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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I'd make a thread documenting my experience of installing an full ebay exhaust system along with a tune from Norton Motorsports. There really isn't too much out there in regards to feedback on ebay exhausts, and most of the people installing them on Youtube don't tune their bikes after the fact.

My reasoning behind getting a cheap full exhaust over splashing out and getting a 'proper' branded one comes down to price (obviously), and the availability/cost of getting a decently priced one into NZ. And at the end of the day, if it doesn't end up doing the job it's supposed to, I'll just bite the bullet and purchase a branded exhaust.

The items I've purchased are:
  • Chinesium full exhaust - (roughly $150 USD delivered)
  • Nortonfab smog block off plate
  • K&N High Flow Air Filter
  • aRacer SpeedTek Mini5 ECU (with USB cable)
  • Replacement Yamaha exhaust gaskets
I'm not going to go into any real detail of the installation process, but what I will cover is:
  • My opinions on the quality of the exhaust
  • The ease of installation and overall fitment
  • Sound and performance after the exhaust install but before the tune
  • Sound and performance after the tune
  • My experience with Norton Motorsports
  • A follow up after a decent amount of time riding with the setup
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The exhaust arrived roughly three weeks after I purchased it. Norton Motorsports have sent the rest of the parts I need which should hopefully arrive by the end of next week, depending on NZ customs. I plan on installing everything next weekend, or the following weekend. After that I need to set up a time with Jesse from Norton Motorsports to set the ECU up as there can be issues with R3's that have the Euro ECUs.

I'm actually shocked at how well made the exhaust is. The muffler isn't real carbon fiber, I never expected it to be. I'm fairly confident they've copied the piping of a Yoshimura or Akrapovic exhaust to a pretty high standard. The piping diameter is the same and the steel thickness is the same. I can tig and mig weld to a decent standard and I'm pretty impressed with its welding. The only thing I can't judge is the quality of the steel itself.. we all know the steel quality that comes out of China is generally crap so only time will tell.

Link to all pictures:

20201024_165626.jpg
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20201024_165926.jpg
 

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Aloha, Yes I agree on the quality of the welds/build AND ease of fitment. I know the argument of the Chinese exhaust not having the R+D of the quality brand, and I agree, they don't bother with R+D, they just copied a quality brand!
I also bought the loop exhaust and quality of welds was good as well. Both exhausts seem to have the same power as the stock exhaust (MAYBE a touch more) with using no baffle.
The thing to consider is the how the stock exhaust makes such good power while in Cat-mode (back-flow restriction) along with smaller diameter header pipe (More back-flow restriction) and certainly a much smaller pipe going into the stock muffler.
So I experiment with baffles, knowing making back-flow may not be a big problem. I had one homemade baffle and the power was a bit more (or maybe not) and a little quieter.
But I did notice a significant power gain by using 2 Ebay baffles. (one coming off the header into the muffler and an 8" one (Harley type) inserted into the muffler. My goal was to break up the exhaust and deflect into the sound deadening part of the muffler. --- not use the kind of baffle that stops the exhaust and makes the exhaust outlet go through holes to exit the muffler.

USING:
1) Power Commander
2) Auto tune
3) Block off plate
4) K+N air filter
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good to hear you've had a decent experience so far with your exhausts. Do you have a picture of the loop exhaust?

If you're not getting decent power increases with the full exhaust then that comes down to the tune you're running. Compared to other OEM exhausts such as the R1, and R6's - the R3's exhaust is very restrictive.

Are the baffles on your exhausts the same or similar to the one below? This one has a two stage baffle. I would assume the best performance I will get will be with the large baffle in, but the secondary baffle removed. You can see the secondary baffle insert clearly in the third image.

20201024_170646.jpg
20201024_170636.jpg
20201024_170655.jpg
 

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Aloha, I don't like the baffle in the third pix as it just causes back pressure IMHO and does little to quiet the exhaust. Here are the baffles I use, they disrupt/divert toward the muffler glass deadening rather than purposefully causing back pressure. The short honeycomb baffle mixes the exhaust pulse (at the end of the header-going into the muffler) and the Harley-type diverter baffle directs the exhaust to the gas deadening material of the muffler. Causing minimal back pressure
 

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@Dreadwil did you purchase the aRacer AF1 with your RCMini5?

Give us the latest on the greatest invention since the FT ECU, Bazzaz Z-Fi and Z-AFM (and their pricey Map Select Switch). Because apparently, you can switch maps on-the-fly using just the smartphone app and the included bLink module.

Though I am interested in your dealings with the AF1, if there are any.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't purchase the AF1 for a few reasons:
  • Cost
  • I don't race
  • Jesse (Norton Motorsports) tuned my bike remotely
  • I tend to ride around the same altitude (sea level)
  • Where I live, the temperature (weather) doesn't go from one extreme to another

For those reasons, I don't really need something constantly adjusting air/fuel ratios as I ride. I can also tune the ECU myself using my phone if I need to do any tweaks. If you're out on a ride and want to adjust your idle RPMs? Just pull out your phone and press a button. Want to make your bike backfire for some laughs? Pull out your phone and press a button.

