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Can someone post a video/tutorial of them changing the oil and oil filter on their R3

Title says it all, I know it shows you how in the owners manual but im a very visual person when it comes to things like this and id love a full video explaining it on top of the instructions in the manual.
 

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i would assume you just yank the belly pan and then the drain plug, have they not included a diagram in the booklet?
 

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Just finished changing my oil and filter. You will need a 12mm wrench for the oil drain plug and a strap to take off the oil filter. I have no idea why they are so tight from the factory. Pretty straight forward, warm up the bike so the oil will drain good, set a pan to catch the oil from the engine, drain it and then put the strap on the oil filter and loosen it. replace the drain plug, put a little oil on the rubber gasket on your filter and screw it on, but don't use the strap to tighten, just hand tight is enough. When I did mine I used a Mobil 1 oil filter, which is a bit longer than the stock filter. I put 2 quarts in, fired it up and let it run for a bit, killed it and then checked the oil level. Mine didn't show in the glass. I added oil to bring it to the middle of the glass or to the top of the fill line. In all, 2 1/2 qts using the longer oil filter.
 

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Yup. That's pretty much it. Lots of little pointers around to make it the best oil change might include changing the crush washer, moving the bike from side to side as it's draining oil to get more of the old oil out, don't over-tighten the oil bolt or you can strip the threads on the crankcase. You don't have to remove any fairings to get to the oil filter either which is very nice. The oil bolt faces forward and is the only thing down there that's 12 mm. It's just below and to the left of the oil filter and (hot) tail pipe. You will have to lie down to get to it...from the right side of the bike. Socket wrench with a 12 mm socket or any 12 mm wrench will do. Strap wrenches seem to be the best bet for removing the stuck-on-tight filter. That will be your only hard part. You might try loosening the filter before you warm up the bike or drain the oil, to make sure you can get it off. Then just hand tighten it, go for a ride to get the oil temp up so you won't be trying to remove the oil filter with hot pipes and engine. You don't need no stinking video. LOL
 

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Thanks for the tips and pointers, all!
 

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Oil filter wrench

A 65mm filter wrench is what fits the filter. You probably won't see your R3 listed in the store's listing, but this wrench may have a label that says "Honda / Toyota" - it also has the size (65)stamped on the inside. I got mine at one of the big chain auto parts stores for a few dollars. It has an opening for a 3/8" ratchet.
 

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There's a lot of debate on how to break in a bike, what brand oil to use, what weight, mineral, semi-synthetic or full synthetic, but the one thing that's not debatable is changing your oil and filter often will guarantee a happier and longer-lived engine. It's easy and relatively cheap, so read on.

Tools & Supplies Required:
Gloves (seriously, these are necessary, cancer sucks)
12 mm socket
17 mm socket (if using a K&N filter)
4 mm Allen
Oil filter wrench or Phillips screwdrivers
Oil catch pan
Drain plug crush washer
2.5 qts of oil
Funnel
Oil filter
Torque wrench

First off, I like to do all my work on a rear stand. It's not totally necessary, but it's more stable and I prefer the bike to be upright. It's especially nice for this job since the oil drains easier.

You can actually do this without taking off any fairings, but I find the work area a little cramped. Taking off the left fairing only adds about 10 minutes to the job and gives you a lot more room to work with.

Start with the trim piece under the seat. The 2 bolts come out, then it pulls out of a rubber grommet.


Move on to the lower fairing, where 3 bolts come out.


The Japanese love to fit fairings together with hooks and tabs, so be careful not to break them when you're pulling off the lower. Start with the upper portion of the fairing by pulling down and away out of the hook.

The hook goes into the slot on the bottom.


Move to the front, lower portion of the fairing and there are tabs held in slots. You need to pull the fairing down into the wider portion of the slots, then the whole thing can slide back and out.


This is what you're left with.


This is the drain bolt.


If the engine is cold, run it until it's at 3 bars on the dash. Put the catch pan under the bike and loosen the bolt with your 12 mm socket. This is probably where you'll want to put gloves on since nobody likes getting burned by hot oil and/or skin cancer.


You can use a filter wrench to take the filter off, but they tend to round off on me and this filter was especially tight from the factory, so I hammered a Phillilps through the whole thing to get more purchase. As long as you only stab the end of the filter as in the photo, you'll only puncture the filter and nothing vital on the bike.


