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I get the theory behind a higher CCA battery, because it would turn over the engine faster
Nah, having more amps on tap doesn't make anything spin faster immediately. Higher voltage makes things spin faster. What you're thinking of is that more CCA keeps voltage from dropping sooner rather than later.

Honestly not happy about it and my red oil light is coming on at start ups as well.
This is normal and expected.
 

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I'll get a little bit of delayed starting as well. However i'll connect my R3 to my battery tender every couple weeks and it's good as new. OEM battery is a piece, I think there's another thread somewhere talking about this.
 

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greetings friends Sorry but my English is not fluent. I have a question, regarding the ignited of the Yamaha R3 in hot, that you have been able to know to the solution of the problem. I wait your answer. Thank you
 

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greetings friends Sorry but my English is not fluent. I have a question, regarding the ignited of the Yamaha R3 in hot, that you have been able to know to the solution of the problem. I wait your answer. Thank you
Rare problem, but this has turned out to be tight exhaust valves on a brand new bike before.
 

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my 390 duke has done this a few time, resetting the ignition has always worked, (turning key off and back on) either that or it just needed a few more seconds to vaporize out the excess fuel.
 

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So I had this happen to me tonight after a long ride on the highway for 20 mins and then I stopped at a store, went in, bought what I wanted and came back out. Couldn't have been more than 10 mins. Came back, went to start it and it took two tries. This has only happened once before but it sounds like I'm not the only one. Could there be more to this than just simple things like battery being low? Scared me a bit - didn't bring my phone with me and I was definitely not within walking distance to home. I always turn the key, let the tach do its sweep and listen for the fuel pump doing its priming. Tonight, the priming wasn't as long - and I didn't expect it to be either - it had just run so it start right up.



I should note that when cold, it always fires right up. I don't have any stock bulbs anymore either - everything is LED except headlights which are HID. But the battery was cranking hard - engine just didn't want to catch. Sputtered a bit on first try, then I let it crank longer on the second try and it reluctantly fired. My bike has less than 2000 kms on it and has had all the recalls done and even the first oil change. It runs perfectly otherwise. I'm wondering if it's time for me to do the Iridium plug swap.



Anyways, just wondering if anyone else has had this issue recently.
 

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So I had this happen to me tonight after a long ride on the highway for 20 mins and then I stopped at a store, went in, bought what I wanted and came back out. Couldn't have been more than 10 mins. Came back, went to start it and it took two tries. This has only happened once before but it sounds like I'm not the only one. Could there be more to this than just simple things like battery being low? Scared me a bit - didn't bring my phone with me and I was definitely not within walking distance to home. I always turn the key, let the tach do its sweep and listen for the fuel pump doing its priming. Tonight, the priming wasn't as long - and I didn't expect it to be either - it had just run so it start right up.



I should note that when cold, it always fires right up. I don't have any stock bulbs anymore either - everything is LED except headlights which are HID. But the battery was cranking hard - engine just didn't want to catch. Sputtered a bit on first try, then I let it crank longer on the second try and it reluctantly fired. My bike has less than 2000 kms on it and has had all the recalls done and even the first oil change. It runs perfectly otherwise. I'm wondering if it's time for me to do the Iridium plug swap.



Anyways, just wondering if anyone else has had this issue recently.
Sometimes this still happens to me when I get gas after a 20 minute freeway ride. Turning the bike off to pump, then turning it back on in like 60 seconds.. it has taken two tries before.. but I just started holding the starter button just a tad longer and when it sounds like it wants to turn just hit it with a little throttle and it seems to work.
 

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I too have noticed that only sometimes, and not often, I have to hit the starter a 2nd time to get the engine running. My R3 is a 2017, and has done this from brand new, and contionues to do so at the current odoemeter mileage of 5800 kilometers.

Also, it has done it when it has had (a) the stock factory tune, (b) a temporary FTECU tune with Graves cat elim exhaust, and (c) now that it has the Graves tune specifically designed for the Graves Cat Elim exhaust. So, I don't think a tune makes a difference. It's something else, but I have no idea what.

I haven't pursued a diagnosis simply because it's not much of a problem. Occasionally, instead of starting "instantly", it cranks for a second or 2 without starting, I turn the key off, and immediately try again and it ALWAYS fires then.

I'd love to know the cause of course, but it's not "an issue" for me.

Jim G
 

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My R3 does the same when it's hot. I guess that it has something to do with the fuel lines close to the hot engine.
When the engine is really warm and the outside temperature is high too, the gas in the fuel lines might boil and cause gas bubbles, creating a vapor lock. The fuel pump then has to work really hard to suck fuel into the injection system again.
This is just a guess because the fuel injected Lycoming engine in my airplane has this "problem" when hot (...and this behaviour is well understood and documented) and it feels exactly the same with the Yamaha R3.
If the engine of my R3 doesn't fire within 2 seconds, I just wait 2 seconds longer and apply a little throttle when starting it again and then the engine usuually fires quickly.
 

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My R3 does the same when its hot. I guess that it has something to do with the fuel lines close to the hot engine.
When the engine is really warm and the outside temperature is high too, the gas in the fuel lines might boil and cause gas bubbles, creating a vapor lock. The fuel pump then has to work really hard to suck fuel into the injection system again.
This is just a guess because the fuel injected Lycoming engine in my airplane has this "problem" when hot (...and this behaviour is well understood and documented) and it feels exactly the same with the Yamaha R3.
If the engine of my R3 doesn't fire within 2 seconds, I just wait 2 seconds longer and apply a little throttle when starting it again and then the engine usuually fires quickly.
Yup, I have the same problem with mine. Just give it a little gas if the first "hot" start doesn't work.
 

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Hey guys, I know this is an older post but I have a solution so I thought I'd add.

Let me guess, most of you guys are running premium fuel?

I had this exact same problem with my XSR900, where it wouldn't always start first go when cold, and would never start first go when hot. This happened when I ran it on 98 (in Australia, we have 91, 95 and 98). After switching back to 95 the problem vanished.

I then noticed this happening on my R3 as soon as I bought it (5000km). So the first time I filled up, I used 91. Problem solved. The R3 does not have a high compression engine, and therefore any higher octane or more premium fuels are just going to make it have a harder time starting (as they're typically slightly harder to ignite).

For whatever reason, Yamaha seems runs their bikes so close to the edge that a simple change in octane can have a noticable effect. I can't say why this is as I don't know the parameters of their tuning at idle/startup but I'm guessing it's exceptionally lean to reduce emisions.
 

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Does it even attempt to turn over? Does the dash read-out info work properly? Not to dumb things down... but is the "kill switch" in the run position? If no power at the dash... what work has been done recently? Battery replacement? Any fender deletes or turn signal replacements? Anything?
 
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