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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If your front AUX running light blew out or you want to replace the warm halogen bulb with a cooler temperature LED, keep reading on how to take things apart to replace the bulb. As with anything, do this at your own risk, blah blah blah.

Estimated time: 30 minutes

Tools needed:
Phillips #2 screwdriver
4mm hex key
(Optional) Slotted/Flat-head screwdriver #0, #1 , or #2

Parts needed:
New 194/168/T10 bulb (#'s are interchangeable)

Part 1 (because I'm only limited to 10 attachments :()
  1. TURN YOUR KEY TO THE OFF POSITION; last thing you want to do when you're switching out the bulb is insert it incorrectly and end up shorting the terminals, which can end up as benign as blowing your lighting fuse (still a pain to buy a new replacement), but can sometimes lead to permanently damaging your entire electrical system; only turn the key on when you're confident all connections have been made correctly
  2. From the dash area, locate the outermost screw on each side and use the Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove them (they are circled red in the picture)
    Vehicle Auto part Motor vehicle Motorcycle accessories Motorcycle
  3. On each mirror, either use your fingernail or the small flat-head screwdriver to pop the plastic covers (4) off of the 4mm hex bolts (4); if you are using the flat-head screwdriver, be careful since the plastic covers are somewhat soft, making them easier to damage
  4. Use the 4mm hex key to unscrew the two bolts on each mirror (left and right), and be sure to take off the rubber grommets that seat in-between the mirror base and the front fairing
    Vehicle Vehicle door Bicycle part Automotive exterior Bicycle wheel
    Vehicle Vehicle door Automotive exterior Car Bumper
  5. Remove the black screws (4) securing the windscreen to the front fairing
  6. Starting from the top of each side of the front fairing, pull the fairing towards you to pop the clips out and work your way down the front fairing until all the clips and tabs are popped out; here are a few pictures showing the starting point & direction of motion, clip/tab locations, and holes for the clips/tabs
    Helmet Automotive exterior Personal protective equipment Automotive design Motorcycle helmet
    Vehicle Auto part Engine
    Vehicle Automotive design Personal protective equipment Helmet Automotive exterior
  7. Locate the rubber grommets on the bottom two sides of the windscreen that go through the plastic trim piece underneath, and use your fingers to push them out of the plastic trim piece
  8. Slide the windscreen up and it will pop out of plastic trim piece underneath
    Overview:
    Product Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle
    Close-up shots of each side:
    Auto part Motor vehicle Engine Vehicle Tire
    Auto part Vehicle Bumper Wheel Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Part 2

Part 2
  1. To remove the plastic trim piece that was underneath the windscreen, simply pull it towards you; there is a bit of plastic that goes underneath the dash, which requires some finesse to get it out (highlighted yellow in the picture)
    Overview:
    Automotive exterior Vehicle Helmet Motorcycle accessories Motorcycle fairing
    Tab locations:
    Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Engine Car
    Close-ups of each side (green note is useful for re-installation):
    Motorcycle accessories Auto part Automotive lighting Headlamp Font
    Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Car Helmet
  2. Now you can access the 4 tabs that hold the AUX light cover but pulling slightly on the cover while using your finger to unhook all 4 tabs, but you can use the small flat-head screwdriver here as well
    Location of the 4 tabs:
    Vehicle Automotive exterior Motorcycle accessories Motorcycle fairing Automotive design
    Tabs #1 and #2:
    Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive mirror Auto part
    Tab #3:
    Motor vehicle Vehicle Windshield Car Vehicle door
    Tab #4:
    Vehicle Car Auto part Automotive exterior Automotive design
  3. Pull the cover forward and you're finished
    Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Windshield Headlamp
    Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Headlamp

Note if replacing with LED
Polarity matters for an LED; this means if you try to reverse the terminals for an LED, no light will come out, which is not the case for the common halogen bulb. Thus, make sure to test the LED in the socket before you put everything back together!

If you peek behind the AUX light housing, you will see a tube with two wires running into the area right behind the socket; according to the wiring diagram in the service manual and my experience on my own bike, blue is the positive wire and black is the negative wire. They will lead into the metal terminals you see once you remove the existing bulb from the socket; you can also use this information to help determine the positive side to your LED; I use a permanent marker to mark a negative sign on the LED somewhere so even if I remove the LED from the socket, I can still easily tell which terminal is positive and which one is negative without having to plug it in.

