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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so while trying to put on some shorty levers, I completely ****** my bike and ****** up the lever holder and ridged the top. So I was like okay, I'll replace the part and took off the bar end then ripped off the grip, while trying to take off the screw for the thing that holds the headlights signal lights, I ridged the fucking screw now it won't come off.... I've completely ****** my bike and although it isn't a big deal I feel like my bike life is over ugh it's depressing. Anyway, pictures below for reference.
"Change the levers they said,
It'll be easy they said..."
 

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If you have a stripped screw extractor, you could use that. If you have a dremel tool, you can use the wheel to cut a new slot in the screw head and try getting it out that way. If you have a drill, you can drill the screw out and remove just the head, then use vice-grips to remove the remaining screw once you take the assy. apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I.... have none of that... I was going to tow the bike to a place less than a mile away but most places want to charge me 75 dollars. Ugh..
 

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OK - borrow a drill from someone, use a bit (1/8") to drill the center of the screw head just deep enough to go through the thickness of the screw head to the screw shank. The bit should be roughly the same size as the screw shank (the threaded part), maybe just a hair larger. Take your time so you don't inadvertently create more things to fix. A stripped screw is not uncommon when doing work and a guaranteed time increaser to any project. The screw itself is a standard metric machine screw, so you should be able to find something close at you local hardware-type place.
 

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Dont take this the wrong way, but stay away from tools. And bikes. Go practice on something that is worthless in the meantime. You never thought while in the process of stripping that philips head, maybe you should apply downward pressure while slowly trying to turn it so you wouldnt strip it? Takes QUITE a bit to strip the head, assuming you werent using a power screwdriver.

Replacing the levers is easy, as long as you know what you are doing, or at least can think it through. Why do you feel you need to remove the entire perch? Have you destroyed it and need to replace it? If I were you, I would leave the lights control on for now, and try to get your lever back on (assuming the perch isnt destryed), then slot the philips head screw that you stripped, replace it, and start over replacing the lever. How did you mess up the perch?

In the meantime, do as stirz said, either cut a slot into it or use an EZ out. The slot or EZ would be my choice, since its probably a softer metal, it will dig right in and start turning. EZ outs on engine bolts are no fun. You can also try gripping it with a needle nose and turning, but you risk gouging up the plastic on your controls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was a stupid mistake, **** happens. I took off the light controls already and removed the lever holder. It was the factories fault because when I took it to the dealer they noticed the screws were messed up and the adjuster for the clutch lever had grooves or something like that. Since I need pliers initially to remove them. Which is odd since they told me you don't need them. I ordered new parts which were expensive as **** but when they come in I'll put it all back together. It was easy but I guess I just had bad luck.
 

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A couple of other options you could try - might save you some bucks.
Everyone who wrenches for any length of time will strip a bolt - it happens, and usually after all the others come out just fine and you think everything is going great.
 

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It was a stupid mistake, **** happens. I took off the light controls already and removed the lever holder. It was the factories fault because when I took it to the dealer they noticed the screws were messed up and the adjuster for the clutch lever had grooves or something like that. Since I need pliers initially to remove them. Which is odd since they told me you don't need them. I ordered new parts which were expensive as **** but when they come in I'll put it all back together. It was easy but I guess I just had bad luck.
I understand shi t happens. I wasnt trying to make fun of you though I am sure thats how it may look (typed words lose alot of meaning vs spoken words). A few of the forums folks know me, and I am a smartass, but in a playful way If I offended you, my bad man, didnt mean it that way.

You dont need pliers to loosen the clutch adjuster. If you notice, its slotted. Stick a flathead or a key in there, give it a turn and its nice and loose. You can then loosen it with your fingers.

What grooves are you talking about on the clutch lever? If I remember correctly the R3 lever is not adjustable.The adjuster I was referring to is the one on the clutch cable, not the lever.

If you dont mind, post pics of what those groves are, or any other part that may help someone else out if they have to do this as well.
 

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I recently dealt with a stripped screw with a small hacksaw to cut a new slot. You can probably buy a small saw for a few bucks. Vice grips should also only cost a few bucks and is handy to have for tons of other things.
 

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I recently dealt with a stripped screw with a small hacksaw to cut a new slot. You can probably buy a small saw for a few bucks. Vice grips should also only cost a few bucks and is handy to have for tons of other things.
Hacksaw might work but would be a tight fit. A vise grip definitely isnt going t fit in there. Did you take a look at pic 2?

Doesnt matter too much now, he said he got the screw off already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I understand shi t happens. I wasnt trying to make fun of you though I am sure thats how it may look (typed words lose alot of meaning vs spoken words). A few of the forums folks know me, and I am a smartass, but in a playful way If I offended you, my bad man, didnt mean it that way.

You dont need pliers to loosen the clutch adjuster. If you notice, its slotted. Stick a flathead or a key in there, give it a turn and its nice and loose. You can then loosen it with your fingers.

What grooves are you talking about on the clutch lever? If I remember correctly the R3 lever is not adjustable.The adjuster I was referring to is the one on the clutch cable, not the lever.

If you dont mind, post pics of what those groves are, or any other part that may help someone else out if they have to do this as well.
Oh nah, I didn't take it badly at all. In fact I kindly take criticism if it'll help. Oh and I tried that, I used a flat head on the circular one that you're supposed to get loose before unscrewing the one that holds the cable. I can't take a pic since it's dark but trust me, they were on really tight. I ordered the new piece so hopefully this one comes out better.
Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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What happened to if a ain't broken don't fix it. Well that went out the door with the little R3 for myself also. I just take my time and if I need to purchase the right tool for the job I go and get what I need. It's a hobby and I love it. The bolts on the bike are delicate and need to be carefully removed in some cases. Ive read people stripping all kinds of bolts, putting on rear sets etc. So I'm on the careful side when removing them. Had a little trouble with the block off plate bolt hex today. just made sure Hex was in all the way and slowly turned and pushed down hard and it came loose. Was going to possible strip, but it came loose. I started to think it could easily of been a problem for me today. I installed the Full Exhaust r77 and PCV and block off this week . Project 100% done. sounds so good and runs great. did have back fires without the PCV and block off. But now smooth riding and more power for sure and LOUDER but not crazy loud.
 

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Not picking on the OP, but I would bet a hand me down or been passed around #2 phillips screwdriver. Or worse, a #1 phillips cause he couldn't find that ole #2 . In a house hold with limited tool availability, I can see that #2 phillips being used as a can opener, weed puller, chisel, grout scraper (I have actually seen this)...you get the picture. All joking aside, invest in some quality tools. The cheap stuff may get you by temporarily, but they will eventually ruin hardware.
 

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Not picking on the OP, but I would bet a hand me down or been passed around #2 phillips screwdriver. Or worse, a #1 phillips cause he couldn't find that ole #2 . In a house hold with limited tool availability, I can see that #2 phillips being used as a can opener, weed puller, chisel, grout scraper (I have actually seen this)...you get the picture. All joking aside, invest in some quality tools. The cheap stuff may get you by temporarily, but they will eventually ruin hardware.
If we want to get even pickier, then the correct screwdrivers would not be Phillips, but Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) - they're close, but the JIS is the 'correct' one for the fastener.
 
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