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Lets talk engine oil....!

157K views 155 replies 53 participants last post by  kiko 
#1 ·
Just wondering what some of you guys around here run of engine oil in your motorcycles. Lets break it down into different types from brand name to cost effectiveness Mobile 1 vs Castrol ect cost per pint and what you prefer as far as personal preference.

5w-40
10w-40
20w-40
20w-50
 
#2 ·
Yamalube SAE 10w40 for me. I'm sure it's overpriced. I don't know enough about oil to discuss it, so I follow the owners manual.
If I found some Honda SAE 10w40 on sale, I'd probably throw it in there.


I'm the same with 2-stroke oil in my dirtbike. I stay away from the autozone lawnmower/outboard motorboat 2 stroke oil and pay the big bucks at the dealerships for the motocross racing 2-stroke claiming to protect your powervalves. I own a 1990 KDX200 and havnt had a chewed up powervalve yet!
 
#3 ·
Well when it comes to engine oil all oil is the same in terms of it coming from the same base stock. Oil companys like Mobile Castrol and AMS Oil all buy their oil form the same company. Oil is classified by weight first which is identified by the W after 10w-40. 10w is a oils rate of flow in weather conditions close to freezing 32 degress so a 5w-40 oil will flow faster in freezing conditions better then a 10w-40 oil. The number at the end such as 40 in 10w-40 is a oils resistance to heat and thermal break down for example a 10w-30 oil is weaker and will break down burn off alot faaster in hot weather conditions easyier then a 10w-40 which will handle the same hot conditions with ease. If you have any other questions about oil just ask I can suggest somethings to help you save money and even better improve mpg and protection of your engine depending on how and where you ride:)
 
#4 ·
Ignore the recommended brand. They always want you to use theirs... Chart is for people who needs it since we all live in different tropical. People like to use these brand Royal Purple, Shell, and Mobil for mototcycle oil (I personally love redline oil product as I used to drag race.):

 
#5 ·
1- The R3 is water cooled, so temperature wise there's no reason to go with W40. W30 is more than enough.

If the engine oil also lubricates the clutch, you'll have to go with W40. No other way around, unless it's motorcycle W30.

The first letter really depends on ambient temperature.
If you're in FL, where the weather doesn't drop below 75F, 10W40 is good enough.
If you are living in an area where the temps are just above freezing point, 10W40 may make the bike harder to start, or idle when cold.
You should get 5W40, or 5W30 if it has a dry clutch.

There's no clear guide whether it's better to use thinner oil during engine break in, or not.
But one thing is pretty common, around 25-35k miles you should think of getting heavier oils, like 10W40, and 15w40 around 50k miles, not when it's new.


Lower numbers don't necessarily mean lower oil life, or worse lubrication.
It just means for engines running lower operating temperatures.
It also means better suited for lower free play/ tighter tolerances (Aka newer engines).
 
#6 ·
I used Motul full synthetic E-100 10w40 in my GSX-R750 at $16.00 a quart, then saw a deal at Cycle Gear on Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w40 at $10.00 per quart. No noticable difference in performance (street only). I think for street use, there wouldn't be any advantage for the higher priced oil.
 
#9 ·
My .02 .... Oil is Oil.

Whose bottle it comes in is your choice, the high end brands you're paying for marketing and additives that will likely have zero benefit to your engine if you follow the manufactures recommendations for types and duration.

If you stick with the recommended viscosity and API Standard rating for the oil in your engine, unless you're in abnormal operating temperatures (>40 or <-10) thats all the matters.

If you're lazy/cant change it at recommended intervals, use synthetic (longer life before it begins breaking down). Change it and your filter at ALL manufacturer recommended intervals (or sooner if you wish) as well as after being stored for long periods of time and you'll maximize the potential life of your engine.

