From Salvage to SuperSport: An R3 Build

8447 Views 46 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Collin Kelly, 2 mo ago

Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · Apr 23, 2020 (Edited)

7

Hey gang. Long time lurker, first time poster. I came across a wrecked, but VERY low mileage 2015 R3 that was stinking up someone’s backyard in Queens, September last year. Given that it had no title and was essentially left for dead, I decided to make an offer and start building a track bike. Low and behold, offer was accepted!

Then this COVID thing happened. Having nothing but time on my hands, I thought I would share where I was at now, and try to share regularly as the build comes together moving forward. Attaching some pictures… but hopefully adding more as the days go on.

I’m coming from having raced for 3 years in the vintage scene, specifically coming off of a ground up rebuild of a stock 1969 CB350 production bike. I applied for (and was accepted to) a transfer license from AHRMA to CCS / ASRA this year, my home track being NJMP. So please forgive me if I might be a luddite at certain points in this thread. Modern bikes are pretty new to me…

In any case, since I picked this thing up for under a grand, I’ve started to invest a grip of coins into some of the bits that I’ll need to make this thing competitive in SuperStock/SuperSport. MOST of the research I have done has either come directly from vendors, or from various articles and threads on this forum. So, to the entire community, I’d like to broadcast a heartfelt THANK YOU!

A list of bits that have been purchased (and in some cases installed already) for this build include:

Antigravity ATZ7 Lithium Ion Battery
aRacer Mini5 ECU
aRacer 2-way QuickShifter
Dunlop Q3+ front and rear, stock size
EBC Double-H Rear Pads
Engine Ice Track-safe Coolant
EK 415 Chain (144 link)
GG Retrofitz Rocket Race Bodykit
Hotbodies Adjustable Levers
HSBK 415 Front sprocket
K&N Oil Filter
Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle & stop/start switch
MWR Air Filter
NGK Iridium IX Plugs
Norton block-off plate kit
Rebel Gears 415 rear sprocket
Samco Radiator Hoses
Spark Konix Full Exhaust System
Spears Captive Spacers (front and rear)
Speigler brake Lines
TST Captive Axle adjusters and GP Lifter Kit
Woodcraft axle sliders, bar ends, clip-ons, lever guards, stands, etc.
Vesrah Double-Z Front Pads
Vortex V2 Rear sets

I probably forgot some stuff, and would like to be able to claim ignorance on how much $$ has gone into the pit already! Thanks again for reading and hoping I can share more each time I visit the garage, which is roughly twice a week (I live in Brooklyn and share a garage with 4 other suckers at @mgm.racing)

Here come the pics… haven’t gotten organized enough yet on progress pics but this is the turd I started with:

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #2 · Apr 23, 2020

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First thing to do was get the forks fixed / replaced. For this… I consulted the trusty site OEM Yamaha Parts - ATV, Motorcycle, Snowmobile | YamahaPartsNation.com. The entire front fork assembly with lower triple was on offer for $175 plus shipping. Loving this modern bike thing already!

Got to tearing down the busted forks and straightened out the gauge bracket stay with some creative pushing/pulling/hammering:

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GoFaster

· #3 · Apr 24, 2020

Fun project to keep yourself busy. Couple dumb comments on your parts list:

Check the rulebook on that "Engine Ice Track-safe Coolant". It's propylene glycol. Don't know about your local sanctioning body, but none in Canada allow any sort of glycol. It is still very slippery (and hard to clean up) if it escapes from where it's supposed to be. Even if the rulebook allowed it ... I wouldn't use it. Water and anti-corrosion additive of your choice only (WaterWetter is a common one, Motul MoCool is another one).

And ... check the rulebook about that K&N oil filter, too. There was a problem with some of those a couple years ago - leaking where the hex is attached to the body of the filter. Some organisations now say OEM oil filters only, others have a specific prohibited list, those being among them. Check rulebook!

What are you doing about suspension? If you're a lightweight (I'm not, unfortunately) perhaps you can get by with the stock stuff. I couldn't. I bought Ohlins front and rear. $$$.

Very fun track bike once you are done though.