Let everything drain for a few minutes, rock the bike back and forth a little, and let it drain a bit more.

When it's done, remove the washer from the drain plug and put a new one on.


Thread in the drain plug and torque to 20 nm. That's not very much, so it's important you don't over-torque and strip the threads.

I like K&N filters because they have a 17mm nut on the end that's drilled for safety wire. I used a KN204, which is a little shorter than OEM, but a KN148 also fits, it's just a little longer. Dip your (gloved) finger in new oil and rub some on the filter's O-ring.


Pour some oil in the filter, filling it about halfway, and spin it onto the bike. Get it as tight as you can by hand, then give it maybe 1/16 of a turn with the wrench to snug it up. It doesn't need to be super tight.

The filler cap is on the other side of the bike. Go ahead and dump in the first quart, but watch closely as you're pouring in the second not to over-fill, just in case all the old oil didn't drain out. When you see oil in the window, put the filler cap back on and run the bike for a minute or two to let the oil circulate. Check it again off the stand but upright and fill as necessary. Mine took a little over 2 qts.



Fairing installation is the reverse of removal. They're pretty flexible but be gentle with the tabs. For the lower fairing, the longer bolt goes on the bottom right by the kickstand.

Reset your oil interval by going to the trip meter before the odometer. Hold reset until it blinks, let go, then hold again until it zeroes out. Job's done!
 

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change oil + filter, takes 2.45L

dealer gave me a longer filter than original, and it takes 2.45L to fill up.

new oil filter no. is 5GH-13440-30
old filter is 1WD-E3440-00

can someone confirm the part no. for us oil filter?
 

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I suspect they din't have the correct filter in stock (amazing how many dealerships still don't have R3 maintenance items in stock...) and just made do with what they had that "would work". I bought a new filter when I bought the service manual (which I ended up sending you). That was 2 weeks before I even had my bike.
 

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yea, i bought it from a dealer branch which does not stock yamaha, it has other branch which stock one, and it was a filter recommended after calling yamaha. yamaha haven't even send a part diagram yet.
 

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There is nothing special about the filter for the bike. As long as the threads in the middle are right and the o ring is the right diameter it will work. How deep the filter is doesn't matter.
 

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I didnt check o-ring fitment, but i compare the diameter and it is the same, and it is threading in. Actually the filter i had was superceded to a shorter one, as long as the original.
 

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Thanks for the guide!

Can we buy a new washer on Amazon, or is this something we have to buy from the dealership? I've done probably 20 oil changes before and never changed a washer. My car was previously owned by a Boeing Engineer and he custom fabricated a magnetic drain bolt with a washer built in!
 

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I've noticed most drain bolts on cars have washers that don't really "crush," so they're generally reusable for multiple changes.

Most bikes I've worked on have stepped washers that crush outwardly for a better seal and so the torque value doesn't need to be as high, so I've always bought a new one from my dealer for every change.

If you can find one on Amazon with the same specs, I don't see why that would be a problem. The OEM washer is a rip-off for sure.
 

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Copper and aluminum crush washers are subject to work hardening. First time you use them, they have been annealed and are nice and soft, thus promoting a good seal. Second time, not so much - and so on until they really don't do much at all. Crush washers are cheap in bulk - just buy some, you cheap bastid.

I use copper when I can - because I'm a cheap bastid. A quick pass under a torch to re-anneal it, clean up with sandpaper and (almost) good as new. We're talking oil drain here - always use new crush washers for banjos and safety critical parts.
 

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What size do I need? Can you post a link on amazon or something. I went to the dealer yesterday to pick up my buddies Ninja 300 for him and asked for an R3 filter and washer, they had the filter but only had a part number for the washer. Parts dept. at Apex asked me to bring my crush washer in so they could see the size. Hah, not driving 80 miles round trip for those jokers.
 

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This topic has me SO stressed out now!!! Due to the cost, coupled with the hassle, I'm just gonna SELL my R3 when it comes time to change that darned oil drain crush washer. See? Problem fixed. Doesn't matter what size that silly washer is. :)
 

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This topic has me SO stressed out now!!! Due to the cost, coupled with the hassle, I'm just gonna SELL my R3 when it comes time to change that darned oil drain crush washer. See? Problem fixed. Doesn't matter what size that silly washer is. :)
So, a new motorcycle every 3,000 to 4,000 miles? That sounds just about right.
 
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