If your engine has leaks you'll have to change your oil MORE often. Leaks mean your oil is not only escaping the engine but is being contaminated (water, etc getting in) at the same time
 
#10 ·
I'll use Rotella T6 full synthetic starting with my first oil change. I use it in all my bikes. It has the JASO MA rating and while it doesn't have a picture of a motorcycle on the jug, it's the right stuff. $21 a gallon at Walmart, less with rebates and sales. The oil filter looks like the same filter that fits a bunch of different bikes. I have some for my FZ07...Denso 5GH-13440-50 which cross references with the Fram PH6017A and a bunch of other oil filters. The oil plug takes a 12 mm socket so I don't know if my FZ07washers will fit the plug yet since that oil plug takes a 17 mm socket. I've been all through the owner's manual looking for the part no. for the oil filter, but if it's there, I can't find it.
 
#11 ·
Agreed the T6 is the best bang for your buck plus it meets or far exceeds the API and JASO standards for motorcycles! That oil has been my secret for years all of my other buddys spend big bucks on oil that is inferior to Rotella T6 3/4 of a jug is all it takes to do a oil change. Plus since its a 5w-40 oil it has better flow charcteristics then 10w-40 or 15w-40 which in turn frees up more power!
 
#12 ·
I prefer full synthetic because I live in Texas and summers are brutal. The cooling fan works overtime and oil temp stays high, so I want the assurance full synthetic offers against oil breakdown at higher temps.

I haven't changed the oil yet, but will soon. The Yama part # for the oil filter is 1WD-E3440-00-00, but I can't find a cross reference from K&N or Fram for that no., so I'm not sure about the oil filter yet. Pretty sure the same filter that fits the FZ-07 and FZ-09...along with Ninja 300, Ninja 650, Triumph Street Triple R, and a bunch of other bikes will fit it. It looks to be the same size anyway.
 
#13 ·
Same here I live in the high desert in CA with summer temps in the 108+ degree range daliy I feel you. I use Evans waterless collant in all my bikes the Powersports version of Evasns waterless coolant will work wonders check out the link belowit explains it all:D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ
 
#14 · (Edited)
Evans coolant looks like good stuff.

I did my first oil change today and went with Rotella T6 at 175 miles. The oil was plenty dirty. It's an easy procedure although there isn't a lot of room to remove the oil filter with some filter removers. No fairings to remove and oil doesn't drip all over the exhaust. A strap wrench worked best. I have every kind of oil filter wrench known to man and a couple I made myself, but the dang thing was on pretty tight. I usually just go to large channel lock pliers with tight filters, but there was no room. Yes, the filters I mentioned fit fine. I put a Fram filter on until the 600 mile oil change. Only thing is the Fram PH6017A is slightly longer, but there is plenty of room at the front of the filter for any length filter you might want. Even though the oil plug takes a 12 mm socket instead of 17, the threads and the crush washer are the same as with almost any other Yamaha sport bike.
 
#23 ·
Yes, the filters I mentioned fit fine. I put a Fram filter on until the 600 mile oil change. Only thing is the Fram PH6017A is slightly longer, but there is plenty of room at the front of the filter for any length filter you might want.
Check out the bike compatibility chart here:

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH6017A

I haven't been able to source the OEM Yamaha filter. I need to do an oil change this week.
 
#18 ·
I've agree blends are marketing hypes to get the term synthetic on the label since the amount of synthetic oil can be very low in a blend or semi-synthetic. They do the same thing when they put the picture of a motorcycle on a jug of oil and double the price. Still, Rotella T6 is full synthetic. Rotealla T5 is a blend...aka semi-synthetic.
 
#19 ·
Once broken in with Dyno oil "Yamalube or Honda GN4" I may try the full Synthetic Stuff I put into my BMW 1000RR....5w-40...It make that bike shift like butter...very smooth..and yes...With BMW price :|
 
#20 · (Edited)
After break-in I normally use Spectro Platinum 4 Full Synthetic, about $16 U.S. per quart.

In synthetic oils a conventional base stock is refined from crude oil through various hydro-refined/hydro-treated refining processes to separate and/or convert undesirable compounds to yield a suitable finished base stock.

