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Its best to have the connectors at right angles, 90 degrees. This reduces chances of mis-shift, false neutrals. Let us know how your setup works in the long run.
I do agree, right angles are always the best. However in this case I have not had any issues. Shifts are precise.

I guess the fact that you need to fine adjust the angle at which your gear leaver sits in relation to your ankle is critical. I spent quite a bit of time getting that right as well as the brake side. The stock position of the brake was not right for me and I found myself applying way too much rear brake pressure during stopping. After lowering the brake poisition I could balance the braking better between front and rear.

Anyway I am still clocking some miles on the bike so we will see how it goes. ;)
 

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Anyone ever figure out a way to make or buy a rod to work with Oem rear sets?
Anyone willing to sell a rod?
I figured out a way to make mine, though it requires bending the OEM rod. I also have those cheap eBay rearset brackets that relocate them a bit.

I just found a long bolt that has the same thread (IIRC it's M6x1.0) and a union nut. I cut off the head of the long bolt so I'm left with basically just a extended rod. That way, I can extend the existing rod. Having a lock nut wouldn't hurt either IMO.

After that, it's just a question of bending the stock rod so it clears the rearset. For that, I just put it in a vice and bent it. Trial and error.

I did it this way because it cost me 1.65$ for the bolt and union nut and it's the first time I'm trying GP shift. If I don't like it, I still have the longer rod that came with the eBay rearset brackets to return to standard shift.

I do have to say though, it won't give you the 90 degree angles like OP.
 
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