[HardRacing]

"HOW TO" Videos, Exhaust, FE Kit, PCV, Brakes, Suspension, Air Filters and much more

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Having been a Vertical Scope sponsor on 15 forums over the past 12 + years we have found more and more riders want to do a lot of the work themselves. Specially if it can save them some Labor Costs.
Everyone is trying to stretch their dollar as best they can.

Doing the work themselves not only saves money, but is very rewarding. You learn more about the bike and how it works and functions.


Sometimes they are not familiar with what it required, what tools, or how hard or easy it will be.

So we have started this thread which will contain all our R3 "HOW TO" Videos.
We will constantly be updating it with more and more Videos as we make them in effort to help forum members who are not yet familiar with how to do these changes.

Hope you enjoy and hope it helps.

 

[HardRacing]

Installing a Slip-on Exhaust

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Removing your stock Exhaust Canister, and Installing a Slip-on exhaust.



Key Points:


Shed some weight.
Add a little HP.
Add some flair.
Makes the bike sounds a little nicer.

Super quick and easy. With only a few standard tools needed.

 

[HardRacing]

Installing a Fender Eliminator Kit

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Removing the Rear Fender is pretty straight forward.

Standard Tools, one person job.

Lots of different FE Kits available to suit each riders personal preference.

Installation will vary slightly from brand to brand.

But, overall should be very similar to this video


Key Points:
Shed a little weight
Clean up the looks of your bike

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[HardRacing]

Removing and installing rear shock

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Removing your shock, and Installing a new one.

Fairly easy to do.

Standard Tools
Floor Jack
2nd set of hands makes it a little easier to swap the shock bolts out.


Key Points:
Greatly increase the comfort and rear end feel of your bike
Improved handling
Custom setup spring for your rider weight
Adjustable length ride height (to get more front end feel)
Shed a little weight

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[HardRacing]

Swapping out your AIR Filter - Very quick and easy install upgrade

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Over the past 30+ years, we have installed a lot of air filters on a lot of bikes.
Most of the time, it requires removing the seat, pulling back the tank, or removing it completely (PITA), and then removing the air box lid, just to swap the filter.

The R3 is hands down one of the easiest bikes we have ever had the pleasure of swapping the air filter.
Literally only takes about 4-5 minutes.

And only requires a Phillips head screw driver and (1) allen wrench.

Swapping the air filter to an aftermarket high flow air filter generally results in Increasing the air flow .. which in return adds a little more hp.
And of course with most filters, like BMC.... it's washable, so you pretty much have 1 filter for the life of your bike.
Over time this saves you money, vs. replacing the stock one over and over.

TOOLS:
Phillips head screw driver
Allen Wrench


KEY POINTS:
Increase air flow
Add a little bit of power
Washable Filter, saves you money over time

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[HardRacing]

Dyno Jet PowerCommander V - Installation VIDEO

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Between huge Cat. Converters, and restricted Fuel injection mapping, bikes these days are extremely choked by EPA/Emissions.
A Fuel Controller can help free up the bike to run stronger, smoother, less hesitation.

The Dyno Jet Powercommander PCV allows both FUEL Adjustment as well as Ignition Timing adjustment.

KEY BENEFITS:


1) The PCV offers Both FUEL and Ignition Timing adjustments
2) The PCV offers Rev Limit increase (if you desire)
3) The PCV offers Add-on plug-play quick shifter modules
4) The PCV offers Add-on Autotune Module (Self Mapping)
5) The PCV offers Add-on LCD Display or POD Display
6) Dyno Jet offers a Map database with different combinations of exhaust / Filters, which continues to grow weekly as they get more maps made


The Autotune self mapping is a huge bonus. Not only does it make recommendation to map changes........ it actually applies them LIVE TIME for a true "SELF MAPPING" system.

So it can adapt to subtle changes in the Air Temp, Gas quality, Barometric pressure, Altitude changes....etc..
OR, if you make new modifications to your bike, it will also self adjust.


Installation is approx. 30-45 min.

You can do it by yourself.
It's best to try and do it when your gas tank is closer to empty rather then full, like ours was in the Video.

Simple tools are required.

Pretty easy and straight forward install.
You just want to take your time, and make sure you do it correctly. Best to pause the video at each step.......Do it...... and then go back and continue watching the video.
That way you ensure less chances for making a mistake.

So far after installing the PCV, it's really seemed to clear up the "Rough Start" at Temp.... that a lot of riders have experienced with a bone STOCK setup.

Only time will tell if it's a definite fix.

