HOw feasible is that? You would have to add a better battery, no? Also, I am sure there aren't many accessory lights to add to your bike that are aesthetically pleasing, not that it trumps safety. I find people look quickly, and given the small silhouette of the bike have a hard time gauging its speed.You are definitely more visible which means you are potentially safer. Just be sure to lower them at dusk so you don't piss car drivers off. Those safety folks who have studied this claim that the triangle effect is the most conspicuous. That means your headlight plus accessory lights on either side of the bike closer to axle height.
Marc
Absolutely feasible. The charging system can easily handle an extra couple of lights. I'm running a Gerbings heated jacket which consumes about 30 watts with no problem. A larger battery has nothing to do with it. It is all about the charging system. You might want to do some research before you make statements like that.How feasible is that? You would have to add a better battery, no?
Dude, it wasn't a statement, it was a question.Absolutely feasible. The charging system can easily handle an extra couple of lights. I'm running a Gerbings heated jacket which consumes about 30 watts with no problem. A larger battery has nothing to do with it. It is all about the charging system. You might want to do some research before you make statements like that.
Marc
The point is actually huge. The difference when a bike is coming towards you during the day with the low beam on versus the high beam is dramatic. Have a riding buddy ride towards you with the low beam on and then again with the high beam on and you'll see the difference. White gear is certainly helpful but riding with the high beam on is way more noticeable in my experience. Give it a try. BTW, your comment about riding at night is right on. The danger is less from on-coming traffic as drivers are normally looking for headlights but much greater from traffic crossing your path who can't judge how fast you're going as well as from animals and hard to see debris.if we are talking about riding during the day...during daylight hours.... whats the point? I really dont see any advantage having the extra headlight lit up during the day would be... buy a white helmet and wear white gear and throw on a high viz vest....apparently drivers notice white the quickest compared to other colors
FWIW I dont ride at night time because risk goes through the roof
Depends on the situation I think. The sun can cause glare and affect a driver's visibility and wash you out. At night, your lights are brighter but they can also be overshadowed by all the car lights behind you and almost disguise you. That is why you should use your flash to pass. One of the things I tell first time riders as a rider of like 25 years, I tell them to avoid hanging in a cars blind spot-I see it happen a lot.if we are talking about riding during the day...during daylight hours.... whats the point? I really dont see any advantage having the extra headlight lit up during the day would be... buy a white helmet and wear white gear and throw on a high viz vest....apparently drivers notice white the quickest compared to other colors
FWIW I dont ride at night time because risk goes through the roof
No worries Marc. Like texts, you can't discern tone in posts. I wasn't taking it as an attack or anything. I read something really quick on figuring out excess capacity-the battery, alternator, and watts and peak volts, and you multiply this for that and you get this. I just read it in cursory fashion though, and it hasn't stuck yet.Sorry, I thought you were making a statement. The best way to determine if the load you've added is overtaxing the charging system is to insert an ammeter in line between the positive terminal of the battery and the red wire. With all the accessories turned on and the bike running you want to see the ammeter showing a positive value when you rev the motor a bit. As long as its showing positive the system can handle the load. If it goes negative with the engine revved up the battery will eventually lose its charge. You can also do it with a voltmeter hooked up to the battery looking for 13.1 volts or more with the bike running and all the accessories turned on. Using a voltmeter is not as accurate as using an actual ammeter. The R3's charging system as an example can handle my Gerbings jacket drawing 30 watts as long as I leave the headlight on low. If I run it with the high beam on all the time it will discharge and eventually run the battery down. The size of the battery doesn't have much to do with it. If the charging system is at discharge, the battery will eventually run down, a larger capacity battery will simply take longer.
As for the aesthetics, there are a number of suppliers who specialize in exactly that and supply very nice looking accessory lights in various strengths and designs. In any case I wasn't suggesting adding extra lights, I was just saying that adding extra lights in order to make a triangle effect seems to be a very good way to make the bike more conspicuous. Some guys add extra lights to all their bikes but I never have. Again, I apologize for jumping on you.
Marc
Yeah exactly, and these get caught up in CC size like it's a dick size war. A lot of these numb nuts think bigger is better. I am a skilled rider, but have been a 600 guy my whole life. Hit 40 and don't do 130 anymore, especially in NY and love the R3 for its comfort, it still has some giddy up, and handles like a dream.I've also done a lot of riding in Europe and you are exactly right. They have a tiered licensing system and very strict training. The other point that helps is that most drivers in Europe are coming from bicycles and small motorcycles so they're much more aware of bikes than drivers over here. Just the fact that their roads are smaller and twisty makes them better drivers. Some of the most fun I've had riding has been in Italy. Those people can drive and every one of them thinks he's a Formula One driver and every drive is a race!