Regarding the tune - Jesse connected to my laptop remotely using Team Viewer, which was connected to my bike using the aRacer USB cable and he did the tune that way. Obviously this isn't going to be as perfect as a dyno/hands on tune. However, I'm happy with how it's running and I've had no issues thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's going great so far, I'm really glad I didn't buy a proper branded one as I've saved hundreds of dollars. Do I feel guilty about that? Slightly.

The only thing I've noticed after a few thousand kms is that there was a slight exhaust leak where the muffler mounted to the midpipe. I rectified this with some proper exhaust assembly/sealant.


Pros:
  • Loud and "throaty", but can be silenced quite well with the insert/s
  • Cheap
  • Looks awesome

Cons:

  • The O2 sensor hole didn't come threaded so I had to thread it myself. If you've ever tried to tap/thread stainless steel, it's a pig. Others with the same exhaust have said theirs came threaded, so I believe I was unlucky
  • The exhaust springs were all the same size so when it came to putting them on the muffler end they were way too long. I had to purchase some really short ones
  • It doesn't have a mount at the middle of the exhaust like the branded ones do. I ended up getting a bracket welded on as I wasn't happy with it only being mounted to the rear hanger and the header/engine
68524
 

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I've always felt that by going with a full exhaust, it means I have to deal with an obnoxiously loud exhaust pipe (not that pleasant over the long-term). It's nice to know you've had some success with baffles to quiet it down without restricting the flow.

Would purchasing a down-firing exhaust outlet lessen the noise-to-ear ratio?
Something that would push the exhaust flow toward the ground instead of upward toward the sky.

It's also exciting to know you've done this and are happy with it (aside from the cons you've listed) at such a great price and without piggyback systems. Seems like I could get by, spending a mere 1,000USD.
 

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Aloha, I have 4 exhaust systems, counting the stock header/Cat and about 10 different muffle/baffle combinations. I have made a tune map for each setup. Someday I will test which one is better by timing 7000 to 12,000 rpm pulls in 3rd gear to compare the actual power and myths. That is "Someday" Here are my 3 aftermarket headers and 2 best of my 8 different baffles. Francis
68525
baffle2.jpg HeaderChinese.jpg baffle1.jpg headerchineseLoop.jpg
 

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Aloha, I have 4 exhaust systems, counting the stock header/Cat and about 10 different muffle/baffle combinations. I have made a tune map for each setup. Someday I will test which one is better by timing 7000 to 12,000 rpm pulls in 3rd gear to compare the actual power and myths. That is "Someday" Here are my 3 aftermarket headers and 2 best of my 8 different baffles. Francis View attachment 68525 View attachment 68528 View attachment 68526 View attachment 68527 View attachment 68529
[sits in chair, elbow on desk, stroking chin with intrigue...sips coffee]
Suddenly I don't know what I'm asking for.

That honeycomb baffle is interesting, certainly.
Would you, by any chance, share product links with us?

I just realized how sorely misplaced this topic is (in R3 Garage & Build Area; the place for workshop threads), but hey - no one really cares about topic selection these days, right? Honestly - it doesn't seem to matter where threads are created. I could post a thread regarding toilet paper in Electrical and it wouldn't matter. I'm pretty sure this is the epitome of a dead forum.
 

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basically the baffles on Ali are described for Yamaha r3, you just need to cross-check the R3 Diameter (51mm?) against the size of the baffle described. The Harley type one is either 1.5" 1.75 or 2". I can't remember. But I think the description was not accurate on the Amazon listing.
 

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Another thing I wonder about is the size of slip-ons...
Does a larger muffler mean more sound deadening?
Does a certain size muffler actually negate flow?
Can we use muffler slip-ons that were not designed for the R3 and still benefit performance?

Found the answer from a 22 year veteran at Tenneco Walker Exhaust Systems industry from wheelhorseforum.com.

How beneficial are full exhaust ceramic coatings?
Do exhaust coatings really "improve efficiency" as this marketing page claims?
...ceramic coated headers...decreases back pressure, which improves the efficiency of the engine...
jet-hot.com
Would repacking a cheap muffler produce better sound deadening without restricting flow?

I wonder this, because quality checks might not exist (as @Dreadwil could attest to with regard to the unthreaded bung) with cheap systems, but additionally, they could just be using cheap packing material & methods (and that could be their quality standard).

Jayrod1318 from advrider.com said, "I swear up and down the moose 3 layer is your best bet...", discussing muffler packing for 4T dirtbikes. Here's the Moose 20-inch repack kit.

WHX24 mentions the potential heat absorption using "rock wool insulation" as packing material, but doesn't swear by its sound absorption at wheelhorseforum.com.

