i would assume you just yank the belly pan and then the drain plug, have they not included a diagram in the booklet?
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
13
There's a lot of debate on how to break in a bike, what brand oil to use, what weight, mineral, semi-synthetic or full synthetic, but the one thing that's not debatable is changing your oil and filter often will guarantee a happier and longer-lived engine. It's easy and relatively cheap, so read on.
Tools & Supplies Required:
Gloves (seriously, these are necessary, cancer sucks)
12 mm socket
17 mm socket (if using a K&N filter)
4 mm Allen
Oil filter wrench or Phillips screwdrivers
Oil catch pan
Drain plug crush washer
2.5 qts of oil
Funnel
Oil filter
Torque wrench
First off, I like to do all my work on a rear stand. It's not totally necessary, but it's more stable and I prefer the bike to be upright. It's especially nice for this job since the oil drains easier.
You can actually do this without taking off any fairings, but I find the work area a little cramped. Taking off the left fairing only adds about 10 minutes to the job and gives you a lot more room to work with.
Start with the trim piece under the seat. The 2 bolts come out, then it pulls out of a rubber grommet.
Move on to the lower fairing, where 3 bolts come out.
The Japanese love to fit fairings together with hooks and tabs, so be careful not to break them when you're pulling off the lower. Start with the upper portion of the fairing by pulling down and away out of the hook.
The hook goes into the slot on the bottom.
Move to the front, lower portion of the fairing and there are tabs held in slots. You need to pull the fairing down into the wider portion of the slots, then the whole thing can slide back and out.
This is what you're left with.
This is the drain bolt.
If the engine is cold, run it until it's at 3 bars on the dash. Put the catch pan under the bike and loosen the bolt with your 12 mm socket. This is probably where you'll want to put gloves on since nobody likes getting burned by hot oil and/or skin cancer.
You can use a filter wrench to take the filter off, but they tend to round off on me and this filter was especially tight from the factory, so I hammered a Phillilps through the whole thing to get more purchase. As long as you only stab the end of the filter as in the photo, you'll only puncture the filter and nothing vital on the bike.
Let everything drain for a few minutes, rock the bike back and forth a little, and let it drain a bit more.
When it's done, remove the washer from the drain plug and put a new one on.
Thread in the drain plug and torque to 20 nm. That's not very much, so it's important you don't over-torque and strip the threads.
I like K&N filters because they have a 17mm nut on the end that's drilled for safety wire. I used a KN204, which is a little shorter than OEM, but a KN148 also fits, it's just a little longer. Dip your (gloved) finger in new oil and rub some on the filter's O-ring.
Pour some oil in the filter, filling it about halfway, and spin it onto the bike. Get it as tight as you can by hand, then give it maybe 1/16 of a turn with the wrench to snug it up. It doesn't need to be super tight.
The filler cap is on the other side of the bike. Go ahead and dump in the first quart, but watch closely as you're pouring in the second not to over-fill, just in case all the old oil didn't drain out. When you see oil in the window, put the filler cap back on and run the bike for a minute or two to let the oil circulate. Check it again off the stand but upright and fill as necessary. Mine took a little over 2 qts.
Fairing installation is the reverse of removal. They're pretty flexible but be gentle with the tabs. For the lower fairing, the longer bolt goes on the bottom right by the kickstand.
Reset your oil interval by going to the trip meter before the odometer. Hold reset until it blinks, let go, then hold again until it zeroes out. Job's done!
Tools & Supplies Required:
Gloves (seriously, these are necessary, cancer sucks)
12 mm socket
17 mm socket (if using a K&N filter)
4 mm Allen
Oil filter wrench or Phillips screwdrivers
Oil catch pan
Drain plug crush washer
2.5 qts of oil
Funnel
Oil filter
Torque wrench
First off, I like to do all my work on a rear stand. It's not totally necessary, but it's more stable and I prefer the bike to be upright. It's especially nice for this job since the oil drains easier.
You can actually do this without taking off any fairings, but I find the work area a little cramped. Taking off the left fairing only adds about 10 minutes to the job and gives you a lot more room to work with.
Start with the trim piece under the seat. The 2 bolts come out, then it pulls out of a rubber grommet.
Move on to the lower fairing, where 3 bolts come out.
The Japanese love to fit fairings together with hooks and tabs, so be careful not to break them when you're pulling off the lower. Start with the upper portion of the fairing by pulling down and away out of the hook.
The hook goes into the slot on the bottom.
Move to the front, lower portion of the fairing and there are tabs held in slots. You need to pull the fairing down into the wider portion of the slots, then the whole thing can slide back and out.
This is what you're left with.
This is the drain bolt.
If the engine is cold, run it until it's at 3 bars on the dash. Put the catch pan under the bike and loosen the bolt with your 12 mm socket. This is probably where you'll want to put gloves on since nobody likes getting burned by hot oil and/or skin cancer.
You can use a filter wrench to take the filter off, but they tend to round off on me and this filter was especially tight from the factory, so I hammered a Phillilps through the whole thing to get more purchase. As long as you only stab the end of the filter as in the photo, you'll only puncture the filter and nothing vital on the bike.
Let everything drain for a few minutes, rock the bike back and forth a little, and let it drain a bit more.
When it's done, remove the washer from the drain plug and put a new one on.
Thread in the drain plug and torque to 20 nm. That's not very much, so it's important you don't over-torque and strip the threads.
I like K&N filters because they have a 17mm nut on the end that's drilled for safety wire. I used a KN204, which is a little shorter than OEM, but a KN148 also fits, it's just a little longer. Dip your (gloved) finger in new oil and rub some on the filter's O-ring.
Pour some oil in the filter, filling it about halfway, and spin it onto the bike. Get it as tight as you can by hand, then give it maybe 1/16 of a turn with the wrench to snug it up. It doesn't need to be super tight.
The filler cap is on the other side of the bike. Go ahead and dump in the first quart, but watch closely as you're pouring in the second not to over-fill, just in case all the old oil didn't drain out. When you see oil in the window, put the filler cap back on and run the bike for a minute or two to let the oil circulate. Check it again off the stand but upright and fill as necessary. Mine took a little over 2 qts.
Fairing installation is the reverse of removal. They're pretty flexible but be gentle with the tabs. For the lower fairing, the longer bolt goes on the bottom right by the kickstand.
Reset your oil interval by going to the trip meter before the odometer. Hold reset until it blinks, let go, then hold again until it zeroes out. Job's done!
This topic has me SO stressed out now!!! Due to the cost, coupled with the hassle, I'm just gonna SELL my R3 when it comes time to change that darned oil drain crush washer. See? Problem fixed. Doesn't matter what size that silly washer is. 
So, a new motorcycle every 3,000 to 4,000 miles? That sounds just about right.This topic has me SO stressed out now!!! Due to the cost, coupled with the hassle, I'm just gonna SELL my R3 when it comes time to change that darned oil drain crush washer. See? Problem fixed. Doesn't matter what size that silly washer is.
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
