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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So one of the things I've noticed while riding is that the front suspension feels a little soft. What is the best thing I can do to stiffen the front suspension?


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Hi,

I put some pre loaders on mine helps a lot, also put a riser kit on the rear as the bike was to low down for my, she does handle well though!
 

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I wanted something easy to install, drop in and use so i decided to go with Intiminators and preload adjusters from Spearsracing.
 

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If your spring rates are correct, you can adjust your preload either with adjustable preload fork caps or cut the internal spacer to the correct size. This should also be in conjunction with getting your sag to the correct setting.

You can also change the oil to a heavier one, add more, or a combo of both.

Intimidators are ok but require a lot of work once you start getting into the realm of tweaking your rebound settings as you need to take the caps off, fish out the intimidator, tweak it, put it back in, check oil level, reinstall the cap, then go for a ride. I have never owned gold valve emulators but the process is pretty similar.

Cartridge kits are well worth the money imo. There are several kits out there. I went ohlins due to no alterations required to the forks themselves.
 

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I don´t do track days, just multi surface roads, like dual sport riders. I installed a pair of the Ricor Intiminators that I had purchased direct from Ricor just this week. Since they do not have a specific product for the MT-03 (R3) I measured the inside diameter of my fork tubes to make sure we had a good fit. They included two additional pairs of over sized sealing rings since the diameter of my fork tubes was slightly more than their 41mm Kayaba design. I went with Ricor´s advice to keep the OEM .66 kgf/mm springs in but I changed those out today to the Racetech .80 and I prefer that setup for my weight. Dive is significantly reduced at all speeds with both the OEM springs and the Racetech. On cobblestones, the ride feels somewhat harsh same as OEM, but not a problem. At speed, the bike is well planted and tracks true. Of course once you "fix" the front suspension, you will notice how crappy the rear suspension is. I think it is best to do both the front and rear, or you will not get the full benefit of the modified front suspension. I installed a Hyperpro progressive 460 shock today and it is a good match with the new fork setup. If you are a track rider and have the coin, then cartridges would be a better option, because of ease of tune. Most of it depends on how you are going to use your bike.

Whatever you choose, remember that suspensions work best in a narrow range. If a suspension shop promises you that they will transform your bike across all road surfaces at all speeds, then hold on to your wallet. There are always some compromises with tuning a suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don´t do track days, just multi surface roads, like dual sport riders. I installed a pair of the Ricor Intiminators that I had purchased direct from Ricor just this week. Since they do not have a specific product for the MT-03 (R3) I measured the inside diameter of my fork tubes to make sure we had a good fit. They included two additional pairs of over sized sealing rings since the diameter of my fork tubes was slightly more than their 41mm Kayaba design. I went with Ricor´s advice to keep the OEM .66 kgf/mm springs in but I changed those out today to the Racetech .80 and I prefer that setup for my weight. Dive is significantly reduced at all speeds with both the OEM springs and the Racetech. On cobblestones, the ride feels somewhat harsh same as OEM, but not a problem. At speed, the bike is well planted and tracks true. Of course once you "fix" the front suspension, you will notice how crappy the rear suspension is. I think it is best to do both the front and rear, or you will not get the full benefit of the modified front suspension. I installed a Hyperpro progressive 460 shock today and it is a good match with the new fork setup. If you are a track rider and have the coin, then cartridges would be a better option, because of ease of tune. Most of it depends on how you are going to use your bike.

Whatever you choose, remember that suspensions work best in a narrow range. If a suspension shop promises you that they will transform your bike across all road surfaces at all speeds, then hold on to your wallet. There are always some compromises with tuning a suspension.


+100 on this. Great info.
I do mostly street riding, but I am going to a track day in September to see how I like the track. My main concern is that the front seems to dive really quick on initial front braking, especially if it's anything more than feathering in the brake.



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I don´t do track days, just multi surface roads, like dual sport riders. I installed a pair of the Ricor Intiminators that I had purchased direct from Ricor just this week. Since they do not have a specific product for the MT-03 (R3) I measured the inside diameter of my fork tubes to make sure we had a good fit. They included two additional pairs of over sized sealing rings since the diameter of my fork tubes was slightly more than their 41mm Kayaba design. I went with Ricor´s advice to keep the OEM .66 kgf/mm springs in but I changed those out today to the Racetech .80 and I prefer that setup for my weight. Dive is significantly reduced at all speeds with both the OEM springs and the Racetech. On cobblestones, the ride feels somewhat harsh same as OEM, but not a problem. At speed, the bike is well planted and tracks true. Of course once you "fix" the front suspension, you will notice how crappy the rear suspension is. I think it is best to do both the front and rear, or you will not get the full benefit of the modified front suspension. I installed a Hyperpro progressive 460 shock today and it is a good match with the new fork setup. If you are a track rider and have the coin, then cartridges would be a better option, because of ease of tune. Most of it depends on how you are going to use your bike.

