Keep up the good work, Fang!!
T-ravGot my Moth Racing preload adjusters in the mail today. They look very nice. They don't have the adjustment length that the Sato Racing set has on my ninja 2-fitty, but I suspect they'll work just fine with my Traxxion Dynamics kit. Think these were $38 USD shipped. Sato gets $138, + shipping (think it was @ $10). And they're still not available yet.
I just got these and installed them.Here are some for $19.99 shipped. 5 colors available.
Some fork springs come with new spacer material for you to cut, but really its just PVC you can get at HD or Ace. Some of the more expensive ones come with metal spacers I guess. I always expect to cut spacers if I am doing preload install.They have to much preload, coming out don't buy them unless you plan on chopping your spacers.
Wow, not an accurate representation of preload adjusters. You can't blame adjusters for your unwillingness to also get the correct springs and oil for your weight. You would still want the adjusters to make preload adjustments easier.Yes they are terrible.
Spend the money on emulators, and proper spring/oil combo.
I received the fork adjusters I ordered from eBay today. In case anyone is worried about the fit and the quality, these fit perfectly and are much sturdier than the stock caps.
Installation is about a 20-25 minute job. They don't come with any instructions, not even in Thai. So:
You will need:
6mm allen wrench or hex head socket
22mm socket or adjustable wrench
10mm socket or wrench to adjust the pre-load after installation
FIRST: Remove the load off of the front forks (they will be under pressure!) by lifting using either: a stand and the appropriate triple tree pin for the R3; a motorcycle jack (this is what I used and, once positioned correctly, it was very stable); or a car jack and a block of wood. The front tire should be just off the ground. Make sure the bike is stable before continuing with the install. I can't emphasize this enough!!!!!!!
NOTE: If you use the last method you will definitely want someone to help you hold the bike in position! This is NOT the preferred method but will work if you VERY CAREFULLY position the wood block. Use at your own risk!
1.) Loosen the pinch bolts on the clip-ons with the 6mm allen key/hex head socket
2.) Unscrew the stock fork caps with the 22mm socket (or wrap electric tape around the cap and CAREFULLY use an adjustable wrench). If you're just going to toss the stock caps, or re-cycle the aluminum, ignore the CAREFULLY part.
3.) Remove the O-ring from the stock caps. You will re-use this.
4.) Place the O-ring on the fork adjuster
5.) Spread some anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the adjuster and on the small 1mm lip of the adjuster that contacts the stock spacer inside the fork tube.
6.) Carefully wipe off any anti-seize that you get on the O-ring.
7.) Screw in the adjuster and tighten to 5 foot pounds with a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten it snugly, don't really lay on the muscle, it's aluminum! The pinch bolts keep things from loosening up anyway.
8. Re-tighten the 6mm pinch bolts.
All done! You can carry a 10mm wrench with you to adjust the pre-load during a ride until you achieve the performance of the forks that you're looking for
The range of adjustment is around 5/8"
Sorry, I won't have a chance to test these out until this weekend at the earliest.
eBay seller that has these listed right now in Black, Gold or Silver (contact him to verify color availability) for $39 USD shipped:
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I bought my preload adjusters off Spears Racing and the preload range on that goes from 13mm-33mm. With a starting preload adjustment of 13mm you would want to cut down the spacer tubes inside so youre not stuck with a preload of 13mm no matter what.You didn't mention, but did you shorten the spacer pipes inside? I installed mine last week and feel that I should have shortened the tubes Mabee 1/2-3/4".
I bought my preload adjusters off Spears Racing and the preload range on that goes from 13mm-33mm. With a starting preload adjustment of 13mm you would want to cut down the spacer tubes inside so youre not stuck with a preload of 13mm no matter what.