[HardRacing]

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We just bought a new 2015 R3 last night.
Soon, we will be throwing a ton of parts on it, with Install Videos, write-ups and first hand reviews, feedback....etc....etc.

Most of here at the shop have been racing for a long time. So we all prefer GP/Reverse Shift pattern.

As most of you who have tried GP Shift......... it's hard to ever go back to standard shift pattern.

Your foot can push soo much harder and faster, DOWNWARD, then it can pull your toe upward.

So faster gear shifts are soo much easier, with GP Shift. Less Miss Shifts, and less false neutrals.


First thing we noticed on the R3 was... .. "How can we switch to GP Shift on this, NOW.. ?"

We will be getting Rear sets shortly, but in the meantime we needed to figure out a way to do GP Shift.

After realizing the stock rod wouldn't work, we found a longer rod floating around the shop and after about 5 min. of brain storming, came up with this setup.

Of course, if you are going to road race the R3....... Rear Sets are the way to go.

But, if you are on a shoe string budget..... or just ride on the street, but prefer GP Shift....... This is a good solution.


Yea It's not pretty........ But it works. And works well.

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[R3_808]

Glad you guys are on here! I came from the Grom scene and know how much support you guys have on there. Can't wait for more parts to come!

 

[HardRacing]

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Thanks.

Hope to be the same over here. ;-)

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[Aufitt]

 

[HardRacing]

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LOL.. Or you can make your own Rear Set adapter plates. ;-)


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[Aufitt]

Or you can sponsor a blisteringly fast (and modest) but ageing Aussie racer and really put your products on the map


You have 6mm LH thread die I take it?, or shorten a long rod you had on hand?

 

[HardRacing]

Or you can sponsor a blisteringly fast (and modest) but ageing Aussie racer and really put your products on the map


You have 6mm LH thread die I take it?, or shorten a long rod you had on hand?

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Yea, had a slightly longer then needed rod.

Trimmed the end, and retapped.

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[Norton-Motorsports.com]

Cool sollution, mind if I post your picture and sollution on my blog? I'll leave your credit of course!
cheers!

 

[HardRacing]

Cool sollution, mind if I post your picture and sollution on my blog? I'll leave your credit of course!
cheers!

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Of course. Feel Free.

We posted on public forum to share with everyone.

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[Norton-Motorsports.com]

Thanks! I couldn't come up with a simple solution that I liked so these are the adjustable risers I put together:

 

[sportrider2]

cool

 

[Tintin]

Glad you guys are on here! I came from the Grom scene and know how much support you guys have on there. Can't wait for more parts to come!

Same here!

 

[HardRacing]

Same here!

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Nice.

Just like ours.............. Except BLUE R3 and Black Grom . ;-)

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[Tintin]

Yeah... I've watched all of the videos on different things on the Grom but felt it was time to move on something that had more power behind to get out of the way of something on the interstate in rush hour traffic and could be on the interstate (not just in rush hour stop and go traffic). I did look at the BBK but then I saw people having issues or not watching their temp and then pop the motor. I didn't know how I felt about risking $1,500 or so and risk having to either part it out, buy a new motor, or etc if something happened.

I hope to see a bunch of how to videos once the aftermarket really picks up on the R3 from you guys
Let me know if you need anyone to test something out if you develop something... I really do wish I had the things to do the reverse shift like you guys but I don't have a bunch of extra stuff laying around from other builds/bikes. :-/

 

[HardRacing]

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Yea, the Videos were a big hit on the Grom Forum.

Figuring similar owners for the R3.

We've actually already started a "How To" Video Thread here :

http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/713-...-brakes-suspension-air-filters-much-more.html

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[R3_808]

Yeah... I've watched all of the videos on different things on the Grom but felt it was time to move on something that had more power behind to get out of the way of something on the interstate in rush hour traffic and could be on the interstate (not just in rush hour stop and go traffic). I did look at the BBK but then I saw people having issues or not watching their temp and then pop the motor. I didn't know how I felt about risking $1,500 or so and risk having to either part it out, buy a new motor, or etc if something happened.

I hope to see a bunch of how to videos once the aftermarket really picks up on the R3 from you guys
Let me know if you need anyone to test something out if you develop something... I really do wish I had the things to do the reverse shift like you guys but I don't have a bunch of extra stuff laying around from other builds/bikes. :-/

Exactly why I sold my Grom as well. Didn't think it was worth another 1.5k to bore and not be reliable. I really want to do my bike similar to my Grom but I did spend way too much on it. Patiently waiting for more parts to come out for the R3.

 

[thedrifter12]

.


We just bought a new 2015 R3 last night.
Soon, we will be throwing a ton of parts on it, with Install Videos, write-ups and first hand reviews, feedback....etc....etc.

Most of here at the shop have been racing for a long time. So we all prefer GP/Reverse Shift pattern.

As most of you who have tried GP Shift......... it's hard to ever go back to standard shift pattern.

Your foot can push soo much harder and faster, DOWNWARD, then it can pull your toe upward.

So faster gear shifts are soo much easier, with GP Shift. Less Miss Shifts, and less false neutrals.


First thing we noticed on the R3 was... .. "How can we switch to GP Shift on this, NOW.. ?"

We will be getting Rear sets shortly, but in the meantime we needed to figure out a way to do GP Shift.

After realizing the stock rod wouldn't work, we found a longer rod floating around the shop and after about 5 min. of brain storming, came up with this setup.

Of course, if you are going to road race the R3....... Rear Sets are the way to go.

But, if you are on a shoe string budget..... or just ride on the street, but prefer GP Shift....... This is a good solution.


Yea It's not pretty........ But it works. And works well.

.

Any chance you could give the specs on the shift rod and the ball cups? I really dont want to spend the $ for rearsets. Did you use the ball cups from the stock shifter? What was the length of the rod?

 

[JiiMc]

Any chance you could give the specs on the shift rod and the ball cups? I really dont want to spend the $ for rearsets. Did you use the ball cups from the stock shifter? What was the length of the rod?

Bump. hope this can be answered, looking to switch to gp shifting without having to purchase new rearsets

 

[HardRacing]

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Sorry, guys that setup is long gone.... as we have switched to Rear Sets.

All we did was take a rod, and just bend it till we got it the way we like.

Used Stock Ball Joints.

The rod was about 2" longer then stock to start.

If you use the lever in the photo as a scale, you can get probably a 99% accuracy of each bend.

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[Marius]

For those of you that want to change to GP/Reverse shift but want to keep the original rearsets here is a solution.

I don’t have any intention of converting my bike into a track bike but I do prefer the GP/Reverse shift as it makes more sense to me and have been doing it to all the bikes I have owned in the past.
So when I bought the R3 it was the first thing I had to change on it to suit my riding style. I didn’t want to spend money on new rearsets so I came up with the following solution:

I went to a local engineering company to make up a new pushrod for the R3 as the standard one is too short and hits the bolt on the rearset when you turn the gear link arm at 180 degrees.
The new pushrod has a kink in it to clear the bolt and is also threaded correctly to take both the right hand and left hand threaded ball joints on the ends.
The pictures show how the pushrod clears the bolt from the rearset and it works brilliantly. All the adjustability is kept by the fact that the pushrod is threaded in exactly the same manner as the original.
All I had to do is to remove the old pushrod and of course I had to remove the gear leaver itself from the rearset to make sure the kink sits in the correct place and clears the bolt. Tighten up the lock nuts on the ball joints and all was done.

I had a few extra pushrods made so if anyone is interested in one of these let me know via PM.