A shop in the area ended up having a buy 1 get 1 half price Motul sale, so I went with some 7100 10w-40 (two 2L jugs was the perfect amount to reach top line for oil). I needed to make a quick trip to the gas station to mix in some fuel stabilizer and immediately noticed an improvement in performance. Clutch engagement is much more sensitive, gears 1-3 are now butter smooth (used to feel a bit crunchy), and motor vibrations have smoothed out. Motul ftw from here moving forward.
Lets talk engine oil....!
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I heard that it's just re-labelled Castrol oil....LOL
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Can you give me any sort of reason as to why not that isn't because your buddies bike blew up on it?
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Some insight as to why we shouldn't would be great too lol.
Because it's expensive for nothing. On the contrary, give me one good reason to buy the expensive yamalube instead of all the other great oil brands.
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Not sure what prices you're getting, but I'm getting a Yamalube change kit for $35 a box here. I think that's a great deal, considering it comes with the filter as well.
A trip to the local CycleGear for even regular oil + filter will hop near $50.
14 a quart on the Yamaha site for full synthetic. Same price or maybe even a hair cheaper than royal purple. Mobil 1 is 10-13 bucks depending on where I look. Yammie is a bit pricey, but nothing crazy. Definitely a decent option if you are a brand loyal kind of person.
I have to do soon an oil change at 6000km (3730 miles).
Castrol, Motul, Repsol, Yamalube and Bel-Ray is what I have access too. Where I live, temperatures are not too extreme, the average is 64F to 81F. I was thinking that 15W-40/50 is good enough but I'm still unsure about the brand I should use or at least the brands I should avoid.
Castrol, Motul, Repsol, Yamalube and Bel-Ray is what I have access too. Where I live, temperatures are not too extreme, the average is 64F to 81F. I was thinking that 15W-40/50 is good enough but I'm still unsure about the brand I should use or at least the brands I should avoid.
this is why you need to read and understand what the numbers mean on the bottle.
the W number is how the oil handles the cold weather or W means WINTER so a 15W -(then the next no they all are) /16/20/30/40/50/60 so regardless of brands (as long as they are good brands and are FULL SYNTHETIC (another topic I need to talk abt later)
the 15W means it will crank in temps of minus 20 degrees Celsius . the lower you go on the W rating. the more stable at lower temps so a 10W goes to -25 degrees CELSIUS a 5W -30 and a 0 -35 CELSIUS
now the 2nd number SO FORGET ABOUT THE W number now. and focus on the 16/20/30/40/50/60 rating. This has NOTHING TO DO WITH MAX OUTSIDE AMBIENT TEMPS its how well the oil flows through a STANDARDIZED/SIMULATED OIL GALLERY
so a 16 flows fast and thin where as a 40/50/60 is thicker and flows slower. this number is derived from heating the oil to 100 DEGREES CELSIUS and letting it flow through that standardized oil gallery to get that number.
so this number is important for engine specs. if you have an engine with really tight tolerances a thinner oil at temp is needed. your manual for the R3 actually gives you a range in my book I can use a 10W/40 or a 15W50
so follow Yamaha's numbers. and just study what your climate does for MINIMUM TEMPS so if you are in the snow a 10W is necessary -25 degrees C is what -40F ?
next is oil grades
so mineral
semi synthetic
Synthetic (mineral derived)
Full synthetic (PAO/ESTER or blend of both AKA MAN MADE)
The best oil is a PAO/ Ester. you can get PAO on its own (mobil 1) or a complete ESTER (MOTUL) other brands do a mixture of both.
The best oils are the last ones. ALL MAN MADE and has much better heat resistance. last longer. keeps things much cleaner in there
google all the brands you listed and even call them and ask if they do a group 4/5 synthetic
AMsoil, Mobil, MOTUL, Redline, Penrite (australia) all make these
if you want more detail id be happy to help. if you dont under stand id be happy to talk again.
the W number is how the oil handles the cold weather or W means WINTER so a 15W -(then the next no they all are) /16/20/30/40/50/60 so regardless of brands (as long as they are good brands and are FULL SYNTHETIC (another topic I need to talk abt later)
the 15W means it will crank in temps of minus 20 degrees Celsius . the lower you go on the W rating. the more stable at lower temps so a 10W goes to -25 degrees CELSIUS a 5W -30 and a 0 -35 CELSIUS
now the 2nd number SO FORGET ABOUT THE W number now. and focus on the 16/20/30/40/50/60 rating. This has NOTHING TO DO WITH MAX OUTSIDE AMBIENT TEMPS its how well the oil flows through a STANDARDIZED/SIMULATED OIL GALLERY
so a 16 flows fast and thin where as a 40/50/60 is thicker and flows slower. this number is derived from heating the oil to 100 DEGREES CELSIUS and letting it flow through that standardized oil gallery to get that number.
so this number is important for engine specs. if you have an engine with really tight tolerances a thinner oil at temp is needed. your manual for the R3 actually gives you a range in my book I can use a 10W/40 or a 15W50
so follow Yamaha's numbers. and just study what your climate does for MINIMUM TEMPS so if you are in the snow a 10W is necessary -25 degrees C is what -40F ?
next is oil grades
so mineral
semi synthetic
Synthetic (mineral derived)
Full synthetic (PAO/ESTER or blend of both AKA MAN MADE)
The best oil is a PAO/ Ester. you can get PAO on its own (mobil 1) or a complete ESTER (MOTUL) other brands do a mixture of both.
