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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
You sir, are a steely eyed missile man! Now can you come up with a way to install 4 way hazard lights too? :D
Well, OK! Since you asked!!


This is an addition to the thread http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/713-...-turn-indicators-into-running-lights-too.html Please refer back to to that thread to see the entire schematic showing the running lights modifications to the front LED circuits.

I looked into the wiring schematic and thought to myself, it can't possibly be this easy. No additional relays, just a waterproof switch and some wire.

Basically, I jumpered the switched +12V from either rear signal across to the other side with a switch to break the jumper for normal operation. If I need 4-Ways, I turn the left or right signal indicator switch and close the panel mounted switch. This places power to the other side no matter which way you slide the handlebar switch.

I made this modification to my bike that has all four OEM indicators replaced with LED's and the TST Industries Gen 2 Flasher Relay. Refer to my other thread http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/713-...-turn-indicators-into-running-lights-too.html

Here is a video clip of of all the functions:

https://youtu.be/4yBAA69mwsU

Jumpers & Switch schematic added to the rear.



The switch I picked up at AutoZone for $9 & change.



Good luck!

Ride Safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a question - since I ordered the LED Blinker Plus setup, they have inline resistors designed to work with the stock flasher. I think they also have the running light built in because there are three wires (I think). Would I still be able to do this setup? I don't see why not but just wanted to get your opinion.
Can you post links to the LED Blinker Plus setup you purchased? I am not familiar with them. Are the fronts and rears the same part number?
 

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Can you post links to the LED Blinker Plus setup you purchased? I am not familiar with them. Are the fronts and rears the same part number?
No, part numbers are slightly different. I ordered mine from ATV Parts UK I think.

Front:
http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/acces...ash=#/explore/363270/0|363331|YZF-R320|2015/|

Rear:
http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/acces...explore/363270/0|363331|YZF-R320|2015/|533551

R3 specific thread:
http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/554-electronics/80610-yamaha-led-blinker-plus-indicators.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Those look very nice. There is some extra functionality with those, they have running lights in front/back as well as brake lights in the back. The wiring will be different than mine as you will have to tap into the brake light wires to power rear running and brake (not a big deal).

My gut says that with the supplied resistors, everything should work just fine with the OEM relay but with any custom install sometimes issues arise. If you have any questions during your install, send me a message and I will be glad to help.
 

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Apparently there is a splitter to add the running light functionality in the front and for the brake lights in the back. I'm really stoked to get these because it satisfies my requirements of having running lights and as a bonus it gives me extra functionality as well.

I have another question for you. You said that you just added the jumper across the +12v in the rear - so this might be a stupid question but how does it power all four then? Is it just because they are all hooked up through the bike already and it just flashes them through the switch? I'm trying to understand it in my head - would be easier to actually see it in person.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You said that you just added the jumper across the +12v in the rear - so this might be a stupid question but how does it power all four then? Is it just because they are all hooked up through the bike already and it just flashes them through the switch?
Exactly. The front left and rear left are on the same circuit. The front right and the rear right are on the same circuit. Both left and right sides are isolated from each other. By crossing over the +12V from one side to the other, all 4 are now fed by the energized sides power. The added switch keeps each side isolated for normal left/right operation and then when closed, feeds both left and right sides simultaneously.
 

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Hi there so I've got my LED Blinker Plus setup all done now and I'm going to do this mod next. Just have one question - in your diagram above, you noted the ground to be connected to the frame. Could I just tap it into a ground wire? In your diagram, the red wire. I used the TST adaptors and everything works perfectly - just like stock with running lights and turn signals so I haven't needed to do any changes (other than adding the actual lights). The resistors don't seem to help with the rapid flashing though so I have a TST flasher on the way.
 

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Hi there so I've got my LED Blinker Plus setup all done now and I'm going to do this mod next. Just have one question - in your diagram above, you noted the ground to be connected to the frame. Could I just tap it into a ground wire? In your diagram, the red wire. I used the TST adaptors and everything works perfectly - just like stock with running lights and turn signals so I haven't needed to do any changes (other than adding the actual lights). The resistors don't seem to help with the rapid flashing though so I have a TST flasher on the way.
In theory, yes. Any wire that leads to frame ground or the negative pole on the battery should suffice. Good that you have ordered the TST flasher, load resistors may create heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hi there so I've got my LED Blinker Plus setup all done now and I'm going to do this mod next. Just have one question - in your diagram above, you noted the ground to be connected to the frame. Could I just tap it into a ground wire?
You sure can (tap into a ground wire). I found it easier to just use a ring terminal under one of the tail tidy nuts.



I made my hazard light modification under the seat to the rear wires. I ran three wires from under the seat up to the switch location. I just took two wires of the same color and a single wire for ground. I twisted them with a hand drill by placing the three wires in a bench vise, and the other end in the drill. I connected the single color to the switch (for ground to power the LED in the switch... The switch gets its LED power from the flasher relay hence the reason it flashes in sync with the 4-ways) and the other two same colors for the hazard jumper. I just zip tied them along the routing of other cables along the left side behind the panels and behind the frame. I then tapped into the rears to make the switched jumper.

I also installed a 3 pin connector www.amazon.com/dp/B00VZOHVSE close to the new switch so that if I remove the panel where the new switch is, I can just unplug it and set the panel aside.



The resistors don't seem to help with the rapid flashing though so I have a TST flasher on the way.
The resistors in my diagram ONLY make the running light work (less than full bright). They do not help with the flash rate. That's why in my posts, I highly recommended to use the TST relay.

I used the TST adaptors and everything works perfectly - just like stock with running lights and turn signals so I haven't needed to do any changes (other than adding the actual lights).
Glad to see that this setup is working well for you! Ride Safe and enjoy the new setup!
 
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