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Hey guys;
Have a maintenance question regarding the R3. Was reading an on-line version of the 2016 R3 owner manual about oil and filter changes,..among other items,...just to familiarize myself with the bike. If I read it correctly(and I'm sure I did),it talks about torquing down the oil filter,..why in heck would you do that as I have always been told that all you need to do is hand tighten them,..even on a car? I can understand torquing down the oil drain plug,but what if you don't have access to a torque wrench? Some things I'll want to learn to do on my own(oil and filter change being one of them),but more complex things I just don't have the proper/specialized tools for like adjusting chain tension/alignment,etc. which I'd rather leave to a mechanic who has the right tools for the job. Also,how in the world can you check coolant level w/o removing any faring panels? I don't have my bike yet,but just reading up on some things ahead of time!
 

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It's up to you but I would just hand tighten the oil filter. A torque wrench may be wise for the oil drain bolt but you would get a feel for it when you've done it a few times. Just don't swing on it!


A torque wrench is a useful tool to have for some things but I would still put some marker paint (I use a tip-ex pen) on the bolt just to keep an eye on it for the first few rides then you can pick it off if it bothers you. In all honesty, I mostly use mine for the wheel nuts when adjusting the chain and whatnot.
 

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Not understanding why you would properly torque down one thing that has the possibility to come undone , come off and spill oil, but not another thing that has the potential to do the same thing.
 

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Harbor freight torque wrenches are good enough and cheap. Loosen the tension on the wrench after use for storage. Chain alignment tool is cheap too, but it's not needed. Use the markings for alignment.
 

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R3man, my advice is to get a torque wrench or two, depending on the range you need. I've stripped out many fasteners from overtightening... such a pain and not easily fixed. Also take time to look up the correct torque values, don't just take somebody's word. Not that someone would intentionally steer you wrong, but it can be difficult to keep all those numbers straight in your head!
 

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Torque the oil drainage plug - there's a crush washer on there that should be replaced each time. But the filter should only be hand tight.
 

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...and a good torque wrench is pretty affordable on amazon. Read the reviews though. The one I bought was a no-name, but the truth of the matter was that "snap-on"s patent expired and the market has opened up for good quality, exceptionally priced, identical knock-offs.
 

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Torque the oil drainage plug - there's a crush washer on there that should be replaced each time. But the filter should only be hand tight.
According to the R3 manual torque for the oil filter is 17 N-m / 12 ft-lbs.
Oil drain plug is 20 N-m / 14 ft-lbs.
 
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