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 24, 2020 (Edited)

GoFaster:

Heard. After double-checking, the Engine Ice does still have Propylene Glycol, and even though it is technically legal in CCS/ASRA (the rules state "ethylene glycol" as being banned, also its ADVERTISED in the PDF rulebook… eek!), I’d feel better having a glycol-free solution in there, as I don’t want to be the guy who caused a wipeout

Thank you for bringing that to my attention! Looks like I have yet another flush in front of me. As for the filter, I was planning on safety wiring it as spec’d in the rulebook along with a metal clamp. Will keep a close eye out for the feedback/leaks you speak of.

Suspension: I am sending off the forks to Jon and CTR Suspensions for a proper K-Tech cartridge setup, having been impressed with another garage mate’s FZ-07.

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 24, 2020 (Edited)

7

Second thing I decided to pay attention to was front/rear stands and controls. Because the front wheel was damaged, I decided to get both the wheels off to inspect, and mount new rubber.

Not very many good photos of process here for handlebar controls and rear sets, but Brian Van’s videos over at STG helped to get the Motion Pro throttle and on/off switch installed with a quickness, along with the Vortex v2s!

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 24, 2020

4

On to the wheel and tire transformation. I decided on Dunlop Q3+s, and since the front wheel had some rash and was bent, once I found a reliable guy to repair it, I went ahead and had Arcane Moto powder coat the wheels Prismatic Powders Satin Poly Gold. They also handled coating the new quick open gas cap the same gold to match!

Took those fresh wheels over to Ross at the Lurkshop to get the tires mounted, couldn’t have been happier with how they turned out. I need to balance them, but otherwise, they are ready to mount.

Right now I’m a little jammed in the process. Beyond the wheel balancing, I have decided to send the forks off for K-Tech cartridges, which means the front wheel and brake work can‘t be finalized yet. Also didn’t have a 415 compatible chain breaker, so that is in transit from RLV. When it arrives I should be able to complete my cobbled together 415 conversion and complete the rear drivetrain/brake work.

While the forks are away, I will likely start test fitting the body kit. Iff there’s anyone here that can offer pointers with regard to that, either in general or with specificity to the GG Retrofitz Rocket Race kit, all advice is appreciated!

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oldbonez

· #7 · Apr 24, 2020

Collin Kelly said:
If there’s anyone here that can offer pointers with regard to that, either in general or with specificity to the GG Retrofitz Rocket Race kit, all advice is appreciated!

Man, that kit ain't cheap. Shouldn't be a lot more to it than their street kit.

ggretrofitz.com

How to

GG Retrofitz

ggretrofitz.com

ggretrofitz.com

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josh.monty

· #8 · Apr 25, 2020

I am doing something similar. I picked up a 2016 R3 at auction that had been lowsided and I am turning it into a track bike. But in my case I do not have the funds like you do and it's a straight budget race build lol. But that's ok cuz this will be my first race season that I partake in, so I don't need all the fancy stuff yet. Look forward to watching this build and learn some more for mine as well. Ride safe!

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GoFaster

· #9 · Apr 25, 2020

With mine, I opted to use a 520 non-O-ring dirt bike chain. The 415 scared me. On my FZR400, which came stock with a 428 chain, I had it break while coming out of the corner coming onto the front straight at Shannonville. A week earlier, I had been at another track where I had been repeatedly getting the back wheel up in the air at a certain spot and setting it down again ...

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 27, 2020

5

So the Spark exhaust arrived. I ended up installing all but the canister this afternoon (it would just be in the way while I complete the rear wheel/brake/chain work). Went together relatively easily once I had everything laid out. Used some copper paste on the joints as recommended by another builder / fabricator.

Was very impressed with the build quality, and I can’t believe that it only weighs 6 lbs?! The stock setup weighed in at 27 lbs…

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #11 · Apr 27, 2020

@josh.monty:

I am going a little overboard with certain elements of this build, in part because I am stir crazy not being able to get out to the track / races ha.

Sharing mainly to document the build, which I almost never do (this is probably the 6th bike I’ve built?). I am mainly looking for feedback from the experienced R3 fellas on here to make sure I don’t miss anything major in building a competitive 300 series stock-ish sportbike!

What org are you racing with? Good luck with your build and season!

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hey_tchap

· #12 · May 2, 2020

interested. monitoring.

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 4, 2020

3

Updates have been spotty due to a pinched nerve in my neck.