The best oils are the last ones. ALL MAN MADE and has much better heat resistance. last longer. keeps things much cleaner in there
google all the brands you listed and even call them and ask if they do a group 4/5 synthetic
AMsoil, Mobil, MOTUL, Redline, Penrite (australia) all make these
if you want more detail id be happy to help. if you dont under stand id be happy to talk again.
Ok, I have it clear about the numbers and the grades. I will use a 10W/15W-40 Full Synthetic Oil.
I'm just concerned about the brand because there certainly are shitty brands that we should avoid. I've done my own research and the best options seem to be MOTUL and REPSOL.
I'm just concerned about the brand because there certainly are shitty brands that we should avoid. I've done my own research and the best options seem to be MOTUL and REPSOL.
One thing mentioned is that the range doesn't matter, quick note I want to add is that's not necessarily true. Any oil that has a closer range, example 15w30 vs 0w30 will actually:
1) Be more stable at high temps
2) Less likely to break down at high temps
3) Reduce NOACK rating
As long as you choose a good ESTER synthetic the above differences are minor, but if you actually compare TBN/NOACK/flow viscosity numbers from the manufacturer's you'll see the above is almost always true with minor differences.
However the most wear usually occurs at engine start up, while it's true as well that W stands for winter, it's a measure of oil viscosity as well.... The lower the better flow in cold temps, you really don't want a thick oil either that has shitty flow at start up. That causes excessive wear (it's why most cars these days are going 0wxx since the oils are good) so that they are flowing a higher volume of oil during startup.
1) Be more stable at high temps
2) Less likely to break down at high temps
3) Reduce NOACK rating
As long as you choose a good ESTER synthetic the above differences are minor, but if you actually compare TBN/NOACK/flow viscosity numbers from the manufacturer's you'll see the above is almost always true with minor differences.
However the most wear usually occurs at engine start up, while it's true as well that W stands for winter, it's a measure of oil viscosity as well.... The lower the better flow in cold temps, you really don't want a thick oil either that has shitty flow at start up. That causes excessive wear (it's why most cars these days are going 0wxx since the oils are good) so that they are flowing a higher volume of oil during startup.
I dont agree Omega. My father is an oil blender for a reputable oil company
the W rating should be chosen for your climate. no other factors can come into the equation
while it is true that the 15W30 will have less viscosity modifiers over the 0W30. oils in the group 4 or 5 range will have massive resistances to Shear (breakdown)
The engine damage at startup fear mongering is total bollocks. if you have oil that is within its operating range. then it will reach oil pressure the same time as the 0W
nothing should be thought about when buying oil in those grades . except my minimum ambient temperature. And what my engine manual tells me to use for the kinematic viscosity rating (the 2nd no)
the W rating should be chosen for your climate. no other factors can come into the equation
while it is true that the 15W30 will have less viscosity modifiers over the 0W30. oils in the group 4 or 5 range will have massive resistances to Shear (breakdown)
The engine damage at startup fear mongering is total bollocks. if you have oil that is within its operating range. then it will reach oil pressure the same time as the 0W
nothing should be thought about when buying oil in those grades . except my minimum ambient temperature. And what my engine manual tells me to use for the kinematic viscosity rating (the 2nd no)
Motul, Mobil 1 all have PAO/Ester full synthetic. motul has many products that are semi ester blends etc. I would contact motul and ask them for a 100% pao/ester oil and see what they say. as you dont want semi blends. they are junk.
mobil 1 use PAO grp 4 which is fine its a fully synthetic
Amsoil buy base from Mobil and use a pao/ester combination
then little brands like redline etc make them as well. but spoiler. they buy the base from Mobil. 9/10
My point being is that the W rating is still a measure of viscosity, nothing more... There's a reason every car manufacturer in the world is doing what I said... for the reason I said it... It is pretty much fact the most engine wear comes during idling and startup in normal driving conditions.
since when did Idling become an issue LMFAO
Because there's more load on the bearings when the drivetrain is idling vs normal driving, never said it was an "issue" it's tolerable/expected wear but it's more than just driving... This hasn't changed, all manufacturer's recommend limited idling for this reason as well. Anyway we can agree to disagree (big surprise when talking engine wear/oil/break-in nobody agrees lol) but all the mechanical engineers I know aren't incompetent and work for major manufacturer's... Spend some time looking around what I'm talking about and you may be surprised.
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