Re-installation
Do everything above in reverse
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Part 3

I decided to swap out my halogen bulb with a 6K color temperature 2 watt 4 LED bulb (link here). While VLEDs were very well known for their aftermarket LED products at least 3 years ago when I was shopping for these things, the only reason I used them now was because I had a bunch of these 194-type LED bulbs from them laying around that were once installed on my previous car. Otherwise, the bulbs you get from Amazon/eBay are probably just as good for a fraction of the price.

I had a few different style of bulbs to choose from: 360° (LEDs firing all around the bulb perimeter as well as the tip), flank (firing from one side only), and forward (firing from the tip only), but I decided to go with the forward firing one because the housing for the AUX light didn't have much reflection on the inside to deflect any light that emits from the perimeter of the bulb. I have a 1 LED forward-firing bulb but opted to install the 4-LED one first to see if it was too much. Here are the results:

Here's how it looks when the bulb is off on an overcast summer day in the mid-afternoon:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Light Automotive exterior

Here's how it looks when the bulb is on; photo time is at most 3 minutes after the first one was taken:
White Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle

Here's how it looks shortly before dusk with the right front running light (LED) for reference; photo time is roughly 3 hours after the first two were taken:
Automotive lighting Vehicle Headlamp Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Same as the 3rd photo, but this time with the right front turn signal on at 100% output:
Headlamp Automotive lighting Automotive tire Light Vehicle

The LED is definitely a lot more noticeably different at night than in the day when comparing to the halogen bulb. Although it looks really bright (partially because of the camera settings compensating for the low light), I don't think they're overly bright on the road with other cars, but I'll see what happens as I run them in longer.
 

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Very nice write up. Thanks.
 

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Ah, you chose a more blue, brighter bulb than the other thread. The LED emiters are in direct view with no diffusion -- might have a friend pass you in a car in the other direction, and verify it's not blinding at night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
very nice write up but man that looks like a lot of work
It's actually not that much to do; I just made the steps overly detailed and included many pictures for people to follow. This is a lot easier than removing all the side fairings.

Ah, you chose a more blue, brighter bulb than the other thread. The LED emiters are in direct view with no diffusion -- might have a friend pass you in a car in the other direction, and verify it's not blinding at night.
Yeah, I'm revisiting this sometime this week to try different LED configurations; more pictures to follow.
 

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Excellent write-up / pictures.

The LED bulb looks too bright. Oncoming cars will not like you.
 

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I did this awhile back using a different write up, but the directions were the exact same. Excellent write up! Thanks for the details - and I would recommend vleds.com as well, great stuff. For this application though, I used some Kolite LED's I had lying around when I did another project on my VW. Bought them on ebay and they are very bright.
 

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Why don't you use another way? On the back of the light, where the wire goes, pull it out and change the new LED? Only take 2min. They are designed to easy change the light.

ITEM 5
 

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Have you used that method before ? I've seen about 2-3 different threads and videos and no one has used that, they always take the front apart


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I'll try to have a look this weekend, I've got my bulb here ready for install. I'm thinking that's going to be tight from the inside. I already know how to take the front apart, been there done that once.
 

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Ok so it's definitely doable but it's a pain in the arse! Took me about 10 minutes .. but I rather that then take the whole front apart ..



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**Extremely Important**

For this amount of work you want to buy the brightest/biggest LED that would fit in the housing. I bought this one: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...19-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/1563/

I have purchased many eBay LEDs and have good and bad experiences. Philips LEDs work extremely well they just are not too bright. The one linked ABSOLUTELY fits and is the BIGGEST/BRIGHTEST LED you can put in this parking/triangle housing. It is $14+shipping for this one bulb but once you see it in action it is absolutely worth the price. Again you will be putting in about an hour to an hour and a half for this job you want your efforts to reflect your outcome.

I am not sponsored by the website, I just want to make sure everyone who does this relatively important mod to get the best outcome. On a side note, on my Ninja 300 which used two parking lights (much more light and more visibility), I had to do the job about 5 times before buying some philips LEDs because I kept using cheap eBay LEDs which kept buring out. And like the R3 it takes about 1-1.5hrs to do the job...
 

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My buddy is an LED guru / addict, and I think that's one of his websites he points me at (the superbrightleds one).
 
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