RLV chainbreaker and master links came tho, so the chain is finally the right length!
Is there a common practice either way for keeping or removing the acetate / rubberized swingarm chain guard?
Also, in the habit of safety wiring my master links on 520 chains on other bikes, but looks mighty challenging on a chain as small as the 415. Any tips there or am I being overly cautious?

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cornerslider

· #14 · May 4, 2020

I really like your build!!! I don't know you, but I would caution you on the 415 chain. I good friend of mine raced an R3 with a 415 chain. He wanted to be "competitive", but after breaking several chains, he determined maybe he was too heavy for it. I'd estimate him to be 170#-180#..... I wouldn't consider him a "heavyweight" by any stretch of my imagination. If you don't "break" it, you will likely have to replace the chain several times during the race season. Maybe you already know this? If so, no worries.... Just trying to help out another track rider-

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josh.monty

· #15 · May 5, 2020

Collin Kelly said:
Updates have been spotty due to a pinched nerve in my neck. RLV chainbreaker and master links came tho, so the chain is finally the right length!
Is there a common practice either way for keeping or removing the acetate / rubberized swingarm chain guard?
Also, in the habit of safety wiring my master links on 520 chains on other bikes, but looks mighty challenging on a chain as small as the 415. Any tips there or am I being overly cautious?

I totally didn't even think of that! I need to check to see if my Motion Pro Chainbreaker will work for a 415 chain as well 🤦‍♂️😅Have you gotten a Speedo Healer for the different chain/sprocket set up? Is that even needed?

josh.monty

· #16 · May 5, 2020

cornerslider said:
I really like your build!!! I don't know you, but I would caution you on the 415 chain. I good friend of mine raced an R3 with a 415 chain. He wanted to be "competitive", but after breaking several chains, he determined maybe he was too heavy for it. I'd estimate him to be 170#-180#..... I wouldn't consider him a "heavyweight" by any stretch of my imagination. If you don't "break" it, you will likely have to replace the chain several times during the race season. Maybe you already know this? If so, no worries.... Just trying to help out another track rider-

****, that's my weight range in full gear 😬I know they have an overall suggested weight range, but there's no way that even a 200lb rider on an R3 would be close to that weight. I know they have a very short life span though. Recommended to be replaced every 800ish miles. I know I will be paying extra close attention to the chain though!

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 5, 2020

@cornerslider Greatly appreciate the input. I will have at least one track weekend lined up for testing before any REAL racing is going to happen. I should be able to use those two days to monitor the chain / sprockets over the course of the day and get a good hit on its performance and wear.

I do find it strange that this is what all the shops are pushing as "THE" mod for reduced weight, but just as many cautionary tales… 😬 Also this bike, having a cush drive but no slipper: I’m wondering if that makes R3s a bit harder on chains than the ninjas (in the same class) with the slipper? Just a thought.

Will now be paying EXTRA close attention to said chain. Coming from vintage racing, dependable is almost always FAR more desirable than even a handful of pounds of weight savings. But for now, I bought what I bought, and let‘s see how it performs.

Now if you‘ll excuse me, I have a backup chain to order

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #18 · May 5, 2020

@josh.monty no speedo healer for me, as I haven’t really ever found myself checking speed on the track.

I am about to run an aRacer Mini5 (arrived last week!) which, might (?) have some correctional capacity for the speedo. Definitely not a top concern though…

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 17, 2020

3

Update: Slow going since I pinched a nerve in my neck a couple weeks back, however starting to come out of it with the right PT. Spend a a couple hours trying to get the rear buttoned up. Got the rear sprocket bolted on and torqued properly, chain aligned, lubed and adjusted, and got the new rear pads and Spiegler SS line installed.

… and I just realized I forgot to balance the rear wheel

Beyond that, i have a rear reservoir delete to install then just gotta fill/bleed that rear to be ready to install the muffler!

Hope everyone’s hanging in there and staying safe.

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Collin Kelly

Discussion Starter · #20 · May 23, 2020

4

Rear wheel balanced and reinstalled. Realigned the chain, and installed the rear axle sliders tonight, along with the KTech Razor RR rear shock!

Getting after front end reassembly tomorrow, now that the forks are back with cartridges from CTR Suspensions. Full speed ahead!

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