WATCH INSTALL VIDEO >>

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[R0b0tN1nja_BKNY]

Thanks HardRacing! These videos are so helpful! My deceased brother (R.I.P. Perry) was my de facto mechanic & electronics guy. He was a master car stereo & alarm guy which he did to pay himself through college. But he was also an amazing self-taught car and motorcycle mechanic. He took apart his 1979 Yamaha RD400 fully to learn about it. When I was a teenager he'd make me work on my dirt bikes and scooters, and I learned a lot but this was on carbureted engines and not the more advanced modern and fuel injected engines. And later I learned to work on my Volvo from him too, which were easy cars to work on.

Anyway, without him around, I have been less inclined to work on these more complex bikes even though I am such a sucker from aftermarket parts and a modding *****. My forte is watercooled gaming PCs! But with these videos it is a lot of help. There is so much more complexity to these bikes. My last two bikes were a 1992 Yamaha FZR600 and 2003 Honda CBR600RR. Had the RR the last 10 years & am dropping down to the R3, but the FZR, which I bought in 1995, lasted me until 2005. The FZR was the last bike which I did a lot of work on with his help. The CBR600RR I've kept basically stock. I wished I had learned more from him, because at the time, I was 9 years younger and wanted to hang out with my friends more than learn to do these projects. SMH.

Anyway, I digress. Thanks again. Without these videos, even some of us who've learned some to be beginner level mechanics wouldnt venture into these projects. I've gone though some horror stories myself. Like crushing a torqued down oil filter, dropping a pin in the carburetor, removing all the farrings, and not finding all the clips and screws and grommets to put them back on,...

 

[HardRacing]

Thanks HardRacing! ........

Anyway, I digress. Thanks again. Without these videos, even some of us who've learned some to be beginner level mechanics wouldnt venture into these projects. I've gone though some horror stories myself. Like crushing a torqued down oil filter, dropping a pin in the carburetor, removing all the farrings, and not finding all the clips and screws and grommets to put them back on,...

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Wow.

Thank you for taking the time to write that great post.



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[HardRacing]

Swapping out Your Rear Tail light with an Integrated Version

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In effort to clean up the Rear End of your bike, an Integrated Tail Light is always a nice solution.

We did an install today with the Custom LED Tail Light.

Super quick and easy. With only a few standard tools needed.

Took about 10-15 min


Key Points:

- Shed some weight
- Clean up the Rear of the bike by removing your turn signal Stalks.
- Sleeker look switching to a Clear Lens.
- Brighter lights, and optional Strobe Brake Light increase visibility with drivers coming up from behind.
- Fully Programmable.

++ |

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[HardRacing]

Installing aftermarket rearset foot controls

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If you road race, it's pretty much a given you probably have After Market Rear Sets, for more ground clearance.

But even for street riders, it's nice to have a more aggressive position.
In addition to that, you can also easily switch between Standard and Reverse Shift.

Installation takes about 30-45 min.

Standard Tools.

This kit you will need to swap the Rear Brake Lines, since the stock one is too short.
So be sure to have a small bottle of Brake Fluid handy.


Benefits:
- More ground clearance for cornering
- More aggressive position.
- Lighter weight
- Solid Mount Pegs help support the bike in the event of a tip over, or crash.... less damage to expensive bodywork.

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[HardRacing]

Installing a Arrow Full Exhaust System on your R3

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Installing a full exhaust has always been a quick and easy way to accomplish a lot of things all at once.

KEY POINTS:

- Save Weight
- Increase power
- Increase Torque
- Give the bike a nicer look
- Give the bike a nicer sound
- (which in theory helps cars to hear you better, and maybe not run you off the road)

Normally installing a full system on a sport bike requires removing all the body panels and good amount of work. Surprisingly for the R3, it's really easy. No body panels need to get removed, and every bolt is easy to access.

Only Requires Standard Tools

We found that installing this Arrow Full Exhaust on the Yamaha R3.
reduced the weight by nearly 13 lbs from your R3.
And the Sound is amazing

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[HardRacing]

INSTALLING Dyno Jet AUTOTUNE (Self Mapper) the Yamaha R3

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If you want a Custom map for your PCV, then an Autotune is a great add-on.

Installing an autotune does require getting the 18mm bung welded to your current exhaust. Some Aftermarket exhaust already have it. But, the stock does not.

So, if your current exhaust does NOT have 18mm Threaded bung on it already...... you will need to swing by your local muffler shop or local Welder........ for approx. $20-$25 they will weld the bung on for you.

Just make sure you are specific where you want it mounted. Don't just hand it to them without marking the spot with a sharpie.

Other then that........ install is very quick and easy.
Approx. 5-10 min.

Small Flat head screw driver, and adjustable Wrench is all you need.

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