[cornerslider]

Buy a 520 conversion kit, with stock gearing.... You can buy the "Vortex" kit (sprockets & o-ring chain) for about $150-$175. As someone that used to like to "ride them to failure" in the past- it's TOTALLY not worth it!!!! After throwing a chain in the interstate (in an urban area during rush hour traffic)- I learned a lot that day. I can't imagine how beat-to-$hit your OEM chain is with 30K on it!!! I take very good care of my chain/sprockets, and my OEM on my R3 was toast after 5K...... Do yourself a favor, and buy NEW... You got more out of the OEM than anyone should-

 

[Renboy]

Buy a 520 conversion kit, with stock gearing.... You can buy the "Vortex" kit (sprockets & o-ring chain) for about $150-$175. As someone that used to like to "ride them to failure" in the past- it's TOTALLY not worth it!!!! After throwing a chain in the interstate (in an urban area during rush hour traffic)- I learned a lot that day. I can't imagine how beat-to-$hit your OEM chain is with 30K on it!!! I take very good care of my chain/sprockets, and my OEM on my R3 was toast after 5K...... Do yourself a favor, and buy NEW... You got more out of the OEM than anyone should-

What? How can you possibly destroy a chain in 5k on a bike that makes 38hp? Especially if it's a sealed chain. On my Daytona 675 that has seen rain, sand, and yes, even snow, I can get 20k out of a chain. The guys at Norton can get almost 1k out of an unsealed 418 chain (which is basically a bicycle chain) on race bike builds.

 

[cornerslider]

What? How can you possibly destroy a chain in 5k on a bike that makes 38hp? Especially if it's a sealed chain. On my Daytona 675 that has seen rain, sand, and yes, even snow, I can get 20k out of a chain. The guys at Norton can get almost 1k out of an unsealed 418 chain (which is basically a bicycle chain) on race bike builds.

After I had a chain fail, I kind of got a bit of OCD...... Once a chain develops any "tight spots", I replace it. My OEM chain with only 5K on it- had several 😞. Could I have kept riding it that way- absolutely....... I choose not to do so . Also, I've seen those 418 chains fail frequently on the R3. I'm a club racer on a FZ-07, and know that most the R3 crowd only gets 2 race weekends out of a 418 chain, some change it every weekend-

 

[Renboy]

After I had a chain fail, I kind of got a bit of OCD...... Once a chain develops any "tight spots", I replace it. My OEM chain with only 5K on it- had several 😞. Could I have kept riding it that way- absolutely....... I choose no to do so . Also, I've seen those 418 chains fail frequently on the R3. I'm a club racer on a FZ-07, and know that most the R3 crowd only gets 2 race weekends out of a 418 chain, some change it every weekend-

Funny, that's a complete contradiction to a guy that races here with an R3. I was apprehensive about switching to a 418 on my son's bike, but he said he went all last season (including sprint races) on the same chain because he wanted to test it's resilience. I'm going to try it and see how it goes. I'll post back here next year with the results.

 

[cornerslider]

The 418 chains last longer with a "lighter" rider. I know guys that are less than 150# get more life out of them. Some of the folks that change them every weekend are well over that.... Let us know your thoughts after trying one. I've seen several fail during a race (one that took out the motor cases 😞)..... That failure was on a chain with 2 race weekends on it, and about a 175# rider. I just know you'll never win a race, if you don't FINISH a race -

 

[Renboy]

Believe me when I say you are mimicking my sentiments exactly as I was messaging back and forth with the racer here that uses the setup. My son is only 14 and weighs 140lbs with gear, so hopefully it'll work out. In any case, it's club racing and nothing other than (a bit of pride and) the cost of materials is on the line. Not to mention, I can swap back to the 520 that is there now in under 30 min in the pits.

 

[cornerslider]

Believe me when I say you are mimicking my sentiments exactly as I was messaging back and forth with the racer here that uses the setup. My son is only 14 and weighs 140lbs with gear, so hopefully it'll work out. In any case, it's club racing and nothing other than (a bit of pride and) the cost of materials is on the line. Not to mention, I can swap back to the 520 that is there now in under 30 min in the pits.

With a lighter rider (like your son), I think it will last longer . Good luck, and let us know how it turns out-

 

[Dr. John]

I'm not out to question any ones knowledge, or opinions, regarding motorcycles, and their parts, but being the cheap, old bastige that I am, I've run through lots of parts ( or consumables as they're called ). I overlube chains and cables, underlube at oil change intervals, using rotella @ 3.5K, and check tire pressure a lot. Basically using the same chain test I've used for 50 odd yrs., I see how far I can pull it off the rear sprocket, push pull at a few links forward and back, then check for side to side slop.All within my parameters. I'm no racer, but enjoy the **** out of the R3 because it's perfect for how I ride these days. it's light, which makes it 300 lbs. less than my S-Ten, and on an average Sunday backroad ride of 180-200 miles I come home smiling for not having tossed that extra 300 lbs. around all day. So anyway, the chain is good for another couple o' thou, and if nobody has a cheap set here( think of it as recycling) I'll probably give the Niche chain and sprocket set a shot for $ 80-90 as I just put a set on my TW, and they aint bad.

 

[cornerslider]

I'm not out to question any ones knowledge, or opinions, regarding motorcycles, and their parts, but being the cheap, old bastige that I am, I've run through lots of parts ( or consumables as they're called ). I overlube chains and cables, underlube at oil change intervals, using rotella @ 3.5K, and check tire pressure a lot. Basically using the same chain test I've used for 50 odd yrs., I see how far I can pull it off the rear sprocket, push pull at a few links forward and back, then check for side to side slop.All within my parameters. I'm no racer, but enjoy the **** out of the R3 because it's perfect for how I ride these days. it's light, which makes it 300 lbs. less than my S-Ten, and on an average Sunday backroad ride of 180-200 miles I come home smiling for not having tossed that extra 300 lbs. around all day. So anyway, the chain is good for another couple o' thou, and if nobody has a cheap set here( think of it as recycling) I'll probably give the Niche chain and sprocket set a shot for $ 80-90 as I just put a set on my TW, and they aint bad.

All due respect..... I've learned the hard way- "you get what you pay for" with chains. I used to run a 450 Supermoto @ track days. I tried some "bargain" chains, as there isn't a ton of HP available on a single cylinder bike. My "bargain" chain was DONE after only one track day. I've never heard of a "Niche" chain before? My gut says the OEM chain is most likely better quality than what you are looking at (Yamaha has REALLY good lawyers). Obviously you are an adult, and are going to make your own choices.... Just remember that those choices- "may" have consequences. If/when that chain falls, it may happen at a time when that broken chain can "take-out" your engine cases, and/or swing-arm. My personal opinion is that getting a "good deal" on a chain, is kinda like getting a "good deal" on a Tattoo... Is it something you can live with for the rest of your life????