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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ran a few sessions on the R3 at the track for the first time yesterday and for the life of me I couldn't keep the footpegs off the ground. I removed the little feelers at the ends and still ran into problems. Are all you track riders/racers using aftermarket rearsets? Any other stock parts touching down that you noticed? Kickstand, exhaust heat shield etc.

On another note, this bike is fun on the track. Really fun. It killed a couple Ninja 250's in the straights, the Rosso II's, suspension and brakes all felt great, but I felt a lot of frame flex in long sweepers. Fortunately the guys on the Ninjas said their bikes do the same thing, so no big deal I guess.
 

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You definitely want new rearsets or adjustment plates. And I am raising the bike a bit now that I have my new shock. But I'm doing all of this based on other people's experience. I'll know for sure how it does this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You definitely want new rearsets or adjustment plates. And I am raising the bike a bit now that I have my new shock. But I'm doing all of this based on other people's experience. I'll know for sure how it does this weekend.
What shock? You're leaving the front alone? The forks are already about as far as they'll go, but with some extenders you could raise the front a little too.
 

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I have the JRI shock and Andreani cartridges up front. You can see them (sort of) in my build thread. I will raise the front to match the rear tonight, otherwise it might be a bit.... unstable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the JRI shock and Andreani cartridges up front. You can see them (sort of) in my build thread. I will raise the front to match the rear tonight, otherwise it might be a bit.... unstable.
So the Andreanis extend the fork legs a bit? Looks like when you installed them you've got a couple inches to raise the front still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Made plates from 10mm x 75mm alum 100mm back/75mm up to mount the stock rearsets to my liking.
Flipped the gearbox arm 180 degrees on the spline, used 105mm of .250 ChroMo tube which I tapped 6mm and fitted to the Male end of the rod for reverse shift.

Swapped the handlebars left to right and turned upside down , redrilled the index holes for the switchblock and throttle, Used ChroMo tube for 10mm spacers to clear the stock bodywork for now.
This put the bars way low.





Dropped the forks another 5.4mm thru the triples to load the front to suit my style,
Set the sag fairly tight as It will loosen up in time.
DID non O ring racing chain 2 links longer for longer wheelbase and help weight distribution and still sharp steering, covers all bases, whether I fluked it or not its a setup I always wanted to do to a Ninja as I used to unsettle the past couple bikes on change of direction.


Only thing scraping is weld on the muffler, even though I managed to lift the zorst 20mm mounted on a shorter hanger.


Total cost $110 for the chain and a few dollars for Steel and Alloy.
Don't need to waste money, ive taken so much weight out of this thing it flies.
 

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Aufitt,

If you can ever find some scales (trucking company, etc.) to weigh it on, let us know the final "fighting weight".

What exhaust, if any, are you planning to put on it?

Cheers!
 

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Aufitt,

If you're taking that path, I'd add a seat cowl for sure. I think it's one of the best cometic changes and it saves some weight too.:)
 

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Aufitt,

If you can ever find some scales (trucking company, etc.) to weigh it on, let us know the final "fighting weight".

What exhaust, if any, are you planning to put on it?

Cheers!

I have 100gram, 5000gram and 2x 200kg scales for weight bias and distribution, ive weighed everything and documented ii.
Youd be blown away at what stuff like the sidestand and its mount weighs


Waiting for TYGA Thailand to make the full system,
They are half the weight and price of anything else for Ninjas, albeit often loud with Maggot can.
Jesse to sort the Bazazz for it and then the Saitaniya race bodywork can go on. with higher seat.

Aufitt,

If you're taking that path, I'd add a seat cowl for sure. I think it's one of the best cometic changes and it saves some weight too.:)

Wont be wasting money on fashion.
Remove your pillion seat strap and the metal plates it mounts on, that's where the weight is.


Wont hog the thread, need to find which section to do my build in?


I only had 2 short weeks to get it ready for the track day, and had to ride it on the road for 400km, havnt touched it since as building the other racebike first.
 

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Hi Aufitt. I would really like to drop the forks of my R3, but I'm not really sure how to do it.
Any pros and cos you would like to mention about doing this modification?? Does it feel sportier?
 

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Ran a few sessions on the R3 at the track for the first time yesterday and for the life of me I couldn't keep the footpegs off the ground. I removed the little feelers at the ends and still ran into problems. Are all you track riders/racers using aftermarket rearsets? Any other stock parts touching down that you noticed? Kickstand, exhaust heat shield etc.

On another note, this bike is fun on the track. Really fun. It killed a couple Ninja 250's in the straights, the Rosso II's, suspension and brakes all felt great, but I felt a lot of frame flex in long sweepers. Fortunately the guys on the Ninjas said their bikes do the same thing, so no big deal I guess.


I am a mid pack racer and have a JRI shock and AK20's in the forks all sprung for my 240# weight. I did a few track days with the OEM rearsets with feelers removed and occasionally lightly touched down the right foot peg. This is even with raising the rear ride height by adjusting the shock 8mm longer.


Luckily my woodcraft rearsets arrived before my first race on the R3. Even in their lowest setting the bottom of the foot peg is about an inch higher than stock and the pegs don't stick out as far either. Now I occasionally touch down the OEM muffler. Have Arrow exhaust on the way to eliminate all my ground clearance issues.
 

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I am a mid pack racer and have a JRI shock and AK20's in the forks all sprung for my 240# weight. I did a few track days with the OEM rearsets with feelers removed and occasionally lightly touched down the right foot peg. This is even with raising the rear ride height by adjusting the shock 8mm longer.


Luckily my woodcraft rearsets arrived before my first race on the R3. Even in their lowest setting the bottom of the foot peg is about an inch higher than stock and the pegs don't stick out as far either. Now I occasionally touch down the OEM muffler. Have Arrow exhaust on the way to eliminate all my ground clearance issues.
When you touched the OEM exhaust on the ground, were you running the JRI shock at the stock length or did you raise the rear? Were you pretty close to max lean angle or was the exhaust dragging really holding back your corner speed?
This is valuable info I'd like to gather for a post on my blog.
thanks!
 

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Would some thing like this work? Dimotiv is making a Riser Kit for the rear shock mount. Looks like it raises the lower shock mount about 3/4 inch?

I was thinking about it for my stock shock since I weigh alot and I'm sure the rear is lower than it should be. Probably messing up the geometry. Too low in the back. It might actually handle better. Then I might put a preload fork cap on.

Any opinion track guys? Should the bike be taller in the rear than it is stock?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIMOTIV-Ris...ash=item2100ae9b4e:g:xGUAAOSwu4BVzZtj&vxp=mtr
 

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When you touched the OEM exhaust on the ground, were you running the JRI shock at the stock length or did you raise the rear? Were you pretty close to max lean angle or was the exhaust dragging really holding back your corner speed?
This is valuable info I'd like to gather for a post on my blog.
thanks!

I added a little length to the JRI over stock before installing it, approximately 10mm. It was at nearly max lean so it didn't slow me down or upset the bike much.
 
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