The first article about muffler packing I read
A blown-out muffler isn’t just louder, it loses performance, too...
motocrossactionmag.com
A great read by RevZilla on repacking mufflers
...blown-out exhaust packing robs you of low-end horsepower...many street bike exhausts need to be repacked, too.

4T exhaust temps are lots hotter than their 2T brethren, and the packing in those mufflers burns and vibrates.
revzilla.com
Emotional horsepower. Noise annoys. Period. Most of the 4-strokes nowadays have so much power, why would you want to go up another 10 decibels for a small amount of ponies?
sharetrails.org
From what I've been told, the looser the insulation is wrapped, the quieter the exhaust note. But the downside is that it won't last quite as long as having more insulation tightly wrapped.
thumpertalk.com
 

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What I like about the Delkevic website is that they have many product options. The beauty of their website is that you can select any of their systems and their site has images that you can zoom in and see the actual muffler installed on the R3. I like the sound of larger muffler but when I compare the images of the 18" Oval installed to the 14" Oval I would prefer to live with the 14" for appearance.

The other selling point of Delkevic for me is that I have sent three emails with questions of specific products and I receive a response within a day. Also they emailed me a dyno test for comparison. So prior to a sale, their response has been excellent.
 

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@R3Wheelchair what do you think the purpose is with the exhaust chamber on this pipe (ebay)? Obviously they've got a baffle inside (or so it appears), but I wonder if there's actually any benefit to it.

This pipe ($143+ tax&shipping) and a slip-on may produce the performance gains without the cost of a premium system.

Going this route and using this Delkelvic slip-on would cost about $500 (much more than the Chinesium exhaust, but still less than the majority of brand name exhausts).

Repacking an oval pipe should be easier than any of the other oddly-shaped mufflers available.

I suppose the downside would be if I ever wanted panniers (pannier on the exhaust side would need to be shallow). Here's a Delkelvic Stubby 14" Oval slip-on.

 

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On my dirt bikes I experimented several different ways to reduce noise while not impacting performance. The best results I ever achieved was to purchase some expanded metal and roll it into a coil like in the photo above. I then secured it into the muffler outlet with a piece of wire across the diameter. The expanded metal had a length of about 65mm about 2 1/2" if I remember. The upside to the DIY application is that you could roll the expanded metal in a tighter roll for more noise suppression if you wanted.

68543
 

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What I am reading is that baffles actually cause back pressure (counterproductive to the intended high-flow of an aftermarket exhaust).
It makes sense, but I wonder just how much baffling (or what designs, specifically) starts to diminish the benefits of a high flow exhaust.

Chinesium Alternatives
It almost seems more reasonable to just buy a Delkelvic full exhaust, like the 14" Stubby SS for $335.95. See spoiler "How's your bung hole?" which explains why I just crossed out this as a good choice.

How's your bung hole?
Ensure the O2 bung is properly placed; buying a pipe where it's in the right place but unthreaded, I feel, is better than getting a pipe that has a poorly-placed O2 bung that is threaded.

The Delkelvic full exhaust has (what I think could be considered as) a poorly-placed O2 bung (just after the collector) as seen here



as compared to the Chinesium exhaust



But additionally, as @Dreadwil had done, I would get a mount welded to the end of the Chinesium exhaust to support the weight of pipes from the exhaust port to the slip-on.

8" Mini, 9" oval and 14" Round Baffle removal procedure

Or instead of a baffle, just repack the Delkelvic with that Moose 20-inch repack kit. And share the results, of course.

Slip-on alternatives
Lextek (119USD)

There really aren't that many options for the type of slip-on I'd expect would be quieter than all the rest (shorties are common with the R3, but I worry they'll be too loud & obnoxious aka annoying).

[Loading... Please wait for additions @bennyrides is searching]
Webike.japan.net is too slow to load for my patience.

Ceramic Coating
It might also be beneficial to get the Chinesium pipe ceramic coated, to increase exhaust output by preventing the buildup of heat on any given point on the pipe (this is my current understanding of ceramic coating).

Here's a discussion on ceramic coating from v-twinforum.com

HPCoatings (Aussie company)

Cerakote Glacier Black ceramic coating

Unloved Stock Exhaust
Interesting note: I haven't touched the stock exhaust from 2016; I can't imagine that if there is packing inside, what condition it'll be in if I open up the muffler which I feel (for the sake of my curiosity) I would definitely attempt to document.

@Dreadwil, tell me what you think - did you consider Delkelvic before going the Chinesium route?

Fitting your pipe
@Dreadwil bought this system from company ANODIZING, with 51mm O.D. (outer diameter).

If any of your decide to go with the Chinesium route, ensure the O.D. of the exhaust pipe outlet matches (or is within a few mm of) the I.D. (inner diameter) of the slip-on you purchase (if you buy the pipe and muffler separate).
 
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