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I don't ride the R3 much in winter because I have three other bigger bikes with better wind protection. But I decided to give the R# some exercise after she ahd sat idle 3 weeks. I hooked up my electric jacket liner with an adapter on the battery tender pigtail and had a nive 70 mile ride in the high 40s. Stopped near home to top of gas and forgot to turn off the liner, it was on low and I forgot I had it on. Only took 3 minutes to top her off but when I tried to start, it did nothing excepy the gauges went blank. With a push from a helpful local I got it fired but the guages were still blank and the speedometer needle would not move. I rode the 5 miles home and after a mile or so the guages came back but the check engine light came on. By the time I got home the light went out and all seemed normal. I put it on the battery tender for a few hours and disconnected. Multimeter said 12.6. I tried to start the next day and NADA, DEAD. It is the original on a 2015 R3 so maybe it was due for replacement but looking at the measlly 7AH rating I'd say it was never intended for powering a heated jacket liner. any recs on a replacement?
 

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I don't ride the R3 much in winter because I have three other bigger bikes with better wind protection. But I decided to give the R# some exercise after she ahd sat idle 3 weeks. I hooked up my electric jacket liner with an adapter on the battery tender pigtail and had a nive 70 mile ride in the high 40s. Stopped near home to top of gas and forgot to turn off the liner, it was on low and I forgot I had it on. Only took 3 minutes to top her off but when I tried to start, it did nothing excepy the gauges went blank. With a push from a helpful local I got it fired but the guages were still blank and the speedometer needle would not move. I rode the 5 miles home and after a mile or so the guages came back but the check engine light came on. By the time I got home the light went out and all seemed normal. I put it on the battery tender for a few hours and disconnected. Multimeter said 12.6. I tried to start the next day and NADA, DEAD. It is the original on a 2015 R3 so maybe it was due for replacement but looking at the measlly 7AH rating I'd say it was never intended for powering a heated jacket liner. any recs on a replacement?
Similiar thing happened to me my after i tried to add an aux fan few months back. heated jacket is the culprit. Doesnt take much to overload the system. Sounds like you got a dead cell and will need a new battery. I recommend duralast.
 

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I don't ride the R3 much in winter because I have three other bigger bikes with better wind protection. But I decided to give the R# some exercise after she ahd sat idle 3 weeks. I hooked up my electric jacket liner with an adapter on the battery tender pigtail and had a nive 70 mile ride in the high 40s. Stopped near home to top of gas and forgot to turn off the liner, it was on low and I forgot I had it on. Only took 3 minutes to top her off but when I tried to start, it did nothing excepy the gauges went blank. With a push from a helpful local I got it fired but the guages were still blank and the speedometer needle would not move. I rode the 5 miles home and after a mile or so the guages came back but the check engine light came on. By the time I got home the light went out and all seemed normal. I put it on the battery tender for a few hours and disconnected. Multimeter said 12.6. I tried to start the next day and NADA, DEAD. It is the original on a 2015 R3 so maybe it was due for replacement but looking at the measlly 7AH rating I'd say it was never intended for powering a heated jacket liner. any recs on a replacement?
All due respect intended.... The R3 electrical system is a "budget-build" at best, and was never even designed to even charge a cellphone (when new). If you got 5 years out of an OEM battery, you are a hero in my eyes!!!! A new battery for the R3 is like $60... Your current 5 year-old battery doesn't owe you a thing at this point. Consider yourself "lucky" it lasted this long :cool:-
 

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I don't ride the R3 much in winter because I have three other bigger bikes with better wind protection. But I decided to give the R# some exercise after she ahd sat idle 3 weeks. I hooked up my electric jacket liner with an adapter on the battery tender pigtail and had a nive 70 mile ride in the high 40s. Stopped near home to top of gas and forgot to turn off the liner, it was on low and I forgot I had it on. Only took 3 minutes to top her off but when I tried to start, it did nothing excepy the gauges went blank. With a push from a helpful local I got it fired but the guages were still blank and the speedometer needle would not move. I rode the 5 miles home and after a mile or so the guages came back but the check engine light came on. By the time I got home the light went out and all seemed normal. I put it on the battery tender for a few hours and disconnected. Multimeter said 12.6. I tried to start the next day and NADA, DEAD. It is the original on a 2015 R3 so maybe it was due for replacement but looking at the measlly 7AH rating I'd say it was never intended for powering a heated jacket liner. any recs on a replacement?
As far as the last question in this post. I always buy batteries from "Batteries + Bulbs". I do so for one reason- they always stand behind their product in the rare case you do have a problem. It sounds like you live in a cold(er) climate? If so, do not be tempted to (upgrade) to one of the smaller Lithium batteries. Cold temperatures are REALLY hard on them. Hope that helps-
 

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On page 43, section 2-10, there are battery specs (listed on 2015-2018 Service Manual).
  • Model: GTZ8V (had 120 CCAs (cold cranking amps))
  • Voltage, capacity: 12 V (volts), 7.0 Ah (amp hours)
  • Specific gravity: 1.350
  • Manufacturer: GS
  • Ten hour rate charging current: 0.70 A (amps)
Every time I search for "GTZ8V" I get results redirecting me to the Yuasa "YTZ8V".

Yuasa
Here's a link to the high-performance AGM Yuasa YTZ8V (there is no longer a GTZ8V)
Here's a link to Yuasa's batteries for the 2016 YZF-R3.

The high-performance AGM by Yuasa features 120 CCAs (cold cranking amps), while the standard AGM by Yuasa features 100 CCAs.