Whatever you choose, remember that suspensions work best in a narrow range. If a suspension shop promises you that they will transform your bike across all road surfaces at all speeds, then hold on to your wallet. There are always some compromises with tuning a suspension.


+100 on this. Great info.
I do mostly street riding, but I am going to a track day in September to see how I like the track. My main concern is that the front seems to dive really quick on initial front braking, especially if it's anything more than feathering in the brake.



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For track use, oem suspension is still ok for beginner group. Heck, there's some guys running fast laps in races too. I went full cartridge kit and ohlins rear shock for my race bike. That allows most tuning range, and can adapt for multiple track layouts.... fast long corners versus short stop and accelerate hard layout
 

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+100 on this. Great info.
I do mostly street riding, but I am going to a track day in September to see how I like the track. My main concern is that the front seems to dive really quick on initial front braking, especially if it's anything more than feathering in the brake.



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You're gonna love it. Why so late though? I ran my first track day on the R3 with stock suspension. At that point I was no where near the limits of the bike and still will be no where near. For the front end however it will feel like it dives a lot braking into the corners. I weigh ~155 in full track gear. A simple respring and/or different oil weight/volume could fix that. But on that particular day I was more worried about riding and learning proper technique rather than how much front end dive was happening. That stuff could be corrected later on.
 

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My main concern is that the front seems to dive really quick on initial front braking, especially if it's anything more than feathering in the brake.
Try to learn to apply the first 5% of the brakes very so gently. If you can, in your garage or some place, with the bike off, just roll it back and forth. Start squeezing the brake lever ever so gently until you feel the brake drag...thats your first 5%. If you learn to do the same slow squeeze for the first 5% at the track or streets, the bike will behave a lot different than now, much less front dive real quick. It'll be a lot more manageable.
 

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Try to learn to apply the first 5% of the brakes very so gently. If you can, in your garage or some place, with the bike off, just roll it back and forth. Start squeezing the brake lever ever so gently until you feel the brake drag...thats your first 5%. If you learn to do the same slow squeeze for the first 5% at the track or streets, the bike will behave a lot different than now, much less front dive real quick. It'll be a lot more manageable.
I read an article somewhere where they practice something similar by listening to the click the brake switch makes. Sit on your bike and squeeze just enough to hear that click. Do it over and over.
 

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I read an article somewhere where they practice something similar by listening to the click the brake switch makes. Sit on your bike and squeeze just enough to hear that click. Do it over and over.
Do it until it becomes muscle memory.....half a year and I'm still practicing in my garage ;), helps a whole lot during the race if its muscle memory, one less thing in your head. Lets me focus on the competition instead
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You're gonna love it. Why so late though? I ran my first track day on the R3 with stock suspension. At that point I was no where near the limits of the bike and still will be no where near. For the front end however it will feel like it dives a lot braking into the corners. I weigh ~155 in full track gear. A simple respring and/or different oil weight/volume could fix that. But on that particular day I was more worried about riding and learning proper technique rather than how much front end dive was happening. That stuff could be corrected later on.


I have a lot of summer plans this year with my family (all out of state) so I planned for September. Not sure how much I'll like it, but if I do, I may try to do more next year.


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I have a lot of summer plans this year with my family (all out of state) so I planned for September. Not sure how much I'll like it, but if I do, I may try to do more next year.


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I don't think its a questions of "If I do"....its more a questions of "what will you sell next year to get more track time", haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Try to learn to apply the first 5% of the brakes very so gently. If you can, in your garage or some place, with the bike off, just roll it back and forth. Start squeezing the brake lever ever so gently until you feel the brake drag...thats your first 5%. If you learn to do the same slow squeeze for the first 5% at the track or streets, the bike will behave a lot different than now, much less front dive real quick. It'll be a lot more manageable.


Part of it may be that I haven't got the brakes really worn in yet, I'm hoping that it chills out a little, but they grab like a pissed off alligator.


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Before you spend a nickle, you should post your weight and let us know if you have set (or tried) the sag (front rear). Are you bottoming out? Do you know if you are?

These things matter so others can guide you more accurately. If you weigh 190, you would not want to take the advise of a 145lb rider... no matter how logical it seems.
 
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