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I guess we all need to look at it from so so many different perspectives,I have always looked at it from a track day/race bike set up...I have never used them on any of our race bikes,I guess for the sense of not having to go to the tool box to make a change it would be ok...I very seldom make changed to out preload @ the track...once we get the sag set on the bike (for a particular track) and as long as we are not making rear sprocket changes(you need to re sag after that) I will not change.

This bike has damper rods for suspension and oil and a spring....So for comfort on the street you might want to make changes, two up or any other different conditions.

I/we are currently working on a Race/track day set up for the front of the bikes this will be better than the emulators and give you real feel....Will post as soon as we are done with the R&D
 

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Got my Moth Racing preload adjusters in the mail today. They look very nice. They don't have the adjustment length that the Sato Racing set has on my ninja 2-fitty, but I suspect they'll work just fine with my Traxxion Dynamics kit. Think these were $38 USD shipped. Sato gets $138, + shipping (think it was @ $10). And they're still not available yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Got my Moth Racing preload adjusters in the mail today. They look very nice. They don't have the adjustment length that the Sato Racing set has on my ninja 2-fitty, but I suspect they'll work just fine with my Traxxion Dynamics kit. Think these were $38 USD shipped. Sato gets $138, + shipping (think it was @ $10). And they're still not available yet.
T-rav

There is a set of adjuster nuts on eBay right now. 10mm to fit your adjusters. LAST set they have and TRAXXION discontinued making these, none available on their site.

I bought a set from them in blue, should be here today. Shipping to Colorado was $12.00

A bit pricey but it's really hard to find 10mm ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxion-Dynamics-Fork-Preload-Adjuster-Kit-10-mm-Flat-SILVER-/261074042015?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3cc939bc9f&vxp=mtr
 

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Quality varies quite a bit with these - last year (250 production class) we saw some that did not seal well and would leak air - make sure the ones you get have good O-rings around the adjusting rod. One weekend a bunch of guys were running around with soapy water checking theirs - we found a few that leaked BADLY.
 

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I was playing with mine to check adjustment range and I did notice that the o-ring on the adjusting bolt was very tight and squeaky. Obviously assembled dry. I will disassemble mine before install and slather them with Bel-Ray H2Oproof grease. Thanx for the heads-up, Stirz.
 

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I just got these and installed them.
They are 1"(30mm) more then stock when installed all the way out so it might seem like to much preload for anybody lighter then me. (215lbs)
All the way backed out on stock spacers and with these adjusters my sag was perfect! If I want to be able to adjust from stock I would have to trim my spacers. Judging from this I would possibly shave my spacers 1/2"- 3/4" to give me better adjust-ability range. But i'll ride it as is for now and see how it feels over the next few weeks. The stock O-Ring looks larger so I might swap them out.



 

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They have to much preload, coming out don't buy them unless you plan on chopping your spacers.
Some fork springs come with new spacer material for you to cut, but really its just PVC you can get at HD or Ace. Some of the more expensive ones come with metal spacers I guess. I always expect to cut spacers if I am doing preload install.

Another thing to note when you buy some from Ebay, the Orings sometimes come with crap quality. I wont sy anything negative about the cps themselves, I had no problems with them. But I had a prob with a bad O-ring and you could hear air coming out from the top of the fork if you held the front brake down and compressed the forks a few times. Be smooth so you dont make extra noise from gas sloshing around. The company I ordered from was good about getting a replacement set to me free of charge though, so all good.
 

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Hey guys, I got some Pre-load adjusters coming from Spears shortly and had a few questions.

You mentioned you used anti-seize lube on the adjuster threads and the bottom lip where it contacts the spacers, exactly what kind of lube is this?
Stirz mentioned that they might leak air, is there some grease of some sort that I need to apply to the O-ring before screwing it in?
 

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Yes they are terrible.

Spend the money on emulators, and proper spring/oil combo.
Wow, not an accurate representation of preload adjusters. You can't blame adjusters for your unwillingness to also get the correct springs and oil for your weight. You would still want the adjusters to make preload adjustments easier.
 

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I received the fork adjusters I ordered from eBay today. In case anyone is worried about the fit and the quality, these fit perfectly and are much sturdier than the stock caps.

Installation is about a 20-25 minute job. They don't come with any instructions, not even in Thai. So:

You will need:

6mm allen wrench or hex head socket
22mm socket or adjustable wrench
Anti-seize lubricant
10mm socket or wrench to adjust the pre-load after installation

FIRST: Remove the load off of the front forks (they will be under pressure!) by lifting using either: a stand and the appropriate triple tree pin for the R3; a motorcycle jack (this is what I used and, once positioned correctly, it was very stable); or a car jack and a block of wood. The front tire should be just off the ground. Make sure the bike is stable before continuing with the install. I can't emphasize this enough!!!!!!!

NOTE: If you use the last method you will definitely want someone to help you hold the bike in position! This is NOT the preferred method but will work if you VERY CAREFULLY position the wood block. Use at your own risk!

1.) Loosen the pinch bolts on the clip-ons with the 6mm allen key/hex head socket

2.) Unscrew the stock fork caps with the 22mm socket (or wrap electric tape around the cap and CAREFULLY use an adjustable wrench). If you're just going to toss the stock caps, or re-cycle the aluminum, ignore the CAREFULLY part.

3.) Remove the O-ring from the stock caps. You will re-use this.

4.) Place the O-ring on the fork adjuster

5.) Spread some anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the adjuster and on the small 1mm lip of the adjuster that contacts the stock spacer inside the fork tube.

6.) Carefully wipe off any anti-seize that you get on the O-ring.

7.) Screw in the adjuster and tighten to 5 foot pounds with a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten it snugly, don't really lay on the muscle, it's aluminum! The pinch bolts keep things from loosening up anyway.

8. Re-tighten the 6mm pinch bolts.

All done! You can carry a 10mm wrench with you to adjust the pre-load during a ride until you achieve the performance of the forks that you're looking for

The range of adjustment is around 5/8"

Sorry, I won't have a chance to test these out until this weekend at the earliest.

eBay seller that has these listed right now in Black, Gold or Silver (contact him to verify color availability) for $39 USD shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-R3-PRE-LOAD-PRELOAD-ADJUSTERS-/261930751396?hash=item3cfc4a15a4

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You didn't mention, but did you shorten the spacer pipes inside? I installed mine last week and feel that I should have shortened the tubes Mabee 1/2-3/4".
 

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You didn't mention, but did you shorten the spacer pipes inside? I installed mine last week and feel that I should have shortened the tubes Mabee 1/2-3/4".
I bought my preload adjusters off Spears Racing and the preload range on that goes from 13mm-33mm. With a starting preload adjustment of 13mm you would want to cut down the spacer tubes inside so youre not stuck with a preload of 13mm no matter what.
 

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I bought my preload adjusters off Spears Racing and the preload range on that goes from 13mm-33mm. With a starting preload adjustment of 13mm you would want to cut down the spacer tubes inside so youre not stuck with a preload of 13mm no matter what.
Thanks!!
 

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I bought my preload adjusters off Spears Racing and the preload range on that goes from 13mm-33mm. With a starting preload adjustment of 13mm you would want to cut down the spacer tubes inside so youre not stuck with a preload of 13mm no matter what.

My thinking exactly. Thanks again.
 
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