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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all!

Let me start by saying I really like my R3. Due to really bad spring weather I've mostly only been able to commute on the bike so far. I think I've ventured off onto some twisties maybe twice. However, I'm enjoying the tossable nature of the bike and it mostly makes "enough" power.

What I'm trying to decide on are things like adjustable suspension, better rear sets, proper clip ons, more aggressive brakes and maybe a PCV for a little better response.

I knew what I was buying, but I thought I'd be happy with it as just a commuter. At least for a while. However, here I am just months after buying it, trying to decide if I should build it into a real super sport R3 or move on.

Just to be crystal clear, it's not a power consideration at all. If there was a modern 400, four cylinder, super sport bike in the US that's what I'd be all over. To me nothing beats a sub 400 pound bike, making 50ish horsepower with all the big bike hardware on it and a screaming lump.

Has anyone already built this bike into what I'm thinking about? Thoughts? Suggestions? Constructive criticism?

Thanks ahead of time gang!

Giff

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A new 600cc Japanese supersport will be $12000 new and you'll probably still spend $1000 in basic mods. You can make an R3 bad ass with just $2000 in mods (adjustable suspension, sticky tires, ss lines, sintered pads, sprocket and chain kit). It will be able to keep up in tight canyons, technical tracks and you'll have corner speed. If you have extra $2000, then go for a full exhaust, PC V, race filter and a custom map.

I limited myself to $2000 in mods. My R3 is mainly just to have fun in the canyons and 90mph is fast enough for any freeway in So Cal. So far I've spent about $300 in mods. Which is just a slip on exhaust, fender eliminator and sintered front brake pads. The rest of the $1700 will be cheaper (but way better than stock) suspension around $1000, SS lines ($70), RBF600 fluid ($20), S20 EVO tires ($230/set), +2 aluminum sprocket and RK race chain ($150), G2 quick turn throttle ($70), Tech Spec snake skin tank pads ($60). The other $100, I'll probably spend on ASV shorty brake lever when it comes out. I don't like cheap Chinese levers. Not a fan of CRG either. I like the feel and finish of ASV. I had ASV levers on my old Hypermotard 1100.

I honestly don't think +4 HP is worth it for a full exhaust, PC V, race filter and custom map.
 

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I don't know about your personality, but I know mine. Doesn't matter what bike I own, I will always be in that dilemma. There is always aftermarket parts I want to upgrade. I installed plenty of parts on my late 600rr and there were plenty more I wanted for it before I decided to let it go.

If you enjoy tailoring your ride to fit you I would say stick to modifying the r3. If you simply want supersport performance and there is a 600 perfect for you out of the box, then go for that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You guys both make excellent points. I've been giving lots of thought to the expense of either trading the R3 or buying some kind of 600 outright. Even a nice used 600 in the $8-10,000 would be a lot after buying this one in February.

Continuously tinker with vehicles... who me? ????

My wife cringes every time FedEx comes down our street. To say I've modded pretty much every car or bike I've ever owned would be accurate. She had drawn the line at her minivan though. Lol!

I've got to think some more, but setting a budget limit sounds like a good idea. Do you have suspension components in mind yet? I'd like to do full forks when I do the tires and brakes. It looks like there are only a couple offerings on the market and I've not seen much feedback yet on any of them.

Thanks guys!

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I had more fun on the R3 than my 09 zx6r. I haven't tracked the zx6r but have tracked the R3 and if the track is anything like the canyons, the R3 is more fun for me. Dragging knee on the street or track with the R3 is really easy. The bigger 600 seemed like it was fighting me to get passed a certain angle. Same with the previous other 2 650s I owned.

On the flip side, I do very much like he quality of the 600s parts more than the R3. So yeah a modern SS 400 with up to date parts would be awesome.
 

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I invested in the R3 to keep me from prematurely upgrading figured personalizing it to my liking would easily hold my attention longer and i know this bike has alot to teach me i just have to be patient and so far its working not to mention its a great commuter bike so i will def be keeping this one even when i decide to upgrade in about 2 years
 

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I'm looking at the Ohlins front spring kit (FSK 104 Fork Spring and Top Cap Kit) with preload adjusters. That one is only $300 and is just a drop in. No need to drain oil. The rear shock is the expensive one. But I'm looking at the Ohlins YA 467 Double Adjustable rear shock. It has a remote reservoir damper and separate compression, rebound, ride height, and preload adjustments. That's a lot of adjustments for $700. I've had Ohlins on my GSXR and Grom. Great experience with them. But the JRI double adjustments rear shock that Hard Racing has is sick too and only $100 more. I'm not going to race my R3. Maybe a track day once in a while. But suspension is the foundation for anything on wheels. I set aside $1000 just for suspension.

The R3 is a budget bike. It was designed for commuting but even at stock form, I can see the potential. The engine and transmission don't need anything to be a great track or canyon bike. I also only paid $4993 for my R3 last month, so my negotiating skills saved me $1000. LOL. JK it's a left over 2015 so dealers in So Cal just wanted to get rid of inventory.

