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Discussion Starter #1
If you're having a shop mount tires for you, bringing them wheels instead of a whole bike will usually save you about 50%. You also need to take them off to change brake discs, sprocket, bearings etc.

Rear wheel:
Tools needed:
22mm socket
19mm socket or wrench
Rear stand
Mallet
Torque wrench

Get the bike up on the rear stand and loosen the 22mm nut while holding the 19mm axle head with your wrench, I find this is easiest while sitting on the floor behind the bike. Once the nut is off, stick your feet under the wheel and give the axle a tap to the left with the mallet. Once it's out, push the wheel forward, take off the chain, then slide the brake caliper out of its rail to the left and up. You shouldn't let the caliper dangle since it's on a rubber hose, so either bungee it or set it to the right of the swingarm. You can put a rag under it if you're worried about scratching anything. The wheel should now easily roll back out of the swingarm


Remove the brake-side spacer and put it in a safe place.


Wiggle the sprocket back and forth until it comes out. Try not to set the wheel down on the brake side unless you have an old tire or something soft to prop it up on. I do it with the wheel upright. There is another spacer in the sprocket carrier, but it doesn't need to come out. Now you're looking at the rubber cush drives.


Remove the cush drives. The wheel is ready for a new tire and there's nothing left that can easily fall out and get lost in your car or at the shop. This is what you should be left with.


While everything is apart, a little extra grease on the axle and some anti-seize on its threads will make removal just as easy in 5,000 miles.

Installation is trickier and I admit it's a bit of a booger on this bike, but it gets a lot easier and faster with practice. Again, I find it easiest sitting on the floor. Install the cush drives, sprocket and spacers and roll the wheel as far into the swingarm as it'll go. The brake caliper is on a bracket with a groove


that needs to slot onto a tab on the inside of the swingarm.


Put it on the tab and make sure the pads are still spread apart.


Lift the wheel with your feet so the disc is between the pads, but keep the wheel forward in the swingarm. Make sure the spacer on each side stays in. There should be plenty of slack in the chain to get it back on the sprocket. Pull the wheel back while making sure the two chain adjusters at the end of the swingarm more or less stay in place. Slide the axle into the left adjuster hole and line it up with the wheel. The right adjuster likes to fall out as in the above pic, but you should have a free hand to keep it in since you're using your feet to hold up the wheel. Once the axle is all the way through, tighten the nut to 57nm while pressing on the right chain adjuster to make sure your alignment hasn't changed. Check chain tension and alignment.

Note: Pit Bull makes a really nice "tire wedge" to use instead of your feet. http://www.pit-bull.com/product/F0102-000.html
 

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Front wheel:
Tools needed:
19mm socket
17mm socket or wrench
Torx size 50
Rear stand
Front stand
Torque wrench

The front has a few more steps than the rear, but it's actually a lot easier since there's no chain and the brake will be out of the way on reassembly.

Put your bike on the rear stand and loosen the front axle a turn or two with the 19mm and 17mm, and loosen the two Torx bolts holding the brake caliper. Never loosen the axle on the front stand, since it can either break the pin on a triple tree stand, or pull the bike off a fork stand.



Always have the bike on a rear stand first, then put it on the front stand.


Take the caliper bolts all the way out and pull the caliper back off of the disc and to the side. Loosen the axle all the way and the 19mm bolt will come out of the left-hand side of the bike. Place your foot or a wedge under the wheel and pull the axle all the way out of the right-hand side of the bike.


Roll the wheel forward and remove the spacers, one on each side.


It's never a good idea to let calipers dangle for very long, especially with rubber brake lines, so put the caliper back in place with the two Torx bolts. No need to crank them down. Don't squeeze the front brake lever!

The wheel is ready for a new tire; leave the brake disc on for balancing.

I usually take this opportunity to make sure the axle is well-greased and I put a dab of anti-seize on the axle threads and caliper bolt threads.

Reassembly is the reverse. Take the caliper off again, put the spacers back in the wheel and roll it between the forks. Lift it up with your foot so the spacers line up with the axle holes in the forks. Slide the axle through and spin the nut on until it seats lightly. Slide the caliper onto the brake disc and thread the bolts in a few turns. Take the bike off the front stand, give the front end a bounce and torque the axle nut to 52nm and the brake caliper bolts to 35nm. Pump the front brake lever before you ride.[/QUOTE]
 

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This is a great write-up for people. Thanks for posting it up. It's stuff like this that is the real value on forums. I'm glad for the tire wedge recommendation as well.
 

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This really helped me out as I am about to purchase better tires for my bike. Keep them DIYs coming please. :)
 

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can you explain on the front wheel what does it mean by "Never loosen the axle on the front stand, since it can either break the pin on a triple tree stand, or pull the bike off a fork stand."?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think he means loosening the bolts a little bit before you lift it up on the front stand.
Exactly. Loosen them while the wheel is still on the ground, then take them out all the way when they're on the stand.
 

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Good write-up, yes, but also covered in the how-to section at R3 Racing.com a couple years ago.
Tire change price dropped from over $300 down to $113 by taking in only the wheels, as opposed to the whole bike. Also gives a good opportunity to handle small detail things like cleaning sprocket and inside swingarm, behind muffler, etc.
 
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