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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying to unscrew my heel guard on the brake side of the bike, it got to the point of where i applied so much torque to the bolt, (using the allen key from the toolkit with extension to get more torque), that the threads of the bolt got broken...

The bolts on the clutch side of the bike, for the heel guard, came of easy.

Is this a common issue? Can the dealer do anything about it?

All tips and tricks are helpful, thanks!
 

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Yup, pretty much standard for the brake side. I was able to break them loose without damage but it was a headache. Clutch side was super easy for me.
 

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I think mine gave me grief too but a t-handle driver should get the job done you can find them at your local bike shop/hardware store

edit: sounds like you may need to drill that sucker out!
 

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Use a ratchet and drive socket allen. Take all the slack out of the handle. Keep steady pressure on the handle. It may take a bit dont turn too hard, give it a second to free up dont just twist the head right out of the bolt. You can tap it with a rubber mallet. You hear cracking and popping as the bolt loosens.

 

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I tried all. L shaped wrench, T handle wrench, ratchet w/allen head, impact driver, torch and co2. The torque on the tightened bolt was much stronger than the bolt material and the hole gave way. But then again, I had read previous complaints and was aware this MIGHT happen. Sometimes it's worse (emotionally) when you hope it doesn't, and then the let down comes anyway. If it had come as an unknown surprise, I would have blamed myself. In this case, I blame Yamaha.
 

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I've been trying to unscrew my heel guard on the brake side of the bike, it got to the point of where i applied so much torque to the bolt, (using the allen key from the toolkit with extension to get more torque), that the threads of the bolt got broken...

The bolts on the clutch side of the bike, for the heel guard, came of easy.

Is this a common issue? Can the dealer do anything about it?

All tips and tricks are helpful, thanks!
So you broke the head off? And the threaded shank is still in the hole? Or, did you round the inside of the hexagon hole?
 

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With some friendly advise I drilled the heads off them. They weren't coming out any other way. I tried t handle and ratchet.
There was not locktite on the threads. Crazy.
 

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With some friendly advise I drilled the heads off them. They weren't coming out any other way. I tried t handle and ratchet.
There was not locktite on the threads. Crazy.
Correct! There was no thread locker found after I drilled them out. Just plain over doing it. I blame Yamaha.
 

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I've just had the same problem with the 3 bolts securing the air filter box cover! Why do they need to be that tight? I had to drill them out. 2 came out via drill and stud extractor, but the least accessible one had to have the head drilled off then I pulled the cover off over the stump. So I have had to order 3 replacement bolts, a filter box cover and seal to replace the damaged ones, total cost £12.18, and still have the problem of how to remove the stump of the third bolt. On the plus side, the K&N filter fit perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So you broke the head off? And the threaded shank is still in the hole? Or, did you round the inside of the hexagon hole?
I meant that i round the inside of the hexagonal hole.
Sorry, english is not my first language.
 

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I meant that i round the inside of the hexagonal hole.
Sorry, english is not my first language.
You will have to remove the whole assembly now. Bleed the brake system and disconnect the hoses. Drill off the head (just the head) from the messed up bolt leaving a portion of the shank behind. You will need this portion later to grab with pliers. You should now be able to remove the heel plate.

Remove the whole assembly off the bike, freeing the brake switch and return spring. you should now have the brake cylinder free from the peg/peddle assembly. Hopefully there is about 10mm (3/8") shank sticking out.

Use wooden blocks to prop the cylinder. Drill straight down from the back side, start with a smaller pilot hole slightly off center, to a depth of where the exposed shank exits the hole on the other side. Did I mention to drill straight? Progressively use the next larger size bit until you barely cut into the threads. Hopefully you drilled straight and didn't go off kilter. This effectively puts a "slice" in the bolt, releasing the torque. This is why I suggested to start slightly off center and progressively working the next size bit. Once you have your slice in the bolt you can use pliers on the exposed shank to remove counter clockwise.
 

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Found a solution, no drilling, no speedouts

I had the same exact problem.

I used the power of youtube.

I saw a guy who used a dremel to create a straight line across the thread. so a massive flat screw driver could get bite.

Well no leverage on the twist?

So I used a bigass hammer, and drove the screw in the counter clockwise direction can use a chisel, or a smaller head screwdriver. Just get enough bite so the force is trying to spin the bolt head
it started to budge.
Then I got both of em off.

Once you break the hold. its simple.

No drilling, no speedouts.

And the head of the screw is pretty robust.

photo album here.
 

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I found a solution that worked for me.

Used a dremel to cut a line across the screw head.
Then used a screwdriver and hammer to drive the screw head counter clockwise and it broke free.

No drilling

head of screw was beefy enough that it didnt snap off
 
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