Off the subject a bit but one of the things that bothers me the most about our system is that any 17 year old guy can go down to the local dealer and if he has the cash can buy a 'Busa even if he's never even had a license and then go out and kill himself and possibly somebody else. Makes no sense.
Marc
What about a multimeter-it has all the capabilities of an ammeter, voltmeter, etc right? What is the 13 volt benchmark? Just a generally accepted nymber but obviously there is reasoning behind it, right?Sorry, I thought you were making a statement. The best way to determine if the load you've added is overtaxing the charging system is to insert an ammeter in line between the positive terminal of the battery and the red wire. With all the accessories turned on and the bike running you want to see the ammeter showing a positive value when you rev the motor a bit. As long as its showing positive the system can handle the load. If it goes negative with the engine revved up the battery will eventually lose its charge. You can also do it with a voltmeter hooked up to the battery looking for 13.1 volts or more with the bike running and all the accessories turned on. Using a voltmeter is not as accurate as using an actual ammeter. The R3's charging system as an example can handle my Gerbings jacket drawing 30 watts as long as I leave the headlight on low. If I run it with the high beam on all the time it will discharge and eventually run the battery down. The size of the battery doesn't have much to do with it. If the charging system is at discharge, the battery will eventually run down, a larger capacity battery will simply take longer.
As for the aesthetics, there are a number of suppliers who specialize in exactly that and supply very nice looking accessory lights in various strengths and designs. In any case I wasn't suggesting adding extra lights, I was just saying that adding extra lights in order to make a triangle effect seems to be a very good way to make the bike more conspicuous. Some guys add extra lights to all their bikes but I never have. Again, I apologize for jumping on you.
Marc
A fully charged battery should have 12.6 volts with the key off. With the bike running it will usually show about 13.1 volts or more while charging. Less than that and you can assume it is discharging. You can use a multimeter as long as it is rated to handle about 3 amps or so. An ammeter is way more accurate than a voltmeter but there is a trick. Most commercial ammeters have a capacity way lower than the load generated when the starter motor is starting the bike. If you ran that load through your ammeter you'll either blow its fuse if it has one or just fry it. Here is how you do it: disconnect the positive lead from the battery and clip one lead from the ammeter to the battery terminal and the other to the red wire. Switch on the bike but don't start it. The reading should go negative. If it doesn't then swap the leads. When you go to start the bike hold the red wire firmly against the battery terminal so the current flows directly from the battery to the wire without going through your ammeter. Once it starts move the red wire away from the battery terminal so the current flows through your ammeter. Turn on your accessories and slight rev the engine. The ammeter needs to read positive. If it reads negative when you're revving it then the load is too much and the charging system can't keep up. Try it with the high beam off and on and you can see how much difference that makes.What about a multimeter-it has all the capabilities of an ammeter, voltmeter, etc right? What is the 13 volt benchmark? Just a generally accepted nymber but obviously there is reasoning behind it, right?
I wonder if anyone has attached the battery powered blinking reflector lights to their bike as they do for bicycles.Maaybe we should all attach headlamps to our helmets while we ride.
I am definitely getting some H7 LED headlights ASAP. Thinking of getting some reflective tape and putting small and visible but inconspicuous pieces of reflective tape on my armor vest.
Wow, thanks Marc, that is some good info. Did you go to school for Electrical Engineering or what!A fully charged battery should have 12.6 volts with the key off. With the bike running it will usually show about 13.1 volts or more while charging. Less than that and you can assume it is discharging. You can use a multimeter as long as it is rated to handle about 3 amps or so. An ammeter is way more accurate than a voltmeter but there is a trick. Most commercial ammeters have a capacity way lower than the load generated when the starter motor is starting the bike. If you ran that load through your ammeter you'll either blow its fuse if it has one or just fry it. Here is how you do it: disconnect the positive lead from the battery and clip one lead from the ammeter to the battery terminal and the other to the red wire. Switch on the bike but don't start it. The reading should go negative. If it doesn't then swap the leads. When you go to start the bike hold the red wire firmly against the battery terminal so the current flows directly from the battery to the wire without going through your ammeter. Once it starts move the red wire away from the battery terminal so the current flows through your ammeter. Turn on your accessories and slight rev the engine. The ammeter needs to read positive. If it reads negative when you're revving it then the load is too much and the charging system can't keep up. Try it with the high beam off and on and you can see how much difference that makes.
Marc