bit
- 9/64 Allen Wrench
-Knife
-Screw Driver
-Socket wrench
-Extension
- 8mm, 10mm socket
-Your Key
2.jpg

First. Put you key in under the passenger seat and pull out the passenger seat out.
3.jpg
4.jpg

Next, use your allen wrench to remove the two screws holding the seat lip. Make sure to pull the tabs when removing AND inserting.
5.jpg
6.jpg

Use the 8mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the seat.
7.jpg

To remove the cover trey there are two grommets that are holding it in place. Just half twist and pull out. (That's what she said.)
8.jpg

The next thing we are going to focus on is removing the clips from the turn signals. Go ahead and pull out the fuse from it's rubber clip so we have more room to play with.
9.jpg

Find this clear wrapping and unfold it from it's slits. Congrats, you found the clips!
10.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
11.jpg

Now we have to dig for the license plate led clip from the pits of ****
12.jpg
13.jpg
14.jpg

With the 10mm socket and extension, unbolt four bolts to remove the plastic tail.
15.jpg

Four more grommets to remove.
16.jpg

Theres eight screws that the allen wrench is used to remove. Notice I removed the other side already
17.jpg

Two screws that need to come out with your screwdriver right above the signals
18.jpg

Now that the pieces are split in half, remove the two silver brackets and save them for later. we will need them.
19.jpg
20.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
To remove the signals. theres a plastic slip that easily pops out. From there you just pull the lamps out.
22.jpg

I believe these are 10mm bolts that hold the license plate frame. We will also need this.
23.jpg

With your power drill and 1/4 drill bit, go ahead and make the existing holes a little bit bigger.
24.jpg

Now grab the signals and use the 8mm and socket to undo the bolt holding down the housing. You will also notice a metal plate that we will want. but in order to remove it we need to make a tiny slit in the rubber housing.
25.jpg
26.jpg

Use the 8mm to remove the reflectors.
28.jpg

We are going to use the oval slit to insert the wiring harness and use the bolt down the signals.
29.jpg
30.jpg

Attach the two silver brackets on to the license plate frame to where they are almost standing up straight. make them tight but most likely we will have to make small adjustments when we mount it.
31.jpg

PAY ATTENTION. Now obviously there are four holes meant for the bracket. We are only going to use the top two. Bolt them tight. MORE ATTENTION. You're going to have to bend the frame to make room for the signals. Make sure they are facing the rear and are not facing too far down or up.
33.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Now before putting everything back together ensure the signals work AND PLEASE MAKE SURE THE LEFT AND RIGHT BLINKERS ARE IN THE RIGHT POSITION.
34.jpg

But there's my DIY. It was a little sloppy but it's free free free!
I hope you all enjoy and I would love to hear feedback.:nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
very VERY help full.. thanks so much man this looks awesome. definitely going to be doing this tomorrow morning
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Nice thorough write-up, Matt. Really good detailed pix. What did you do about the 2 open rectangle holes in the undertail? I pulled my rear fender the second day I had my bike, but couldn't come up with a good way to keep water and road debris from getting in (duct tape: not an option), so I put the silly thing back on. I wonder if we could get a specific DIY section on the forum to start logging everyone's tricks in an easy-to- find location...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Great write up. My concern is, isn't it a little too close for the back wheel?
I did something similar on my CBR250 2 years ago and the soft suspension caused the back wheel to scrape against the license plate. I fixed it by angling it more to have more clearance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Great write up. My concern is, isn't it a little too close for the back wheel?
I did something similar on my CBR250 2 years ago and the soft suspension caused the back wheel to scrape against the license plate. I fixed it by angling it more to have more clearance
Hmm you might be right, I haven't had a problem yet but I supposed I could angle it like you said for more clearance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Nice thorough write-up, Matt. Really good detailed pix. What did you do about the 2 open rectangle holes in the undertail? I pulled my rear fender the second day I had my bike, but couldn't come up with a good way to keep water and road debris from getting in (duct tape: not an option), so I put the silly thing back on. I wonder if we could get a specific DIY section on the forum to start logging everyone's tricks in an easy-to- find location...
It's pretty dry here so I haven't had a problem with water. But I see what you mean. I'm working on a second diy that will totally change out the signals and requires cutting for a bracket, I'll make sure the holes get covered up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
so far the license plate has not shown signs of rub but is starting picking up some sludge.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top