Wtf are CCAs?
CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Generally speaking, it is easier to start an engine in a warm environment than in a cold one. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.
autobatteries.com
BatteriesPlus.com
As far as the last question in this post. I always buy batteries from "Batteries + Bulbs". I do so for one reason- they always stand behind their product in the rare case you do have a problem. It sounds like you live in a cold(er) climate? If so, do not be tempted to (upgrade) to one of the smaller Lithium batteries. Cold temperatures are REALLY hard on them. Hope that helps-
Here's a link to the Yamaha YZF-R3 year selection page on BatteriesPlus.com. Unfortunately, it appears the only available battery under the motorcycle selection form is the CYLA7LBSXTA Extreme AGM (that's not to say you won't find a compatible battery, but you will need to poke around BatteriesPlus.com to find an appropriate match).

Also, the CYLA7LBSXTA Extreme AGM appears to feature only 85 C.C.A. (cold cranking amps), this might be less suitable for cold-weather climates, as compared to the Yuasa High-Performance AGM batteries (linked above).

There are "Yuasa High-Performance AGM" that have 120 CCAs,
but there are also "Yuasa AGM" batteries that have 100 CCAs; choose wisely.


Compatibility features
On BatteriesPlus.com, I am reading this "format" number: 7L-BS, and thought maybe there's something to it.

So I duckduckgo'd 7L-BS and came up with batteries that appear to be a similar form factor as the Yuasa YTZ8V and the CYLA7LBSXTA Extreme AGM. There could be something to this...

If you go this route and you're searching for a deal, just be sure it has the base specs:
  • 120 CCA
  • 12 V
  • 7.0 Ah
  • Format: 7L-BS
  • dimensions: 113mm x 70mm x 130mm (4.44 x 2.76 x 5.12 inches)
Here's an eBay search for "7L-BS sealed".

You must ensure the battery you buy is a sealed unit; this will ensure your battery...won't leak.

Proper battery charging
Refer to the labels on either the tops or fronts of batteries; they will offer suggested charging methods (usually standard or quick charge).

For example, the Yuasa YTZ8V requires
  • Standard: 0.7A x 5~10 (h)
  • Quick: 3.5A x 1 (h)
 

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If you aren't riding it that often or are storing it in cold temps, look into a lithium. They hold a charge MUCH better than lead acid batteries and handle cold temps better as well. The only downside is they can be a bit temperamental if you try to start with them in freezing temps. The recommendation is to turn the ignition on for a few minutes but don't start the bike. This allows it to warm itself up a bit. As a bonus, they are MUCH lighter than lead acid batteries. Do a quick YouTube search for RyanF9's rundown of lithium vs standard.
 

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If you aren't riding it that often or are storing it in cold temps, look into a lithium.
Curious if anyone knows as fact if you can keep a lithium moto battery on a Battery Tender Jr. Plus. I think the charge rate of the Battery Tender Jr. is .75 amps. Or do you need to buy some super duper $125 charger that is made especially for lithium batteries. TIA
 

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Curious if anyone knows as fact if you can keep a lithium moto battery on a Battery Tender Jr. Plus. I think the charge rate of the Battery Tender Jr. is .75 amps. Or do you need to buy some super duper $125 charger that is made especially for lithium batteries. TIA
You need a battery tender specifically designed for lithium batteries, if you try to charge your fancy lithium battery with anything else, be ready for a nice firework. I should add that some chargers offer the possibility to charge both lithium and lead acid batteries but it's relatively uncommon.
 

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Ive had 6 cell lipos blow up on me while using the wrong charger. A giant flame ball as hot as the sun in a second. Lipos are no joke. If you hear it whistle.. Run!
 

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You need a battery tender specifically designed for lithium batteries, if you try to charge your fancy lithium battery with anything else, be ready for a nice firework. I should add that some chargers offer the possibility to charge both lithium and lead acid batteries but it's relatively uncommon.
Yes, 100%. Do not try to use a lead-acid charger on a Li-Ion battery. That being said, a selectable charger can be had for pretty cheap. Battery Tender makes one and I use it on my Li-Ion R3 and my fiance's lead acid CB300F.

EDIT: Tried to link but Amazon is being stupid and sends you to the wrong product. It was like $60 and is Battery Tender brand.
 

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So, in an attempt to hijack this thread, I'll add my current issue. It's somewhat related. So I've got a 2016 R3 and my fiance has a 2015 CB350F. At the end of last season, her battery called it quits. I ended up tossing her battery and plan on putting my battery into her bike. I'd like to replace mine with a Lithium but I'm aware they come without a charge. Unfortunately, my switchable, dual-purpose charger is currently in storage due to an extensive basement remodel. I'm contemplating pulling some charge off her lead acid battery in order to get just enough to be able to turn the R3 over. Then I would just let the alternator charge the battery like normal. Thoughts?
 

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So, in an attempt to hijack this thread, I'll add my current issue. It's somewhat related. So I've got a 2016 R3 and my fiance has a 2015 CB350F. At the end of last season, her battery called it quits. I ended up tossing her battery and plan on putting my battery into her bike. I'd like to replace mine with a Lithium but I'm aware they come without a charge. Unfortunately, my switchable, dual-purpose charger is currently in storage due to an extensive basement remodel. I'm contemplating pulling some charge off her lead acid battery in order to get just enough to be able to turn the R3 over. Then I would just let the alternator charge the battery like normal. Thoughts?
If you care for the lifespan of your alternator I wouldn't do this. Alternator are not designed to recharge a battery but rather maintain a charge.
 

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I agree with Sling on this.. I'm unfamiliar with the initial charging needs of a Lithium battery... But, I'm just not sure the new battery would come up to "full charge" with the bike's charging system.
 
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