As for modding my bikes. Honestly I've never spent more than $1000 to mod any of my older bikes except my Honda Grom. I dropped $4000 in it. Full Ohlins on that was cheap though. Only $800. But it also has a full 2Bros S1R, PC V w/ custom map, K&N CAI, Dynojet QS, Driven rearsets, EBC large (lighter) rotor, HH pads, SS lines. I hooked that thing up and it's a blast. So... goodluck with your wife dude. I'm lucky my GF rides too and knows how important suspension on a motorcycle is. LOL
 

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I say save the money $$$ for when you want to purchase a SS
Most people (not everyone, but almost everyone) upgrade to a bigger bike within a couple of years. Some will regret it and always miss the smaller bike but they did end up selling it.
There are upgrades that will make the bike more like a supersport but it will never be the same thing. The more you make the bike like a supersport, the worse it'll be at commuting.
Modding the bike wont get you more money when you do sell it, but I do recommend assessing the cost and benefit of the mods vs the time you expect to own it. e.g. $150 for clipons that will make the next year of ownership more comfortable and the bike more rideable might be worth it, but $1500 for an exhaust, PCV and tune for a couple more ponies might not be worthwhile if you only keep it for 6months
 

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I had more fun on the R3 than my 09 zx6r. I haven't tracked the zx6r but have tracked the R3 and if the track is anything like the canyons, the R3 is more fun for me. Dragging knee on the street or track with the R3 is really easy. The bigger 600 seemed like it was fighting me to get passed a certain angle. Same with the previous other 2 650s I owned.

On the flip side, I do very much like he quality of the 600s parts more than the R3. So yeah a modern SS 400 with up to date parts would be awesome.
Did you drag knee on stock tires and suspension? I haven't build up that confidence level yet LOL
 

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Did you drag knee on stock tires and suspension? I haven't build up that confidence level yet LOL
My R3 suspension remained stock for the whole time I owners it because I knew I would only own it for a few months. I knew I would be stationed overseas and didn't know if I wanted an R3 again out here. Not because I didn't like the R3 but because I wantd to try a 400. I always buy parts I know I can reuse on another bike or that I can resale for minimal loss. Suspension parts hold value rather well.

Yes, I was dragging knee on stock tires and suspension. For reference I weigh around 150-155 in full leathers. Literally after 1 week of R3 ownership I finally got my knee down ( 2 years and maybe 5 months of riding experience). I did it at a closed lot specifically for motorcycle training on base. I was so thrilled I did it many more time that day lol. ~26ish miles per hour in the lot. Stock tires too, which kind of goes against the riders saying that the tires are super bad. While I don't like the tires all that much, I believe if I can drag knee with them, they should be at least good enough for my kind of commuting (-SoCal speeds on the freeway) I changed them out before my track day though. At least one person on the forum has run a track day on stock tires.

@ hory mory: while I believe springs should be one of the first components to be upgraded, if you really want to get the best bang for your bike, get your cartridge kit first then respring, otherwise you may need to buy a different spring set. If you aren't going to get new cartridges then yeah just go ahead and grab that spring kit you mentioned.
 

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At least one person on the forum has run a track day on stock tires.
Yeah, isn't there a video of him crashing at the track on those stock tires? I seem to remember seeing something like that awhile ago.
:|
 

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Yeah, isn't there a video of him crashing at the track on those stock tires? I seem to remember seeing something like that awhile ago.
:|
when your pushing a machine at the track and trying to find the limits there is a chance that you will crash its not like street riding where you wont get near the limits of the machine (if you have a brain anyways) Im sure people have crashed their r3s at the track on rossos and s20 evos as well, Iv tracked my r3 with stock tires and they have met my abilities no problem, the only time I lowsided on them was in wet conditions while I was riding like it was dry (lesson learned)

to the OP if your going to just commute then maybe save for the 600 but I recommend you get out to those twisties more often and even to the track this is where the r3 was meant to be and will show you its true potential
 

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Standard suspension is fine up to B grade pace (I'm a C grade racer with 50-60 track/racing and tuning days under my belt in 5 yrs. and ran 4 secs off the lap record without pushing hard at all on a showroom bike with only radials fitted and bumped the preload to 6/7, moved the pegs and bars, dropped the forks down 6mm to load the front $0)
For me it was only the exhaust scraping hold me back in right handers.


No way I'm ready for 600. but everyone is different,
Test ride them all, buy the one that gives the biggest boner.
Only you can decide,
 

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Standard suspension is fine up to B grade pace (I'm a C grade racer with 50-60 track/racing and tuning days under my belt in 5 yrs. and ran 4 secs off the lap record without pushing hard at all on a showroom bike with only radials fitted and bumped the preload to 6/7)
For me it was only the exhaust scraping hold me back in right handers.


No way I'm ready for 600. but everyone is different,
Test ride them all, buy the one that gives the biggest boner.
Only you can decide,
:laugh:

Truer words were never spoken. It's all about the wood factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
to the OP if your going to just commute then maybe save for the 600 but I recommend you get out to those twisties more often and even to the track this is where the r3 was meant to be and will show you its true potential
No arguments from me, I'd love to do both. A lot. It just comes down to time and money.... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
, moved the pegs and bars, dropped the forks down 6mm to load the front $0)
,
Maybe I'm not understanding. How'd you move the pegs and bars without spending money? Tell me this voodoo of which you speak!!!!!
 

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Maybe I'm not understanding. How'd you move the pegs and bars without spending money? Tell me this voodoo of which you speak!!!!!
No voodoo,
The std bars fit under the top triple, plenty of posts on this forum about it.


Made some plates to put the pegs where I prefer them and some tube to extend and reverse the shift, merely personal preference setup.


 
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