Synthetic oils are not fake - they are still derived from crude oil. However, synthetic engine oils use higher base stocks than conventional oils and go through a synthesis process in which all the molecules are made into the same size for a higher film strength.

A "Full Synthetic" has 100% higher base stocks in it and a "Semi-synthetic" is a blended oil using both conventional and higher base stocks, usually costing around $4.00 U.S. less per quart than full synthetic. Semi-synthetic, or Blended Synthetic (both terms for the same thing) contains no more than 30% synthetic oil.
 
#22 ·
Aprilia bikes come with AGIP 5W40 full synthetic. Not only those bikes, but almost everything Piaggio makes from the Sportcity 50cc scooter to the RSV-4 Factory race bike. Somehow those engines all seem to get broken in. My Prius and Honda Civic both came with full synthetic oil too. I'm old enough to remember when you had to warm up cars for quite a while or they wouldn't even go. Besides fuel injection, I think engines are just made better these days. One does need to be wary of dealer recommendations however. The oil that's recommended is always the oil they make the most money on when you buy it from them. Yamalube, a blend, is probably good oil, but I bet its really cheap when bought in bulk. Also putting synthetic in new cars allows the dealer to offer "free" oil changes in part because they schedule the first oil change for 10,000 miles plus it puts additional space between oil changes if you have a service contract that covers scheduled maintenance. Still, I'm sold on full synthetic oil.
 
#24 ·
I think the OEM Honda filter will fit. (From looking at he bikes that are listed in that link I posted. I have had 16 Hondas and they all used the same filter and those bikes are listed in that link.)

In the past I have used the Mobil One M1-108 or M1-110 filter.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html

Oil Filters that fit most Japanese bikes have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, gasket diameter approximately 2.3 inches, O.D. approximately 2.75 inches, length approximately 2.5 to 3.5 inches.
http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oilfilter.htm
http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycle...ters/Motorcycle%20oil%20filters%20exposed.pdf
 
#28 · (Edited)
I'm sure it is.... I'll look it up later and add it here cause why not. I'll have this forum at my fingertips 24/7, not the manual. :D

And I'm a Rotella guy too. Non syn Wally World stuff. Cheap and good. It used to be the recommended oil for KTM back in the day. Been using it for years on all my bikes and cars, trucks. I was an Amsoil dealer, did the Mobil one thing before that. Seen it all. Cheap fresh oil is find. You have to search high and low to find bad oil in the USA today. I haven't seen any in decades.
 
#34 ·
Oil used in cars will work just fine in motorcycles.
Been doing it for years.
just be careful with the lower weight oils (5w30, 5w20, 0w30, 0w20), as they may cause wet clutch slip.
Anything above 5w30 (like a mix of 5w30 and 10w40), will work fine with motorcycles.
10w40 is a bit on the thick side for motorcycle engines.
If you don't want to pay extra for oil, you can run just fine on car motor oil.
 
#35 · (Edited)
It's irresponsible to tell motorcyclists (particularly those buying their first bike who have no prior experience with them) that Car oil is just fine to run in Motorcycles.

Can you use it in them? Sure.
Should you use it in them? Absolutely NOT!

The two types of oils are NOT the same, even if they are the same viscosity and grade. Presenting Personal Opinion as Fact is always bad but in this case it can lead to accelerated wear, engine damage, or worse.

Passenger Car Motor Oils and Motorcycles: Dangerous When Mixed

"When it comes to questions about motorcycle oils, this is the one consumers ask us the most frequently: “Can I use the same motor oil in my motorcycle as I use in my car?” Seems reasonable right? Both have engines that require lubrication and both passenger car and motorcycle oil share some common grades like 10W-40 and 20W-50. So, what do we tell them? Absolutely not. Why you ask?

The key point of difference can be summed up in two words “common sump,”. Motorcycles typically have one, while passenger cars do not (NOTE: Some BMWs and Moto Guzzis have separate engine and gearbox sumps, and some Ducatis have dry clutches, but all still need the additive package specific to motorcycle oils). So what does this have to do with the fluid? Simple. A common sump indicates that the lubricant needed to protect vital components in a bike’s engine, gearbox and clutch are contained in one place. Since the fluid is stored in one place, it would stand to reason that there is only one fluid. On the other hand, a passenger car has multiple sumps and thus require multiple fluids (transmission fluid, gear oils, etc.) to protect the same vital components. So, critical components for motorcycles are lubricated with a single fluid, while passenger cars require multiple fluids to protect the same components.

Although motorcycle oils and passenger car motor oil are similar in their composition, the additive packages are balanced differently due to the type of performance and protection they must provide. Since motorcycle oils are lubricating three different components with a single fluid, they require a highly engineered additive package to address the unique requirements of each component. A typical passenger car oil only has to provide protection and performance for the engine of which fuel economy and emission system protection are the key priorities. As such, passenger car oils include friction modifying additives which reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. The reduction in friction yields fuel economy improvement. Also, passenger car oil contains lower levels of Phosphorus and Zinc. Both of these ingredients must be controlled to adequately protect the vehicles emission system.

Since a motorcycle is inherently more fuel efficient than a passenger car and fuel economy is not as important to the consumer, motorcycle oils do not require the use of friction modifiers. In fact, friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance. “Wet clutch” simply means that the motorcycle’s clutch is immersed in oil. Should a clutch be immersed in an oil that includes friction modifiers (like a typical passenger car oil), these additives will be absorbed on the clutch plates and as a result, the clutch will start slipping. This will cause a loss of power transfer to the back wheel, overheating as well as increased wear. Motorcycle oils, which do not include friction modifiers, are specially formulated to provide the appropriate level of “grip” to the clutch plates, but still provide the protection needed to ensure proper functioning and years of reliable service to the consumer. In short, friction modifiers are good for passenger car engines but bad for motorcycles.

The other key difference is the level of anti-wear additives used in motorcycle oil versus passenger car oil. Motorcycle oils typically require high levels of anti-wear additives to provide a protective barrier, preventing metal to metal contact in the transmission gears due to the extremely high loads between the gear teeth. Direct contact of the gear teeth can lead to scuffing or scoring of the gear teeth surfaces while vibrations typical of high revving engines promote fatigue induced damage like pitting. Passenger car oils do not need to lubricate the transmission as there is a separate lubricant (automatic transmission fluid) charged with this task (back to the common sump concept). So, a passenger car oil will not have a high enough level of anti-wear additives to lubricate and protect a motorcycle’s gearbox.

In summary, passenger car oils include additives (friction modifiers) that are harmful to motorcycle engine components and don’t include sufficient levels of anti-wear additives that your bike needs to function properly. Formulating a motorcycle engine oil means finding the optimum balance between engine protection, clutch performance and gear protection due to a common sump. Conditions which are not considered when formulating passenger car engine oils. So, when choosing an engine lubricant for your bike, select one that is specially formulated for motorcycles. Your clutch and gearbox will thank you and the reward will be years of reliable service."
 
#37 ·
Bias, What Bias?



Good on ya, T-Rav_12!

I try to stay away from the minefield that contains within its boundaries any discussion about gasoline octane requirements, optimum oil for motorcycles, break in style, etc., but at some point it becomes disturbingly necessary to respond to the tin foil hat-wearing crowd.

It won’t change their minds one bit, but maybe it will help prevent others from getting sucked into their personal agenda-based Black Hole of misinformation, where so-called “Anecdotal Evidence”, that isn’t actually evidence at all, being tainted as it is by personal bias and beliefs, is presented as the Gospel of Randy, et al. (No offense intended to all the Randy’s out there!).

They do, on occasion, provide some small amount of comic relief and entertainment, for which I will be eternally grateful…..
 
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